Top 20 Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

If it sat a year in the garage are you in a climate that freezes in the winter time? There is water left in the lines and the filter after you disconnect the fridge unless you blow it all out, so it could have freezed and expanded and cracked a piece. If freezing is not a possibility then i would get a new filter if you havent already, the o-rings on the filter could have dried out from being in a hot garage in the summer and caused a leak. Its a pretty simple system though, the water line comes in from the back to the filter housing and then from there it goes to the water in the door and the ice maker. Another possibility is a line could have got snagged and pulled on when moving it, so check all the connections under the fridge for the water lines. Put some paper towels down under the fridge and have someone dispense water from the door and watch it with a flashlight and see if you can find the water leak, the paper towels will help by showing where they get wet and give you an area to investigate further.

Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out: 1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker. 2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip). 3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts. 4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube. On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks. How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker. Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up. : God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good! Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1

Yes... There is... Melanie Guillot, and you actually should be seeing a FILTER REMINDER light illuminated on you display panel... The instruction (below) depict the process and problems associated wth a FILTER CHANGE... MAYTAG MSD2756GES User Manual Page 12 Hope this helps Carnac the Magnificent

Sounds like a stopped up defrost drain is the reason for seeing water in freezer. That heater is part of the defrost system and should normally come one every 8-12 hours depending on your models defrost cycle b

start with checking if you have enough refrigerating gas in the system

Totally normal. The condenser sends hot gas through the frame to stop the freezer door freezing to the frame. Check to see if you have a fan behind the condenser grill and make sure its running and clean

Replacing Whirlpool Maytag refrigerator water filter

Disregard the B.Patri answer, it is completely wrong. If your coils have a hole, the machine is ruined already, the compressor contaminated, and the refrigerant long gone...

Are you sure its the water line? It may be an inside filter in the fridge. If its the water line, simply slide fridge out and after turning water off, turn it back on and run into a bucket. It may be filter though, and that's easy to replace in back of fridge.

need to replace the water soleinod valve it's located under around the compressor section usually it's a blue color twin relays one for the water dispenser and one to the ice maker...good luck

Either the micro switch that is activated when you depress the water paddle or the water valve in the back is faulty. You can put a meter on the two wires at the water solenoid and see if the power drops out before the water stops. If so then the valve is bad. If not then the micro switch is still calling for water and may be sticking.

Hello; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. You have an older unit. Some parts are no longer available. There are 3 possible component failures: 1.) Refrigerator Adaptive Defrost Control Board - This has the most probability for your problem. Substitution: 61005988 Cost $78.00 This is located in your fresh food section control housing. You must drop the control housing to access it. 2.) Defrost Heater - This component is located in your freezer section. You must remove the back wall to access the heater. The back wall on your model has slots and screws that are both difficult to remove and more difficult to replace. Even harder is the string the wires up through the cooling coil without cutting your self on the razor sharp fins on the cooling coil. Substitution: 61006199 Cost: $48.00 3.) Refrigerator Evaporator Fan Motor - This too is behind the back freezer wall which is difficult to remove and re-install. Part #: 61005339 Cost: $106.00 Ok, what do we do? A.) If you know someone who is above average mechanically inclined you may decide to replace the components. B.) If I were still working for Sears Homes Services, I would leave you with a bill for about $450.00 or more. Normally a refrigerator should last you 20-30 years. Your unit is old. You are at the point that components have reached there life cycle. You repair this problem, then 6 month to a year another component is going to fail. My I suggest; go into the internet and search for Sears Outlet Store (Scratch and Dent). You can save several hundred dollars and will get a one year warrantee. Go simple. I have a 23 year old Kitchen Aide top freezer. Stay away from Samsung and LG units unless you want trouble. Stay away from bottom or drawer freezers. They are high maintenance. Stay away from units that have either ice makers on the door or ice buckets on the door. When you open the freezer door, warm air from the room will cause block icing. Ice makers and ice buckets belong in the freezer.

if the fridge doesn't go into defrost then there WILL be a problem.. Without defrosting, the fridge will working for up to 1 week before the fresh food section gets warm but there will be a problem for sure. So short answer "no it's not possible". Your problem could be that the relay is ok but the compressor is too hot..in that case the overload protector will prevent the compressor from running and you might here the clicking and buzzing.

That power surge probably burnt out the guse on the circuit board. I suspect you may need a new board unless you know an electricity geek who can replace the fuse. New I would check your warranty. That circuit board might cost $200. plus..

Ensure there's power to the unit. Plug in lamp or something easy to see if the outlet is "hot". If no power, check all circuit breakers.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIHLyOn3Ht0 Check youtube.com for how to videos like the one above. Basically, if your icemaker is not refilling with water, your water valve may be faulty. Pretty much it's either that or a blocked/clogged filter, or the icemaker itself. There are plenty of websites to get replacement parts at a reasonable price. Neither the icemaker or water valve are that difficult to replace.

Water to the ice maker and to the dispenser are turned on and off by a coil on the dual water control valve. Unfortunately these coils cannot remain on for long extended periods of time. If the coils remain on for extended times they heat up and it's very possible that the coil on the water control valve for the dispenser has burned out. I'll get the part number and a description photo for you if you would like. I'm here and available for questions if you need any answers Thank you John Tripp

This is an odd one!The water control valves has separate sets of wiring that travel through the dispenser control board. That gives an opportunity for strange things to happen as mentioned in your post. If you haven't replaced the dual water control valve and put the wires back wrong the next thing will be to test the 61005274 Dispenser Control Board If you have a OHM meter and a voltage testing meter I don't mind helping you to test the wires and 61005274 Dispenser Control Board I can send you to a link to view the wiring diagram and walk you through the diagnostics. Let me know, Thank you, John T Appliance 911 Contact Me Here

Buy a spray can of silicone lubrication and spay the hinges wipe off any over spray rotate the door 3 -4 times also clean door seals thoroughly, repeat if necessary.