20 Most Recent Maytag MSD2456G Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 4 Questions & Answers

you need either a temperature control #66005516 or more probably a new auto damper # 61005989 they ar both in the back at the top of the fresh food section under the plastic slide control housing they are easy to replace be care ful and take your time disassembling and reassmbly will be much smoother.
go to apdepot.com and enter in the model number etc and you will se a blow up of the unit itself under controls.

Is the freezer cold enough? Should be close to 10 degrees.
Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water.
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

I know this is late but I will tell you that most times the water control valve on the rear of refrigerator is the reason for the ice maker not to refill. Yours uses a part number 61005626 dual water control. One side for dispenser and the other side for the ice maker. You may test the ice maker to insure that it works by filling with tap water. Let freeze and if it dumps the then ice maker will try to refill after each cycle. If the water control valve works it will refill. Let me know if you still need assistance. Thank You, Sea Breeze

On side by side models, make sure that the condenser is clean and that the condenser fan is running, clean, and has good airflow and that the back cover is in place. Check for any kind of heat source in the freezer section, like a light staying on or the ice maker mold heater not shutting off. Some heat source is most likely causing the heat thing and is something staying on all the time could blow the relay. Just some thoughts. Hope this helps and best wishes.

The chute where the ice drops through could be icing up, try removing the I bin and cleaning the ice build up out.

This sounds like the water line from the icemaker and the cool water reservior inside the refridgerator side. The line is a rigid plastic hose and could be a leak at one point that is small enough to allow water to run along the line. Also sounds like you have a humidity problem. Check the door seals and wipe them off and apply a thin coat of die-electric grease to the seal. this will help keep it pliable and soft.
The water in the bottom leaks into a trough that is made into the fridge. This usaully evaporates, This is for the auto-defrost. It keeps the water from getting on the floor.
Check to see if the outer door gets hot at the edges. If not, It may not be auto-defrosting.
I would first check the water line first as this seems to be a more serious issue right now. The line is probably loose at one of the connections between the ice maker and water reservior.

I have the Maytag Service manual for your model if you have adobe on your computer you will be able to save it. It is 118 pages and complex, but may help answer some of your questions. Sea Breeze
[email protected]

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

well first the icemaker valve and water despensor valve a separate so you might want to try but to change it out you have to change both valves cause they made together then also check and makes sure your tube is not froze up and if that aint it then change your icemaker now for a little tip the icemaker will not run as long as the freezer door is open

take out your ice bucket and clear all frozen water out of it only cubes should be in there if you have had a drip for several weeks you may have a big chunk in there possibly wrapped around the screew

I can help with the puddles on the floor. Most likely your freezer drain is plugged. This site and others on the internet helped me solve my problem. Take off the back shroud and empty the freezer compartment. Take the screws out of the lower grate at the back of the freezer compartment. You can get the lower panel out with a little effort. The freezer coils are exposed. Below them is a kind of small light metal trough with a drain hole in the middle. You don't see it at first because it is covered with ice. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. When it melted enough I removed a thin cake of ice to expose the drain. The drain was still frozen until I poured hot tap water in the trough several times. Inside the back of the refrigerator on the right is a little rubber coupling that connects the drain tube from below the coils and metal trough at a right angel to a tube that runs to a drain pan on the low left side at the back. After taking the coupling loose so I would not damage it, I put a thin screwdriver down through to finally unclog the drain. I recoupled the drain line, wiped up the floor and put everything back together. Everything works. Saved at least $150 and it only took about an hour. Oh, yes, the small hex screws on the back and the inside grate use the same small socket screwdriver. A lot handier than using a pair of pliers.

The click is not normal. The compressor is not starting and is tripping the overload. There is a chance the start relay on the compressor is shorted, but most likely the compressor will have to be replaced.
Unplug it for several hours until the compressor cools down and then try it again, if it starts up ok when it is cool the compressor is the problem for sure.
If it is less than 5 yrs old the compressor is still covered by warranty and will be replaced free of charge.

• the water(in the bottom of the freezer) is coming from the freezer when is defrosts. the drain line is in the back wall of the freezer and may be clogged up with ice. clean out the freezer and pour some hot water in the very back of the freezer, this will hopefully unclog the drain. if not, then you have to take the back wall out of the freezer to get directly to the drain line. there should just be a couple screws holding it; it is just an aluminum or plastic panel.
  
• and
• the icemaker problem
• it could be that the water valve is slowly leaking water into up to the icemaker and freezing before dripping out of the tube. then when the icemaker turns on the water to the icemaker it is partially blocked by the ice and sprays water all over instead of gently falling into the icemaker.
• if this is the case then changing the water valve on the back of the machine and defrosting the fill tube behind the icemaker should fix this problem.

check to see if the direction of the water flow is correct on the filter

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, what would be recommended/explored would be:

• test the power at the outlets used by the Maytag;
• any other kitchen appliance using the same line or circuit breaker;
• was there anything untoward prior to the fault, power interruptions/fluctuations;
• if power outages is pretty common, you may need to purchase and install a power on delay device.

