Lakewood (5500) Oil Filled Radiator Heater - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

yes - replace the part.

Tip-over switch is stuck. Give it a couple love taps.

Follow up to my post of 13 January. Out of desperation, I took the heater apart and determined that an electrical fuse-like thermal overload device had opened on the neutral side of the feed to the heating element thus rendering the unit non-working. This device is wrapped in a sheath around the underside of the heating element's electrical connections where the element enters the radiator's core. If the element exceeds the rated temperature it apparently "blows" or electrically opens much like a fuse. The lights still come on but no electricity is getting to the element. When I removed this from the circuit, the the unit began making heat. Apparently, when the heater is on full (both switches on for the full 1,500 watts) the core temperature gets too high. So, I now use my heater on only the 900 watt setting and it's putting out plenty of heat. Today's high is 2F and the room is comfortable. I've no doubt the manufacturer would not condone this modification and I have no intention of turning my modified heater back on "HIGH." Therefore I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are competent in electrical and soldering work and are sure you won't overheat the unit. Having said that Lakewood clearly has either a design flaw or a bad batch of heater elements or overload protectors out there. When I have time, I'm planning to send my defective protector back to them with a letter. But given that they never responded to my e-mail to their customer service don't expect much in the way of a reply. As they say on TV, don't try this at home.

Well, they don't seem to sell parts for these. So the best bet would be to try ebay or craigs list, for a used heater for parts.

inside should be a sticker or on the door or on bottom.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the lights being on confirms that you have power to the unit, and the lack of heat indicates that the heating element is burned out. No real repair options for these heaters -- it's time to shop for a new one . . .

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you to understand about oil filled radiator heaters....

Oil Filled Radiator Heater Leaking
heatman101

Hola, si tienes problema con argo de liquido salindo del HEATER, por favor combia lo por otro. Si se apprende pero no calienta, entinde que tarda varios minutos en calentar. Si todavia tienes problemas por favor cambia el enchufe al otro en la casa.
Si todavia tienes problemas, escribeme.
GRACIAS

The heater should not be used -- not economical to repair and not safe to operate.

Charlie

I could not easily find an instruction sheet, but I believe that the top knob is the thermostat... rotate it clockwise for higher temperatures and counter-clockwise to lower the temperature. The lower knob controls the number of heating elements. The first dot/dash if for the 600W element only, the second longer dot/dash is for the 900W element only; and the longest dot/dash is to select both the heating elements giving 1500W total output power.
I hope this helps...
/denis

Check fuse in plug, turn heat setting or thermostat on heater to max.

sounds like it faulted and burned out some wiring i wouldn't use i would get it looked at to make sure all ok as it may now be elecrically dangerous, if that burning smell, smelt like rubber i'd say definatly electrical but without seening it to hard to say

Just 15 minutes is ok.

Hi,
Those units are sealed, this traps the oil inside and provides a maintenance free heating system.
There is no need to and therefore no provision made to add oil to the heater.

heatman101

We have these heaters and haven't had a fuse fail yet. I think it's because after the first time I got that crackling sound after moving it while it was on, I stopped doing that, and only move it with the power off, and wait two minutes before restarting it, so the oil can resettle.

However, the thermostats are now failing. Anyone know if this part is available?

The reason that it stopped is an open circuit. It is probably a blown thermal fuse. However, it could be any of the following if that is not the problem:

bad switch, broken or disconnected wire, burned open heater element, bad connections between terminals and wires, or between wire connectors and the wires within them.

If you take it apart, you will find the heat sensitive thermal fuse device under the heating elements, near the bottom of the unit. If the thermal fuse is good, it will appear as a short to an ohmmeter (zero ohms). If it is failed, it will appear as an open (infinite ohms).

The thermal fuse device can be replaced. Here is where to get one:
http://www.goodmans.net/get_list_632_2.htm

The thermal fuse may be this one, but check the temperature indication on yours first: Item#: TH-TF167C

Good luck.

Hi ladybug75846,
I have the same problem. My husband checked the continuity and found out the thermistor is the problem. The thermistor is stamped S.W.C. SW-122. If you find a source for these, would you kindly post it. Thanks!

I seriously doubt that you have an oil leak problem. More than likely it blew a fuse or has a break in the power wire. Most oil filled heaters have a thermostat, indicator light and that is about it. There is a long shot it could be the thermostat but I doubt it. Look at the unit and see if it has a fuse holder anywhere. Most likely by the thermostat. It could also be by or in the control panel. This will be a process of elimination. I suppose since it was given to you it could have the heating element burned out in which case you may as well get another unit. Look for the fuse and get back to me.

hardrocko

Thanks for using FixYa

Similar problem here. But in my case, it was a blown fuse. There's an in-line fuse on the internal wiring of the heater. Take the control-side off (remove the bottom grey plastic bracket, then remove a sheet metal screw, then slide the whole assembly down off of the radiator). Where the elements go into the reservoir at the bottom of the radiator, the white wire should have an inline fuse connected to it. It will probably be covered with what looks like heat-shrink tubing. Snip, snip, and replace.

Probably not.