20 Most Recent Maytag MMC5000 Microwave Oven - Page 5 Questions & Answers

It would appear that you have a bad turntable motor, but it may also be the coupler.

You can check this by taking out the glass turntable, and gently trying to wiggle the little square device that drives the turntable support.

If the coupler feels loose, it's probably broken.

If it feels tight, grip it very firmly with your fingers and try to turn a little it as if you were imitating the motor. If it turns the motor, you'll hear the whining sound made by the motor gears. That would mean your coupling is probably okay. It takes a little force to turn it.

If it doesn't turn, you may not be turning enough, or the coupler or motor may be bad.

If you or someone you know decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

There is a good video showing you this test on a good motor. If the video does not embed below, find it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPSWi_z7M58

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This is usually a probem with a door switch or door switch mount or a problem on the control board. We repair these control panel assemblies for $39.95 nationwide.

If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Found this under Maytag instead of LG, but will be happy to help.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Magnetron diagnosis is here: http://gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose conneciton on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

We appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part such as high-voltage rectifier diode

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and
replacement, and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Phone these guys at maytag - sorry info is not available online 1-800-688-9900. Hope this helps :)

You say when you "power on" the fuse blows? If that means when you hit the START button to cook, then you probably have a shorted high-voltage capacitor. If you mean it blows when you plug it in, you probably have a shorted door switch. Your microwave may also have a wiring diagram pasted on the inside of the outer wrapper or in an envelope. That will help in your tests.

If it hums like it's trying to run when you just plug it in but you have not pressed any keys to initiate cooking, then that problem is almost certain to be related to the control panel. Probably what happened is the steam got onto the circuit board. You may find that it has a coating of residue which is shorting out the unit. That can usually be cleaned and any damage corrected. We do that sort of repair for 32.50 nationwide. If it is not cleaned within a few weeks, it can corrode connections and make the damage worse. In some cases the keypad is affected but not the board. If either needs to be replaced, both are available. You can part prices by entering your complete model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 It is also possilbe that in addition you have a problem in the high voltage section. At that same site, you can find exploded view diagrams to help you look over the unit to see if there is any damage to the high voltage transformer or the high voltage rectifier diode. Those parts are reference number 5 and 8 respectively on the diagram for model number MMC5000ADB and I suspect they're the same on yours. Be sure it remians unplugged if you open the unit.

It's probably a bad door switch or it's loose in its mount. I have complete help text files on safety, disassembly and door switches. With help from those, you or a friend can safety disassemble the unit to check and replace the door switches. You can find me via a search on Yahoo.com (not Google) for microwave circuit repair

In some cases, the unit will have an option to turn the turntalbe on and off, depending on your needs. If you have your manual, check there to see if that optyion exists, and if so, you should be able to use the HELP or other key to turn it on. If not, you can visit http://www.maytag.com and select the use & care manuals option near the lower right of their home page. You will be instructed to enter your full 10-digit model number. Then you can download it. If that doesn't solve your situation, then you may have a bad connection, a bad switch or relay on the control panel, or a bad motor. Once you've checked against the manual, please feel free to post back with your full model number and we'll be happy to help you further.

On my Microwave it saying e5 on it and it not reheating it self

Take it in for service. It is nothing that is straightforward, https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Have you checked inside the microwave? Usually they have the manual hidden in there.

Replace the faulty door switch.

one of micro switch could be bad or the main board issue is there

Hi, My research came up with a shorted keypad (shorted key). The part number I came up with was W10258190 this is for stainless. I hope this information helped. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

The SE error code means you have a shorting membrane keypad.

you would need to replace either the membrane keypad or the control panel frame assembly, which comes with a new keypad already installed.

unfortunately, those parts for this model seem to be unavailable. So the only option would be if you can find a used or "New Old stock" part on eBay or at a local or online appliance parts store.

If you can find either of these parts, that will fix your microwave:

DE94-01386S ASY CONTROL-PANEL (STL)

DE34-00233N SWITCH MEMBRANE (BLK)

The support page for your microwave is here, where you can find manuals and a helpful exploded view part diagram.

https://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=MMV5207BCS&siteCd=WHRCOM&userType=Consumer

Good luck.

Replace the MW

The service manual for model MMV5165 is here at my Web site.