20 Most Recent Maytag MMV4205 Microwave Oven - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Some of these models have a Plastic type bearing and that is causing the squeak

You will need to change the gas orifice for the type of gas you'll be using. You also may have to change the gas regulator, but you should check the installation manual for details.

You can also contact Maytag by calling 1-800-688-9900 to get the exact part numbers you'll need to make the conversion correctly.

Hope you found this helpful and best regards!

9 times out of 10 this is usually this is a bad magnetron, the other time is sometimes a bad high voltage diode. See components section. Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay..... Q - The microwave display counts down and the inside light is on, but nothing is heating and the fan is not running.
A - This most commonly is a bad door switch, other possible problems are a faulty relay or solder joint on the power module, but a bad door switch is most common.

If it is working but not heating, then test the high voltage capacitor,the rectifier diode.or the magnetron. If all this are fine, test the control board.If turntable is not running check also the door switch.

The diodeand capacitors can be tested. The capacitor must be allowed discharge before testing, or you risk to get electrocuted, evenif power is off.Capacitors can get discharged by shorting their two contacts.
Before replacing the magnetron test also the control board.
Replace the magnetron if the checks and all of the high voltage component tests are good, but the unit still does not heat.



All locations, and description of this parts can be located using the diagram here: Counter top.

Parts must be tested to find out what is wrong.

Remember that microwaves are potentially dangerous devices if not repaired properly, the job must be done by a competent person.
A microwave energy leakage test must always be performed when the oven is serviced for any reason.

Regarding parts, contact the seller here to purchase parts.

You can also order from MicrowaveSvc , they also provide parts.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

It may be an open fuse, magnetron TCO or oven cavity TCO.

Accessing the oven cavity for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download Maytag owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

It may be an open fuse, magnetron TCO or oven cavity TCO.

Accessing the oven cavity for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

You can download Maytag owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

1st try to un-plug and then re-plug after a few minutes to reset... if that does not work, then your internal ceramic fuse is probably blown. You can get one at radio shack for $3.... Always start though by checking to make sure the breaker for the receptacle that the unit is plugged into is still set.

Steve

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and all are working here.

With the symptoms you have, I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier diode or a bad magnetron, or a loose and possibly corroded connection on the magnetron's terminal.

The diode is a fairly cheap fix, and the mag will cost more.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You can usually find it by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Quite often this is due to grease or food particles stuck somewhere in the cavity of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.

It may also be in the area of the turntable support, coupler, or motor.

The waveguide cover (also called a spatter shield) is usually about the size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet.

In some models it is a larger stirrer cover type made of thicker plastic in the ceiling of the oven.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.

If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced. It provides important protection for the magnetron.

If yours is a Maytag, you can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If you don't find your model listed, please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

H95, H97, H98 or H99 mean that there's a problem with your inverter, magnetron, or digital programming circuit.



Due to the lethal voltages used and produced in inverters, I do not recommend that an inexperienced person work on these.

In Canada, you can find an authorized Panasonic servicer here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If the food in the cooking compartment is not heating at all, then you may have one of several components related to microwave energy generation that have failed or became disconnected internally.
Magnetron Tube, HV Capacitor, Filament Transformer or any number of sensors that disable power to the system. The control board could also cause the system to noty function correctly.. You wanted general inputs.. there ya go.. LOL
Not sure I told you anything you didn't already know but you should ask the tech what he did after he gets it going...
Regards,
Rick

-SE- error means you have a shorted keypad.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here if it's a Maytag or here if it's a Samsung.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you would like to have us do this for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

The first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for maybe an hour. Then let us know if the hard reset does not fix it.

Also, you can download Maytag owner's manuals here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This may not help but will throw it out there ... Have you tried unplugging the micro for a little while and then plugging it back in? The switch may not control the light directly but may be through a relay and that may be stuck on... Give it a try and let us know if the power down/up cycle helps.. If it doesn't..I'll dig in deeper and look at the circuit logic to see if I can find the root cause..

Normally you press Time Cook > Power Level > # (Where # is a number 1-9, standing for 10-90%).

If this doesn't answer it, please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

check the connections on the h.v side because the unit works on 4500 volts and if there are any bad connctions it will not reach its working voltage and will not energize.remove all the connections 1 at a time and tighten all the terminals and try it again.you will not be able to test the components with a digital multimetre as it does not have the range.you need an analoge unit with a 10k scale and a 9 volt battery inside or it will give you falsr readings.teh diode which is thge little black unit with 1 side down to earth should read half way with the laeds on 1 way then when you put it on the opposite side it should not move.the capacitor will make the needle of the multimetre flick up when put onto the terminals both ways.the magnetron should have a short reading on the terminals but with 1 connected to the terminal of the input and 1 to the case it should not read at all,hope this helps regards les

it could be that the magnetron is faulty and is pulling to much current or the hv transformer is overvolting causing it to pull to much current.you will need to get a clamp meter and put it on the live or negative input lead and turning it on ,if it goes over 13 amp you have a problem with either of these things.you will then have to check the magnetron by disconnectint the wiring and trying it again.if it stills pulls to much current then the h.v transformer will be faulty.hopes this helps regards les

We have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at oursite, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:http://tinyurl.com/yzjozkOnce you\'ve looked those over, here are some links on part testing:http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/cap_test.html http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/diode.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/mag_test.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/xformer.html
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts byentering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383We\'re happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.