20 Most Recent Maytag UMV1152BAS Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

If you look at the hooks sticking out of the door you should see two "L" shapes. Those are attached to a spring and you should be able to move them up and down. I think either the spring is broken, or an end of one of the L's is missing. Those L's enter the machine by sliding up and over a ramp and then down to engage the door switches. If the switches are not engaged, well, that would duplicate your unit's symptoms. It is a replaceable part, and not very difficult. If you do need to order one of those parts, you will need a correct model number taken directly from the MW, plus the first two digits of the serial number.
Hope that helps you.
fil

Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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The magnetron (the part that heats the food) may be bad or the circuitry to the magnetron may have burned out. Basically my advice is that if you have no electrical expertise, it isn't worth fixing. The magnetron if bad, costs almost as much as a new microwave. If you open it up (make sure it has been unplugged for a few hours and don't seen any obvious burnt parts (including a fuse and the diodes), then most likely the magnetron is done and a new microwave is the way to go.

Let me know how this works out for you.

Benjamin

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

An overheating magnetron can be due to:

• operating oven without cover(s) in place
• wrong magnetron installed in oven
• an old or otherwise failing magnetron
• cracked magnetron magnet
• improper power line voltage (should be 110-125VAC)
• foods low in moisture (popcorn & bacon, e.g. - add 1/2 cup of water in rear oven)
• failed or inoperable cooling fan or hood vent exhaust fan
• deteriorating foam weatherstripping seals in air ducts or on outside cover
• blocked air vents (dust, animal nest debris, insufficient free air space behind & around oven, etc.)
• clogged or greasy charcoal filter or grease filter
• blocked duct in hood vent exhaust

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

It is vital that the cooling fan runs, or the magnetron will be destroyed. Repeated shutdowns like this are endangering the magnetron, assuming it's not bad already.

Your owner's manual will cover checking the filters and will cover warranty terms. The magnetron may still be covered.

If for some reason you don't have your manual, you can download it here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:- bad door switches or door switch mounts- loose connection at the magnetron- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozkHere are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:http://www.microtechfactoryservice.comhttp://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/cap_test.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/diode.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/mag_test.html
http://www.microtechfactoryservice.com/xformer.html
We\'re happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Magnatron is suspect. Need to put a voltmeter and see if the input (primary) side to the high-voltage transformer (big heavy iron thing in there) is getting 120Vac. Don't touch the other (high voltage) side of this transformer. If the power is there, you are looking at replacing the magnatron. Its affordable if you do it yourself - buy the part on EBAY - lookup "universal magnatron"

On my Microwave it saying e5 on it and it not reheating it self

Take it in for service. It is nothing that is straightforward, https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Have you checked inside the microwave? Usually they have the manual hidden in there.

Replace the faulty door switch.

one of micro switch could be bad or the main board issue is there

Hi, My research came up with a shorted keypad (shorted key). The part number I came up with was W10258190 this is for stainless. I hope this information helped. Good Luck I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

The SE error code means you have a shorting membrane keypad.

you would need to replace either the membrane keypad or the control panel frame assembly, which comes with a new keypad already installed.

unfortunately, those parts for this model seem to be unavailable. So the only option would be if you can find a used or "New Old stock" part on eBay or at a local or online appliance parts store.

If you can find either of these parts, that will fix your microwave:

DE94-01386S ASY CONTROL-PANEL (STL)

DE34-00233N SWITCH MEMBRANE (BLK)

The support page for your microwave is here, where you can find manuals and a helpful exploded view part diagram.

https://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=MMV5207BCS&siteCd=WHRCOM&userType=Consumer

Good luck.

Replace the MW

The service manual for model MMV5165 is here at my Web site.

Chances are you have an issue with a door switch or door switch mount. See my help files here: http://www.microwavecontrol.com/safety.htm http://www.microwavecontrol.com/disassembly.htm http://www.microwavecontrol.com/doorsw.htm If you need further help, e-mail me through my Web site (above) with your full model number and detailed symptoms.

Maybe on control panel or inside door.