20 Most Recent Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner - Page 7 Questions & Answers

MY BLOWER MOTOR WILL NOT START ON ITS OWN, BUT BY HAND

with the unit off: use a stick or something safe to try to move the fan blades to be sure the motor is not seized. If it spins freely :turn the unit on and use stick to give the fan motor a "boost". if it takes off and runs you have a bad fan capacitor which is the most common cause of your problem

Just follow the ducts from the unit, filter is usually located in the ceiling or wall.

Sounds like one of the limit switches are stuck closed. There are two types, manual and auto reset. The limit switches are about the size of a dime and have 2 wires connected to them. The manual reset switches have a small red button between the wires. Press the buttons and make sure you find all of them. They can be rather obscure. There is also a larger limit located on the bonnet wall. It's the main limit. You need to remove the wires and do a continuity check to see if it's bad. Gas furnaces are pretty simple and with a meter, you will be able to find the one that is bad. They are not that expensive so if you don't want to check them all, you can replace all of them. You can check them too by using a small piece of wire, called a jumper wire. Remove the two wires from the limit and use your "jumper" wire to tie them together. Do this one at a time turning the unit off and back on each time.

check breakers first,then fuses in disconnect if applicable,then capacitor.

Do u mean the evaperator drain pan.Were is it located in attic or in house closet.Because the condenser fan motor and coils are located outside.BUT ANY WAY DRAIN LINE MIGHT BE CLOGGED OR IN PAN-BLOW COMPRESS AIR INTO DRAIN LINE.CK END OF PIPES FOR CLOGG.

Temp is likely set way too high and at night unit is trying to reach that.

hello, are easy to fix. Usually without professional help. I get lots and lots of inquiries about water leaking from air conditioners and heat pumps. This is a very common problem that is easily solved. The way your air conditioner dries your house is by removing moisture. That moisture must go some where. The moisture is removed by condensing it on the cold refrigeration coils and letting it run down a drain pan.
The problem is that dirt and crud will stop up the drain line and clog the pan. This will eventually happen to every system out there give it enough time.
While this problem makes a terrible mess and seems like to end of your system it is really quite easy to fix. Most system simply use a 3/4 inch PVC pipe to drain the water to a floor drain or sink. when (not if) this drain clogs the drain pan over flows (especially when the fan stops) and you have a mess.
Fixing this problem is rather easy. Simply take a wet dry vacuum and **** the drain line clean, 9 times out of 10 this will fix it and that is the last of this problem you will have for a few years. If the drain pan is really dirty then you will have to take the covers off the unit and vacuum it out. In extreme cases you may have to use compressed air, nitrogen or CO2 to blow out the drain line (expect a big mess at the other end).If you don't have either avaliable you can use the Garden hose to flush the line backwards (expect an even bigger mess on the other end)
In rare cases you may actually have a hole in the coil drain pan in which case the coil or the pan will have to be replaced especially if it is steel (but this is rare). In other rare cases we have had situations where grease or oil fumes from the furnace have condensed on the coil and caused the water to fall off the coil. When this happens you must clean the coil with soap or some solvent.
If the coil is totally stopped up the back pressure from the fan/blower can force the water out of the pan by undermining the bottom of the coil. When the coil is this dirty the coil usually needs to be replaced. You will also notice little or no air flow.
wish you good luck,

take care.

The buzzing sounds like the fan trying to start. Try a new fan capacitor, or get a new fan

try ruud.com tech support or google . Tom

If the system is actually doing everything it can, which I do occasionally run into, then it's time to start looking at other factors like the heat loads. Number one problem I run into is either attic insulation or attic ventilation. One thing that really sticks out in your post though is the square footage and tonnage. Now, to be honest, what the square footage is from the home owner to actual living space always varies. Home owners always get the square footage like a realtor, but includes the garage and other unconditioned rooms. What your looking for is the square footage of only the rooms that have a vent. It is 400cfm per ton, 1 cfm per square foot. So if you have a 2.5 ton system, it is capable of doing 1000 square feet of living space. You said 1500 square feet, which would need a 3.5 to 4 ton system. Hope this helps and gets you to cooler days!