20 Most Recent Asko W6221 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

check the outlet connection to the plumbing drain, could be blocked!

Try lowering the drain hose into a bucket to drain it, this make "trick" out the sensor and allow the door to unlock

CHECK UR WATER PUMP PROPELLER FOR OBSTRUCTION, CAN U TURN THE PROPELLER BY HAND? CHECK FOR BLOCKED HOSES, IF PUMP IS ELECTRICAL TYPE THEN CHECK WITH A METER

CHECK WATER INLET VALVE AND THE WATER TEMPERATURE SWITCH WITH A MULTI METER FOR OHMS

110 VOLTS?

HAS SHOCK ABSORBERS WHEN THEY GO BAD ONE SIDE CAN LEAN ALSO CHECK FOR BAD OR LOOSE BALANCE WEIGHT. LOCATED NEAR THE MOTOR. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

No spin, try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Check if the lock is binding or the door switch is not being operated.

Not normally. Most manufacturers supply boards complete and ready to go in to replace a dud. Unless you know an electronics whiz who can identify what component(s) have failed, you are probably better off and reliability wise, to get a replacement board.

Programmer issue I would guess

Sound like it could be some "dirt" in the "air-trap-tube", so the machine dont get the signals that says it's empty. This also can also make problems for filling. This "air-trap" is the plastic tube, mounted upwards on the bellow hose, between drum and pump.Could also be a pressure switch, or pressure sensor problem, but this is not very common:)

I had same problem,checked heater element was good (27 ohms).I then removed top cover and inspected connections all look good. then I lifted control circuit board and found soldered connection for heater relay was melted.I need a new control board.