20 Most Recent Whirlpool 19.6 cu. ft. Commercial Freezer EV201NXM Questions & Answers

Fixing the defrost circuit is relatively simple. It made of three things, the defrost heater, the thermostat and the timer. The usual parts that fail are the heater and the timer. The first thing to check is the defrost timer. It looks like this:

It can found either near the compressor or in the little box inside that controls the temperature. What it does is that it powers the compressor for about 8 hours and then turns off the power for 45 minutes to allow the defrost heater to melt the frost buildup. The timer is run by a little motor. Often the motor stops working and the freezer is either stuck running the compressor continously or the defrost heater.

On the side of the timer is a little cam that you can turn with a straight blade screwdriver. Turn it until it clicks. When it does, the compressor should shut off and the heater should start to heat up. If you hear the crackling of ice melting, then the problem is with your timer not working. If the ice is not melting then the problem is either with the heater/thermostat. Check to see if the heater is burned out or use a meter to check continuity between the heater and the thermostat. If it is open then replace the heater and thermostat.

Any of the defrost parts should be available from an appliance supply house or online. Hope this helps you.

Why were all these replacements made ? Sounds like the Technicians have no clue.
When the compressor was changed was the drier changed ? Was the system properly Evacuated and Leak tested ? Please give all the details as this sounds to me more like shoddy workmanship and parts changers.

Sounds like the defrost termination (stops the defrost) has failed. If you are handy you can replace the termination control yourself.
The question also arises why the "Fail-Safe" on the Time Clock (takes unit out of defrost if termination control failed) did not work.

Hi,
The compressor information is right on the label on the top of the compressor... On some of the pics in the refrigerator
compressor tip you can see the label of that compressor...
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

You have a clogged drainline when it defrost it has no where to go use hot water over and over and a hair dryier to unclog make sure its clear with a clotheshanger made of wire. Then run one more cup of hot water through the line to make sure.

As you know a GFI trips with current leakage.
Test the unit with a "Megger".

Hi,
The one light should be for power the other for alarm meaning the temperature has risen, which you already know.

In order to help you better I need to ask some questions about the freezer.

First off, is this an automatic defrost unit or manual defrost?
Does it have a fan inside the freezer? If so is it running
Do you see a frost build up on the back wall of the freezer closer to the bottom?
Do you hear the compressor running (the black pump behind the freezer on the bottom)? It will have a slight hum when running.
Is there frost build up anywhere else like the walls inside?

Hi,
Check out this tip it will help you fix that...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3780310-water_running_in_refrigerator_from

heatman101

I have a EVL201NXRQ05 upright whirlpool. It was purchased in Nov 2008 in the Summer of 2009 the gasket was leaking at the top of the door. The gasket on this door snaps into place (no hardware needed). The problem is the door was bowed in the middle pulling the gasket down and away from the metal frame of the freezer - to the point the magnets in the gasket would not touch in the middle of the opening. I requested a new door while under warrantry. The door did not appear to be repairable it is a glued/foamed-inplace assembly. The new door looked straight when I installed it last summer and now it is bowed but not yet leaking. Whirlpool has a design / manufacture problem with this door design. I have received an extended warranty option from Whirlpool this past week 4 months after the factory warranty has expired. I suspect they know they have any issue, but not much is written about it. I may end up buying the extended warranty, but first I'm going to where I bought it to complain.

I would check your door seals to make sure they are doing there job. If warm moist air gets into an area of cold this will happen. You may need to get new seals for your freezer door.

the ice build up is from a frozen drain line. you will need to remove teh rear cover in the freezer and you will uncover a coil at the bottom center there is a drain hole that allows defrost water to drain out. defrost any ice then flush the line out with warm water. if it doesnt clear right away you may need to use a large syringe or possibly a turkey baster to force warm water into drain.
BTW the door not sealing is not related to this problem. good luck peyton

Question edited for clarity. This might be close enough? Contact details on Page 1 and 2. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/191418/Whirlpool-Upright-Freezer.html https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+SVF15NRHW01+manual ..

If your Whirlpool upright freezer is working fine but an intermittent alarm is sounding that is different from the high temperature alarm, it could indicate an issue with the door or the door switch. The alarm is designed to alert you if the door has been left open for an extended period or if the door switch is malfunctioning. Check the door seal to ensure it is tight and the door is closing properly. You can also try cleaning the door switch to see if that resolves the issue. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a professional for further assistance.

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There shouldn't be any 'jingly tone' at the end of every compressor cycle. You could be hearing something else making a sound after the compressor stops.

The larger one

The door switch or door module is defective. or the door is not fully closed