20 Most Recent Maytag MMV5000 Microwave Oven - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, there are only a couple of components that could produce a loud noise from the inside of a microwave oven:

• fan blades breaking (if one is present);
• carousel/turntable motor;
• a capacitor in the power supply section of the main board (most likely).

All of the above are reasonable repairable if you are considering a DIY (do-it-yourself). The greatest challenge is determining which and familiarity with the use of a DV/VOM.

The odor could be the component that produced the sound burning. As stated above, most likely a capacitor. Should this be the case, it would be bulging on top and would have spilled its die-electric materials around (brown paper), you can try component level repair (just replace with same specs) or replace the entire board.

With all said and if you would factor in cost of repair (especially if you are seeking the services of a qualified professional), downtime and the efforts to effect a repair, you may want to re-evaluate your options and considerf a replacement.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

maybe thers something wrong on its heater....go to electronic shop for more info. thanksss

With the symptoms you have, I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier diode or a bad magnetron.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our Web site.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

Also at our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

NOTE: Since it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.

Some manufacturers will send you the magnetron to do it yourself. If nothing else, you can save about $75 for a home visit by taking it to the shop yourself.

To remove it from the wall, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

Whirlpool customer service is here and you can also enter your model number on that page to download your owner's manual, installation instructions, etc..

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This should be a fairly simple procedure. To replace most microwave oven doors, all you have to do is open the door as wide as it will open and then lift straight up. The door will come off the hinge mounting pins and lift off. Install the new door by holding it in the open position and aligning it properly on the hinge pins. NOTE: On some models, you may have to remove the upper trim above the door. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have further questions.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for maybe an hour.

Then please let us know if the hard reset does not fix it.

(It may need work on the controller or keypad)

Be careful, a Microwave can be a death trap. Check outlet to make sure it's live. Could be a failed low voltage transformer. 

Keypad replacement is something most DIYers can handle okay, or for only $39.95 plus parts, we do them for customers nationwide.

If you or someone you know decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I would pop the back of the microwave cover off and check the fuses with a tester make sure that they are not blown. A lot of the time the connections will fry up as well. I have repaired a few microwaves in my time and usually something like that is a very simple fix.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open. Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The problem is almost certainly on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This often can affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

You can download the owner's manual and installation instructions here.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You have a stuck button on the keypad.  With the cost to replace the part I would replace the microwave.  Would appreciate a solved rating for expert advice.

The wiring diagram indicates that there is a cavity lamp switch on this model. It should be under the control panel or somewhere else on the underside of the oven. The noise you describe could indicate trouble with the fan or the magnetron, etc. If you could describe it in more detail we may be able to offer more advice.

On my Microwave it saying e5 on it and it not reheating it self

Take it in for service. It is nothing that is straightforward, https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Have you checked inside the microwave? Usually they have the manual hidden in there.

Replace the faulty door switch.

one of micro switch could be bad or the main board issue is there