20 Most Recent Rinnai Toyostove Direct Vent Heater: Toyostove Laser 73 Shipping - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You did not say, but I would guess you have a Laser 56 heater. If so, you need to have the combustion chamber overhauled. The burner mat has lifted and the ring will need to be replaced. Cost will be around $150 or so. It's time, 13 years is a long time ago.

Tom

Because you have the EE2 error I would say there is nothing wrong with the circ fan. Your are either having a problem with fuel flow or the igniter. Feel around the two red wires when you try to start the heater. If they get hot you have a fuel problem. If you also hear a thumbing noise you have a fuel problem.

Tom

Hardware stores usually carry wicks. One brand is Kero World. Wick #503K works for the KSA-105. I have one that I bought and the person never brought their heater by so I could replace the wick. The battery pack could be ordered through a Toyostove dealer.

I'm not sure if I'm answering the question right, but the reset light should reset when the heater cools down. If not you may have a problem a circuit board or a bad temperature sensor or loose wire. You should find out why the heater overheated. It could be a dirty fan or fan cage or something else blocking the air flow.

As long as the gasket isn't broken you can reuse it but be careful becaust they are very easily broken.
I use a thin bladed screwdriver to remove the carbon and old glue, then vacuum up the mess. I sometimes use my sandblaster just for good measure.
If I'm not mistaken, there is a notch on the burner mat. Put the notch under the fuel inlet. I put a bead of the white adhesive all the way around the mat. I also put a drop in the middle. Press the mat down good and flat.
Hope this helps.

Depending on how much the heater has been used, you may just have carbon/soot built up on the exhaust fan blades. This can be remedied by removing the blower assembly and cleaning the exhaust fan blades. They are the set on top. If could also be a bearing as you suggest but I would check the fan blades first. Let me know if this doesn't fix the problem.

Down load it

Remove the front cover. Remove the 1 1/2 inch black hose that has a 90 degree bend into the silver box. With the stove OFF stick your finger in the hole and try to spin the fan. It may take a few times but keep trying it should break free. Once free the stove will work. If it spins freely and still gives the EE8 you wll need a new motor.

Tom

The fan blowing air to the room might not be on but the flue fan would be. I reckon this is where the noise might be from. Fan impellors get coated with dust and this throws the balance out (similar to a car wheel if you loose one of the balance weights). Highly recommend getting it serviced by a good technician. Always good practice every year or so and might fix the problem.

There are several possibilities. You said you have plenty of fuel, but is it getting to the fuel sump. If the pump makes a loud ticking or thumping sound, it is not getting fuel to it. You may need to vent your filter to remove an air bubble. The heater also has a strainer inside the fuel sump that may need to be cleaned. Refer to the owner's manual for instructions for that. The fuel sump also has a reset button that releases the fuel float that may need to be pressed. The fuel nozzle sometimes gets clogged with carbon. You can remove the fuel line and insert a piece of wire (stiff wire) into the nozzle about 1-2 inches to remove it. Another problem may be a dirty flame sensor. You can clean it with steelwool. Since you say it lit I wouldn't suspect the igniter is bad. Also remove the top from the fuel sump clean the sump if necessary.

Hi John, I would say it is leaking because the needle valve in the fuel sump isn't shutting off the fuel flow once the level is where it needs to be. The sump is vented to atmosphere so the fuel will gravity drain to the sump. The fuel sump has a float like a lawnmower carbuerator. You can take the sump out and clean it and that may help. Kerosene will sometimes gel after it has sit a while. Carb cleaner usually does a good job. Let me know what you find. My uncle worked on these heaters for 20+ years then trained me. I have an old non working Laser 55 that has some good parts on it if you are ever in need.

