20 Most Recent Maytag MMV4205 Microwave Oven - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The Magnetron Tube can be replaced but you should read the link before Consumer Complaints & Reviews

On a 1-10 scale- this is a 2. place a cardboard box on the stove to support the microwave once it is free. Remove power cord from the outlet in the cabinet over the microwave. In the cabinet over the microwave, locate the 2 mounting screws. Loosen each one about 6 turns- the microwave should drop down in the front by about 1/2 inch. Once loose, you can remove both screws completely and allow the front of the oven to rest on the cardboard box. While supporting the front of the microwave,have a helper remove the cardboard box. Tricky part...while supporting the front - angled slightly down, lift hard under the rear of the microwave and pull toward you. Have a helper feed the power cord through the upper cabinet bas as you bring the microwave toward you and slightly down. Place the microwave on the counter- with a towel in place to prevent scratching the counter. remove the rear-wall mounted support bracket. Done

You likely have a bad top or bottom door switch or its mount is loose, misaligned, or broken. See these help files: http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/safety.txt http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/disassembly.txt http://031d26d.namesecurehost.com/mwd/doorsw.txt You can order parts for most major brands from the Pros here.

You have a failing membrane keypad. With the full model number, I could have given you a detailed answer including part numbers, sources, and instructions. You can still get that at no charge by letting me know your full model number and symptoms, here.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor. See http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/cap_test.html If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer. See: http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/xformer.html If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount. See our help file on door switches here.You can find helpful manuals, exploded views and parts lists here.Our favorite supplier is the Pros here.

It's probably the internal fuse.You will have to take the microwave down so you can remove the housing to get at the fuse.(I will probably install an accessable panel mounted fuse holder if this ever happens to mine-already did it on the little microwave I carry around on my work truck to heat up my lunch).

see this causes and fix it. God bless you Touchpad and Control Panel If the microwave buttons don't work the touchpad and control panel assembly are probably defective. Touchpad If the microwave buttons don't work the touchpad might be at fault. Generally speaking, if the display is working and some of the buttons respond correctly but some don't, the problem is with the touchpad. User Control and Display Board If the microwave buttons don't work the main control board is most likely defective and will need to be replaced. Main Control Board If the microwave buttons don't work the main control board is most likely defective and will need to be replaced.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you Diode The high voltage diode converts the A/C power output of the transformer to D/C, doubling the voltage to nearly 5,000 volts. This high voltage powers the magnetron which emits the energy that cooks the food. If the diode burns out, a lower A/C voltage reaches the magnetron, which is not sufficient to power the magnetron. When the diode fails it is often visibly burned out. If it appears to be good, it can be tested with a volt-Ohm meter capable of testing diodes. High voltage diodes frequently fail and are one of the most common points of failure in a microwave oven. Door Switch If the microwave does not heat, one of the door switches might be defective. Microwave ovens normally have three door switches, if any of them fail the microwave does not turn on and does not heat. Check the switches for continuity with an Ohm meter. Magnetron If the microwave oven doesn't heat the magnetron tube might have burned out. The magnetron uses high voltage, high current DC power to generate the microwave frequency that cooks the food. If the microwave oven is turned on when it is empty this can cause the magnetron to burn out. Once it is burned out it has to be replaced, it's not repairable. High Voltage Capacitor If the microwave doesn't heat the high voltage capacitor might be defective. The high voltage capacitor works with the high voltage diode to convert the output of the transformer to DC voltage and to double the output voltage. If the capacitor is burned out the entire high voltage circuit stops working properly. The high voltage capacitor can be checked with a special VOM meter which has a capacitance testing capability. Be aware that the high voltage capacitor can retain a charge of more than 3,000 volts and can injure or kill a person if not handled properly. Only trained technicians should perform this type of testing. High Voltage Transformer If the microwave does not heat, the high voltage transformer might be burned out. Microwave ovens produce a very high voltage in order to power the magnetron antenna, which emits the energy that cooks the food. Thermal Fuse If the microwave doesn't heat the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information. Thermoprotector If the microwave doesn't heat the thermoprotector may have tripped. This is a safety device to prevent the microwave from overheating. It can be tested for continuity to see if it's blown. Main Control Board If the microwave doesn't heat the main control board may be defective. This is not common. When a microwave doesn't heat the problem is usually within the high voltage circuit; either the high voltage capacitor, diode, transformer or magnetron.

see this causes and fix it. God bless youLights come on, but can not program unit, Touchpad dead If you have a stuck key or non-responsive key, most of the time you will have to replace the keypad for this microwave oven repair. If your keypad is connected to your control board by a flat ribbon wire, try disconnecting it and clean the silver contacts with an ordinary pencil eraser. After cleaning, plug it back in and try it. If it doesn't fix it, replace the keypad unit. Some units actually have keypad tests to confirm your diagnosis of a bad key.If your keypad and control is the same unit, replace that unit. Another note, unlike stove/oven keypads and controls, most microwaves do not have error codes or tests to distinguish whether it is truely the keypad or control. Most of the time, it is the keypad that needs replacing, but a small percentage of the time it can be the control. Check the tech sheet if they can point you to the right part.

There is a considerable amount of weight to lower. It is an easier removal with the range pulled out and moved to the side. If you choose to move the range, be sure to protect the floor. Unplug the microwave. The plug should be in the cabinet above the range. There are two screws in the cabinet above that screw down into the top and support the front. These are the only fasteners that hold the machine directly. An assistant would be nice to have to help with the weight. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws and slowly lower the front of the microwave pulling the cord out of the cabinet above as you go. Once the cord is free, tilt the machine down in front until the back can be lifted up off the plate that is fastened to the wall.

From the description it is the magnetron, it will be expensive for the part alone, and keep in mind shops have different rates making impossible to give exact quotes, but I would estimate parts and labour at least $250.00 or more, if you decide to go with the repair make sure the magnetron is not a aftermarket product it will last about 6 months.