The temp is controlled by electronics that monitor the oven sensor. The sensor should ohm out at 1100 ohms. If it is shirted to frame or open the open temp would not do right and the oven control would not know what the temp was and would probably declare an F-3 error. In your case I don't think that is the problem. What i think it is going to be is the ignitor. If it is getting weak it sometimes won't draw enough amps to open the safety bimetal inside the gas valve. Probably the ignitor is on it's way out.
If your oven is heating up slowly then you probably have a bad baking element in your oven. This is the bottom element in your oven. By using an ohm meter you can check the resistance of the element. If you get no continuity through the element it is no good. On the other issue that you have, it is likely that the lower ignitor needs to be replaced. The range switches the gas valve on and off because it is not sensing the proper amount of resistance in the ignitor.
F1 touch pad / ERC test
This simple test will help determine whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the touch pad is defective when F1 error code is present.
Note: Some models incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single assembly, in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC (Clock).
Warning: If you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or making this repair, please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.
1. Disconnect power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power off to the range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power to the range has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing. 2. Gain access inside the control panel. 3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from the ERC. 4. Make sure there are no lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short when power is turned back on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was. 5. Turn the power back on. 6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually accompanied by a beeping sound). 7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it does not, replace the touch pad.
ello & Welcome to FixYa This indicates an open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions. Kevin
Lets take a look at yer wirin diagram. You have 4 components in the oven heating circuit. The control, the ignitor, the safety valve, and the sensor. Ignitor has been replaced with no help right? Did you check for continuity of the gas safety valve? If yall have nothing (open circuit) between the two terminals then the valve is bad. Won't no ignitor glow with an open safety valve. Next thing: Sensor: 1100 ohms @room temp. Erratic or open sensor and the oven won't KNOW what the temp is. Finally and I say finally because yall want to replace the most expensive part which is the control last, after yall know for sure it ain't all of the above mentioned components.
It sounds like the igniter. The oven is not getting a spark to turn on, and heat up. We had the same problem, but changed the igniter, and it works fine.
Good luck!
It is rather unusual for an oven these days to have a standing pilot, (and thus the Thermo Couple)
Are you sure yours doesn't have a glowing ignitor to light the gas? Usually there is a separate ignitor and burner for broil, and a separate one for the Main oven burner- Can you see the ignitor glow on one or the other burners?
If the ignitor is broken-- you can not get the burner to light
Switch your gas tape to the near-close level. But don't turn off it at all otherwise you can't burn anything with fire, still on! Just switch...... correctly, i should use the word 'adjust', just adjust the gas tape.
Hi Bunny. Now, about your oven. If you spilled some juice into the oven on Thanksgiving. It will be dried up by now. However the lower burner in your oven should have a shield over it so that juice doesn't get onto the burner. If the oven is now working properly in bake mode, then the same burner will work in self-cleaning as well. Whenever you turn on a gas appliance you will smell an an oder for just a moment. Here is the reason. Gas is odorless naturally. The gas company intentionally puts what is called an "ODORANT" into the gas so that anyone can smell a leak. Sometimes, they put too much oderant in and they get quite a few phone calls about leaks. Of course, when there is a real leak, they can also find out about it and take care of before there is any danger. Your caution in not listening to your son's advice is wise. "Just do it" applies to Nike shoes, and sports. When it comes to safety with regard to natural gas, electricity, or any fuel (like gasoline) "Just do it" can be just fatal. Remind your son of that. I hope I've helped you. If you have any more questions of me, you are very welcome to contact me through this site. Best Regards, Mark
If yall have nothing (open circuit) between the two terminals then the valve is bad. Won't no ignitor glow with an open safety valve. Next thing:
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