My Laser 73 does the same thing at least once, and sometimes twice, a year. The EE6 code is what the onboard computer gives when it THINKS the flame has gone out. Now, it COULD be that all that is wrong is you are out of fuel, OR you have water in the fuel. But....the more likely scenerio, (and what has always gone wrong with mine) is a common problem in the flame pot:
There is a stainless steel baffle near the bottom of the flame pot. (about 2 inches off the bottem). This baffle is used to "form the flame", cause it to curl up around the inside edges of the pot, where the air intake holes are, to create a clean-burning, high-efficiency blue flame. Over time, this baffle becomes horribly warped and distorted from the intense heat. (an engineering design screwup, IMO) (but you'll never get them to admit it) This warping of the baffle, in turn, causes the flame itself to become uneven, and to also begin burning poorly, with soot deposits. One of the first hints this is happening is lots of YELLOW flame, instead of the usual blue. When this happens, the flame SENSOR becomes sooted and dirty, and no longer is able to sense the flame. It tells the computer to shut down, because it thinks there is no flame, hence the "EE6" code. This sensor is simply a stainless steel rod poking into the flame pot. It's on the front of the pot, two screw fastening, and has a single wire attached to it, which runs to the computer. It is used to detect IONS (minute current) running from the flame front to the pot itself. (ground) And....(as if all this is not enough), the gaskets around the middle section of the flame pot, and at the top, usually develop cracks and leaks.
Cleaning the sensor (with steel wool) usually isn't enough to fix this problem. You will likely have to replace both of the fire-pot gaskets, the flame pot baffle, and also the burner "mat". (a round, flat, fiberglass mat glued to the bottem of the flame pot. Vacuum out all the dirt and soot. The baffle "unscrews" with about a quarter-twist CCW. (lift upwards on it, while turning CCW) Use fire-proof sealer on the new gaskets. Plan on all day taking it apart, and back together again. (a time consuming job...no fun) Good luck!

Make sure that the flue pipe is angled down outside. I can't remember the angle they recommend, but I think it should slope down about 1/2" for 12" of horizontal run. Also the Laser's are very efficient resulting in some of the flue gas condensing. This will leave some build up behind that reminds me of the stuff you find on a car battery terminal. Let me know if this helps so I can give you more suggestions if necessary.

The thermo couple is defective.(it is the small thin tube that sits in the pilot flame and attaches to the gas control valve).

No ignition. Check the igniter by feeling around the two red wires when you try to start the stove. They will get very hot so be careful. If the igniter gets hot you have a fuel problem. No fuel, low fuel or dirty filter.

Keep us posted,

Tom

ONCCON,

EE10 is not good. This means you had a flame in the pot when there should not have been one. The red button is to be used very carefully. One time for one second. I think you have pushed the button too much and got a fair amount of fuel into the burner. Without pushing the red button try the stove again. If you burn out the fuel in the burner the stove will operate normally. If the code continues I would look at the hook up for the air and exhaust to be sure they are correct. If they are backward it can cause an EE10.

Keep us posted,

Tom

If your fuel was yellow it was #2 home heating oil. Toyotomi Laser heater run well on #1. Since yours in giving you a EE10 message you are going to have to open the burner and clean it, the blower and the heat exchanger. The air holes are blocked on the burner and it takes too long to burn the fuel up, EE10.
This is a dirty job but not that difficult. Try toyotomiusa.com/ and use their dealer locator. You should find a dealer in South Dakota that will be able to get you some gaskets you might need.

Good luck,

Tom Hawkins
[email protected]

I see that you say your fuel is clean but igniter failure is commonly caused by tiny drops of water hitting the hot igniter. A sign of this is small pin holes in the igniter and a pinkish color. You could check the voltage on the ckt board where the igniter connects. I think it is 120vac but I don't have the manual in front of me. Excessive voltage could burn it out alsl. You need to clean the carbon deposits but be careful not to destroy the burner mat. You would have to take the combustion chamber apart to do this. Check you igniter gasket, this could be the cause of the smell. If you can take the top off of the fuel sump, look in there and make sure there is no water contamination. Let me know what you find.

What do you mean by a while. Look at the serial # for your heater. It will end in H,I, or J. If it ends in H and stops in 20 sec. then you have a problem with the rotation sensor and the blower may need to be replaced.
I it ends in I or J and stops after 300 secs then you have a problem with the rotation sensor and again it probably needs to be replace. If you want to purchase a blower email me with the serial # for your heater and I'll send you a price. [email protected]

It's likely that the burner mat has came loose or it has a lot of carbon buildup in the burner. Look at the flame when the heater is on. It should be mostly blue with slight yellow tips. You might need to clean the fuel nozzle also. You can remove the fuel pipe where it connects to the burner and use a piece of wire or an allen wrench that will fit in the nozzle that goes into the burner to remove any carbon that may have built up. You can also clean the burner but don't destroy the mat in the bottom. You can find the owner's manual at toyostove.com and it will give you some more things to clean.