20 Most Recent Maytag Admiral Top-Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Sounds like a blockage in freon lines or a freon leak.

Do you have the refrigerator model number? A photo of what you see? http://appliance911seabreeze.com/ Contact Me Here

The drain behind the panel at the rear of your freezer is most likely plugged with ice. The easy fix would be to transplant your freezer goods to another freezer, unplug the fridge and leave the freezer door open overnight.

If the freezer keeps on working, but is not able to go below the desired temperature, you should check if the freezer is able to go this low. If it does, it might be ice-forming inside, which acts merely like a thermic insulator. So if there is ice, remove it carefully. Best is to let the ice melt, by unplugging the power, and put a pan with boiling water inside. Ofcourse you need to remove all stored items / food of the freezere, before you do this. Store them in special bags (those bags with aluminium foil)Another source can be leakage of the cooling-fluid. This is difficult to tackle, because it means most of the time : look for a new refrigerator.

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OK that tripping of the breaker does not sound good. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze [email protected] HVAC Ohming Compressor Windings

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned warmer which makes REF. colder or vice versa.
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
First I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
PLEASE GIVE A TESTIMONIAL AND VOTE FOUR THUMBS UP IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

While your condenser grill could cause your refrigerator not to coil effectively, and could cause some of your problems - if the compressor is kicking on - then it wouldn't be all of the problem.

It sounds more like you have an ice build up behind your freezer panel, which is blocking your thermostat and cooling tubes. Which probably mean that your defrost circuit is malfunctioning. Which could mean either the defrost heater, timer or defrost thermostat.

You should also check to see if your circulating fan is operating also.

Is the compressor making the noise or is it the fan motor that is making the noise. If the compressor then you are looking at over $500 for replacement and you will have to decide if your refrigerator is worth that type of investment.

But if it is the fan motor, then you could replace it yourself. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5170333 Item 11 is the fan motor and you could replace it. The compresson is item 1 and would require a trained person to replace it.

There could b excess ice build up inside causing door to drag. Try unthawing the freezer.

This can be caused by frost accumulation on or aroundthe freezer fan Icing . And due to this no cooling will be in fridge compartment.
Unplug power and . defrost it. And after some times, switch on fridge.
This is due to auto defrost switch malfunction. keep temp setting at 5 degree and check auto defrost (if your fridge having that option) is working. If not you have to replace PCB. Thanks.

I just answered the same question so I've copied you into it hope you don't mind.
A common problem to this is the damper (vent from freezer) is bad or just stuck open, try defrosting it and adjusting the position so that you reduce the amount of cold air going into the fridge, hopefully it'll just be stuck in the open position and you well have no further problems. Always here to help.. Richard.