Top 20 Toshiba 42HP66 42 in. LCD Television Questions & Answers

If garanty period is available , then you should return it for another.

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The main power supply regulator section circuit fault. Either it will be a separate board, or the part of main board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size. Search the site by type in the "brand name" to your device; [Exclude the model number], in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts.

hi this fault sounds like a bad tab/ribbon fault, at top of the tv are ribbons connector to the screen, when one is faulty the heat makes them flex causing this fault, you can bond the ribbon down with a bit of rubber to stop it flexing, but this not a permanent repair as it is a screen fault. hope it helps regards shaun

Sounds like T'Con fault. Contact any service technician to make it confirm. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Viewing it in "Mosaic" will make surf easy. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Switch to the an input that is not being used. The bars are present, go into the menu and reset the tv to factory settings. If the bars are present it would indicate hardware failure. If the blank bars are not present on the other input, something is going on with the cord, or a setting in your set top box

Main suspects are powersupply (does happen) and the Main board for the set---it does cause this issue a lot.

One of your circut boards in it is shot,

se cablesdry joints or loooossibly the ribbon cables check for

Most likely on the power board---only boards are sold for these sets--if you open it (correctly) look where cord for power goes and look for any bad caps

Other than a possible back light issue:All of this type of sets only sellcircuit boards and no individual parts--some even slip around that and partsare not available.Sound but no brightness is a common issue:Backlight's inside not coming on.Problem from a cable box causing main board to lock up and no brightness results--sometimesunplugging set and box will fix but not always.Almost any circuit board in the set bad--nice one ? The front screen unit or Panel bad--does happen and is fatal.There are a number of different things possible, weigh the cost and age of theset and decide if you want to gamble having a shop look at it.Most who try to repair it themselves guess and buy a board, can get expensiveand is no guarantee you will actually fix the set.

HelloCheck whether the backlights get full brightness as you increase the bright ness level. Set the set to least contrast level, and check whether the backlight is sorking well. If it is OK, then try to increase the contrast level [to at least 70% of the total]. If backlight level cannot be adjusted according to the contrast level the backlight inverter baord and backlight CCFL lamps need to be checked.images of the backlight inverter board and CCFL lamps are attached here.

I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:ISSUES: 1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.2. If no power or standby check main fuse, standby power supply and any signsof damage you can see---burnt parts etc.3. almost all these sets the troubleshooting involves checking voltages on the main power board to narrow down theproblem.4. Be safe and if you do not know what you are doing don't open the set.Answers to issues:1. RE:fuses---if a blown fuse is found get a good replacement(not the genericones like Radio Shack). Many fuses are special even aside from amperage--Don'tput a higher rated amperage fuse in the set for any reason.2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.3. Trouble shooting consists of the above and then at some point you have tobuy and try a board to see if it fixes it or not.4. Safety first--no TV set is worth getting injured or even killed over.

HelloWhat is the problem with your Toshiba TV? What is its model number. Provde me these details please.

HelloThis is the Z sustain baord you want to replace I assumes. There are adjustments must be done after replacing this board. All adjusments and other details are in its repair book, which I've with me, but in PDF format. It is very difficult to send them to you by this window, as it does not allow me to uplod by it. If you want a copy of that repair book, [42HP66], which contains 90pages and come upto 7MB in capaicty. If you are interested, come over me by purchasing one among my Toshiba services published at Fixya. OK.

Hello
First of all, check the power supply board for any damaged [bulged] capacitors in it. If there is such, power supply output voltage will be differet to that it should be. As there is a dull picture with your TV, the power supply section is workng, but if there is any fault capcitors in it, variation to output voltage can be occur. So check it first. If this is found ok, Zsus board should be suspected. If the panel has some trouble with it, that is, if there is any short within the panel, Zsus will get damaged, because high voltage to ionise the gas pixels of the plasma TV is being generated from this board.
Check the power supply board for any bulged or exploded electrolytic capcitors. Then go further, and replace the Zsus board. As there is a dim picture is there , X & Y boards are working well. OK.

Hi Randy,You power supply board has a part no. printed on the white sticker on the board itself. Please check it and then click this LINK to make sure you will get the right board for your unit.Hope I helped you.Have a nice day!Thanks for using Fixya.

Hello,The issue you describe is consistent with a power supply board issue. This is the board where the AC goes to. This problem may have occurred as a result of irregular power supply, or excess power supply or power surge.The TV is receiving current but cannot circulate or transfer the current to other necessary part of the TV because of the defective power supply board. You might be lucky it's just a blow fuse. Also a defective transformer can cause your TV not to power on.All these can be checked on the power supply board.But more often bad capacitors causes problem on the power supply board. I do not think the power board needs replacement, rather those defective capacitors is causing this issue. Open unit up and take a look at the power supply board.You will probably see one or more electrolytic filter capacitors that are bulged up in the top-not perfectly flat like the others.The value of these capacitors will be different, most likely they will be somewhere around-820 to 2200uF/25 V( or /10V sometimes)You can replace them with same values but I would recommend the voltage rating to be higher(like 35V for an original 25V) for reliability purposes.What happens is,these bulged top capacitors will cause a low and unfiltered DC voltage=main board will malfunction(the relay will keep clicking until the caps are holding enough charge to bring the voltage up over a threshold point).You can buy these capacitors at any Fry's or Radioshack store or you can order them online at vendors like "mcmelectronics.com"(look for electrolytic capacitors). After replacing these capacitor(capacitors) most likely the normal operation will be restored. Or you can by a refurbished complete power board to save you some stress.Note: There may be also some other causes for this symptom ,like a defective T con board ,or main board,but the bulged top capacitors are the most common cause for this issue.If you don't know about TV repairers, take the TV to the nearest repairman to fix the fault for you. Also, note that TV stores a lot of current, so wait a while before opening the TV back cover.I hope this helps.Regards.

You need to obtain service manual, at the link below... as they are in many and various places...


http://www.scribd.com/doc/20636302/Toshiba-42hp66-Service-Manual
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go and try to repair you set. But PLEASE, start in the right place, otherwise you will simply waste your time and money, You see, you MUST start, in the right place, The power supply, FIRST, as, if, that isn't right, nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now, also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" and replace them, because someone else had done so and it worked, well that maybe sometimes true, but most Symptoms, can, and do have many, many different "Causes" & also, now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or even, ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Hi, sorry to hear you have a problem, but you see, just changing the capacitors well seldom permanently "Fix" anything for very long. You see, those "Blown Capacitors" were a "SYMPTOM" and are a "RESULT" of some other problem, seldom these days for capacitors fault, Unless, they are overheated. To spontaneously fail. The thing that "Kills" Capacitors, is AC Ripple/Voltage, and Over-voltage. So you see you MUST first find why those conditions exist before you can even begin to replace anything Capacitors included. So as ALWAYS the first place we start is at the Power Supply, now you make sure those voltages are correct. and if they aren't find out what not, and what is causing the problem. Then, in that way you can isolate the fault and fix the cause at the same time. That way it is "Fixed" and not symptomatically treated. Also it is nearly impossible to do anything without a service manual, you MUST try to get one of those, they will also help you identify exactly what is wrong and where to look and what to do.