20 Most Recent Asko W6441 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Could be cycle timer failure

I am in Australia so my comment relates to that OZ power supply. The first thing I’d do would be to check the pump to eliminate it as the problem. To do that I’d disconnect at the supply end of the pump’s electric cable and make up a 3 pin plug patch lead and supply power to the pump directly through an RCD protected outlet, and see if the pump works independently of the control board. That would confirm the pump is ok and not going to earth (which would trip the RCD.)
Do the water inlet solenoids come off that board? Because if they are, and are mains voltage, check them the same way. Check everything that comes off that board at the appropriate voltage independently.
There will be temp and water flow and drum-wobble sensors which will be low voltage and all need to be independently checked at the right voltage for each to eliminate them as the problem.
A digital multimeter checking the sensors probably won’t do any damage (blow them up).
Visually check the board visually for any burnt or blown components. Some boards have a thermal fuse in the circuit.
Asko should be able to supply the circuit for the board and it’s values. NZ Govt has legislation that compels Asko to provide this info. We got a new board from Asko NZ by post.

Hello John, Welcome to FixYa. I can provide you with an Asko service manual that should guide you on how to remove the panel and anything else you may like to do as well. The service guide I have is an Asko W600 series ( that includes yours ) from Asko in "pdf" so I could attach it to the email address you provide if you give the go ahead. I'll watch for your reply. Regards, Macmarkus :)

The factory program in its default settings which cannot be changed. You should however, be able to use the control panel to reselect what temps etc you want to wash , but this will have to done each time you wash.

google this with the model # and the brand along with the F4 error code

as its a front loader a few things can happen i think you need to take the top off the machine and using the plug for the mains and a DVM meter {cheep } use ohms setting like 20 or beep or both and then from the plug follow the mains from the plug to the supply inside the machine examine where the cable goes in etc look for 'open circuit ' lines if the two likes connected accross from mains in to inside doesnt beep the wire is disconnected L N should power on lines enable your shure to track it down this way ... machine dont have internal fuses i think its a chopped cable cracked board or loose plug rule out the obvious and what ever left must be the truth it could have even just knocked off a plug on the main controller.....pcb {underneath at the back right ..}

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE; LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.

Please refer page 12 and 24 in the washer manual to find out how to open the locked door. You have to press the door open button for 3 secs at end of cycle. Asko Front Load Washer Use and Care Guide W6021 W6441 W6761...