If the above initial posting has merit and should you need additional information, pls click on my "Ask Me". Alternately, postback here how things turned up and to explore your additional options or rate this as you see it fit.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Very usual issue - defected defrost control unit - replace it and keep warranty paperwork from part supplier. :))

We also had the exact same problem with our Maytag side by side. We kept getting a small puddle down on the floor under the freezer side of the unit. There was also a giant ice block puddle that had formed on the inside bottom of the freezer compartment. We solved the problem in about an hour. First, we pulled the unit out from the wall and checked behind and underneath the unit with a flashlight. The little drip pan that collects the water was completely dry. That told us that there was a plug somewhere in the drain line. We removed all of the food and shelves inside the freezer so we could access the inside, back panel. My husband unscrewed the two bolts and removed both panels. We found the problem. The drain pan had frozen and all of the water was overflowing inside the freezer compartment and ultimately out onto our floor. There was also a giant snowball around all of the wiring. We used a heat gun and gently de-iced the snowball and the ice in the drain pan. The manual also says you can use a hairdryer for this. Then, my husband used his air compressor and gently blew into the hole to clear out the blockage. We checked behind the unit again and saw that the clog had released and water was flowing into the drip pan. Problem solved. It is important to get the clog out of the drain line so that the problem doesn't occur again. We put everything back together and everything seems fine now. I am also going to check the defrost timer to make sure it is timing properly every 28 minutes or so. You need your manual for this to determine steps to check the timer. It is important for the timer to be set correctly so that the unit goes into defrost mode every 28 minutes. This will also help keep the water flowing and draining w/out having time to completely freeze up. The original root cause of our problem is we had a faulty ice-maker. It had overflowed about 3 months ago. The heavy surge of water, and the small plug in the line is what started this. Another problem we have had with this unit is the plastic tubing in the back. We had one of the lines turn yellow and crack. So every few months we pull the unit out from the wall, vacuum underneath and check the plastic tubing for leaks and breakage.

Hi,

Please CLICK HERE to view a detailed illustration of parts picture of your model and just scroll your mouse over the diagram.

Water can leak from these areas:

The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door
The back of the refrigerator
The inside ceiling of the refrigerator
The inside back wall of the refrigerator
Underneath the front of the refrigerator
The bottom front of the refrigerator or freezer door Self-defrosting refrigerators usually dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates. (See a more detailed explanation of this in the How Things Work section of our website).

If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.

In some refrigerators, the defrost water is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain--usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.

Another cause may be the following. The refrigerator may have doorframe heaters to evaporate any condensation on the cabinet frame. If your refrigerator is equipped with a switch inside that says “energy saver” or something similar, while running in that mode the door heaters are disabled. Turn the switch to the opposite setting and wait 24 hours. If the condensation disappears the problem is solved.

The back of the refrigerator Water coming from the back of the refrigerator usually comes from either the ice maker water valve or line (if there is an ice maker), or from the defrost drain pan.

Here's what to do:

• If the water is coming from the ice maker water valve, check to make sure the water tubes are attached properly and are fastened tightly.



• If the water seems to be coming from any part of the valve itself, replace the valve.



• If the water appears to be coming from the defrost drain pan, inspect for holes or cracks, and replace the pan if necessary.

The inside ceiling of the refrigerator Water accumulating on the ceiling of the refrigerator is usually caused by a clogged drain in the freezer section beneath the evaporator. The clogged drain will cause water from the self defrost cycle to leak into the divider between the freezer and refrigerator. This water may then freeze and cause condensation build-up on the refrigerator ceiling. The solution to this problem begins with unclogging the drain. It may also be necessary to remove the entire freezer/refrigerator divider to thoroughly dry the insulation in the divider. Occasionally the insulation needs to be replaced to prevent a recurrence of the problem. This can be a big job – you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

The inside back wall of the refrigerator In some refrigerators, the water from the defrost cycle is intentionally directed down the back wall of the refrigerator, where it then flows to the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and out to a small drain - usually located beneath one of the drawers at the bottom of the refrigerator. If the drain becomes clogged or blocked, the water may back up. To fix this problem, clear the obstruction.

Underneath the front of the refrigerator If the refrigerator is equipped with a water dispenser on the freezer door, check if the water line to the dispenser is leaking. Also, check the drip pan to be sure it isn’t out of place, broken or cracked.

Check and make sure the drain pan under the refrigerator is in position and the drain hose is in the pan. If it misses the pan it will put water on the floor.

What is the entire Model # and I can help with some troubleshooting as long as you have a volt-ohm meter and an amprobe would be helpful.