Top 10 LG LSC26905TT Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Your icemaker tray has an update for the water flowing over the tray.  You will need to call a qualified LG technician to get it replaced.  Also, the tray is twisted because it binds itself against the hinge pin on the left side.  To stop this, spray some cooking spray oil in the left hinge pin and it should unbind itself and return to normal.

I was able to order the ice tray myself and install it in the fridge - it's not hard. I ordered from one of the parts sellers linked to at the LG website, not those listed in other posts here.

Here's how to replace the tray:

You need to remove the tray dumping mechanism to do this.

1. Remove the ice bin, set it aside (don't forget to deal with the ice melt).
2. Turn the ice maker off (LG says to unplug the fridge, I didn't).
3. On the left hand side of the ice tray dumping mechanism there is a screw helping to keep the entire thing suspended from the ceiling of the freezer. Remove that screw- don't worry, the mechanism will stay put for now.
4. The dumping mechanism can now slide forward- note that you can't completely remove it from the freezer yet, but slide it forward and it will no longer be suspended from the ceiling. Don't let it drop or hang.
5. You need to disconnect its power supply now. On the left hand side you should see a small bundle of wires coming from the back of the freezer to the dumping mechanism. It connects to the dumping mechanism's set of wires with a pair of white plugs. Pull these plugs apart. You may need to pry the catch on these plugs apart while you pull.
6. Now you can take the dumping mechanism out of the freezer (and close your freezer).
7. To remove the ice tray you need to slide the housing that contains the rotating motor out of the housing. This is on the right side of the mechanism. If you have trouble identifying it look at the underside of the entire thing and you'll see a small "test" button. That button is on the motor.
8. To remove the motor you'll see two catches on the right side- you'll need to pull these catches out without breaking anything. You'll be able to slide the motor down and out when you get it right.
9. Sliding the motor out lets you get the old ice tray out now. There is probably a set of white wires routed through a little catch on the old ice tray that you'll need to free.
10. Put the new ice tray back on the motor. You'll need to get the left side secured at the same time you get the motor housing in its catches of the dumping mechanism.
11. Reroute those white wires back on the new ice tray.
12. Reconnect the electric wires to the housing.
    
13. Slide the entire dumping housing back onto the ceiling of the freezer and screw in on the left side.

That's it. You can press that test button on the underside of the motor. This will dump the tray and immediately refill it with water so you can observe if everything is working.

reset by pressing the two temperature buttons on the front together for 10 sec until all the lights come on?

Very problematic issue with this model .Try unplugging and plugging the fridgerator which resets the board.The board is located on top under a removeable panel where the power cord enters....there is a reset/diagnostic button on the board itself.Contact LGUSA.com for any possible warranty and complain like crazy to avoid spending $300 on this board which can be purchased from andrewselectronics.com who is a factory authorized parts provider.Keeping that ice maker going will make you pull your hair out which is unfortuante for such a stylish and expensive fridge.good luck

Over the past few years the appliance companies have found that it is less costly and more efficient to replace the traditional spray in foam insulation to Styrofoam panels. They do sometimes shift. When they shift they can come in contact with the fan. The blade shaves them and then blows the foam particles into the unit. If you are comfortable with doing repairs then you can fix this. You will need to un-plug the refrigerator and remove everything in the freezer. You will see a series of screws in the back inside panel. Take these screws out and remove the panel. You will expose the coil and fan assembly. Inspect it and make any adjustments to the foam at this time. assemble in reverse. Hope this helps. Good luck. RE-post with updates. Thanks cj2176.

The arm should move to the up position just before dumping the next batch of ice thus preventing ice from piling up on the arm. After the ice is dumped the arm goes back down. Once the ice bin if full the arm cannot go down and this shuts the production of ice off. The arm will be supported on one or both ends. Make sure it is securely in place. Pull the arm to the up (off) position and then come back in a couple of hours to make sure no ice is being made. If it still is making ice then the control module or shutoff switch may be bad. There are 2 types of ice makers. One in which all the parts can be replaced individually and one in which there are bunched together in a control module. If there is a knob, pull that off first. Module units have holes in the face plate marked with a letter and do not have a separate shutoff switch. Component units have no holes and will have exposed gears. If you see no holes pry off the face plate. Now click this link on the procedure to test the shutoff switch on a component unit. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/icemaker/check/shutoffswitch.php

Remove all items from the fridge and keep open the fridge doors for atleast 2 days and that will remove all the frosted ice on the evaporator(which can't be seen) and shall work fine after two days.

Sounds like this is a water level problem. Too much water is being released into ice tray, which raises the water level above the depth of each cube form, causing one big cube. You can adjust the water level.
Check this out:
How to Adjust the Water Level on an Ice Maker eHow

With LG 'smart' refrigerators, the error code CF means that the refrig control board 'thinks' the condenser fan down by the condenser coil is not working. I don't know ow the board senses that, unless it's a temperature sensor on the condenser coil signaling the coil is running too hot. It could be dust blocking the coil air flow, a bad fan (locked up or running slow), a bad sensor, a bad control board, you name it!

if the inside light works then call in a technician as the cause could be a control board , thermostat or failed compressor