20 Most Recent Maytag MMV5207A Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Are you programming it for 2:00 or just pressing 2, then Start?Try resetting it by unplugging it for a couple of minutes, plugging it back in, then setting the clock and trying again.

"SE" means you have a shorting membrane keypad.If I knew the full model number of your oven, I could give you advice.Feel free to ask here.

Hello there,When your microwave oven starts to zap, then eventually does not heat up, it means there is a problem inside the unit of the microwave. There are some parts to check inside the microwave before you can tell the exact component that is faulty and to know if replacement will do the job for you.The three (3) main parts to be tested are the power diode, the high voltage capacitor and the magnetron.But since all other components are working like the fan, light and clock, then it is most likely the magnetron. Here is how to test and replace the magnetron of your microwave.HOW TO TEST THE MAGNETRONBefore you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit. Magnetron replacementHave a certified and experienced appliance repair technician examine and replace your magnetron. This task is much too dangerous for the average layman to perform on his own. Hope this helped.Elect_Comp

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

These folks have it, as well as most other parts. I use them a lot.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

If the microwave works normally but no heat is being made, then the magnetron is faulty.

Hello :

It seems that there's a problem with the power transformer or the power PCB . Or it could be just a fuse . You need to check first . If it's the fuse , then that will be easy to solve , you need only to replace it with new one . But if the problem is with the transformer or with the PCB , you need to take your microwave to the service for repairing .

To locate the fuse, remove the outer cabinet of the unit, which is usually held in place with a few screws. Once the outer cabinet is removed, follow the power cord into the unit. It will take you to the fuse holder, where the fuse sits. The fuse holder is located two or three inches into the unit, and may be attached to a power board .

CAUTION: a microwave oven is capable of giving you a serious electrical shock, even when it is unplugged. We strongly suggest you seek the assistance of an appliance repair technician when conducting any microwave oven repair.

Please rate !

That's covered on page 24 of the owner's manual.

If you've misplaced yours, you can download it online here.

If you need to order a bulb or other part or accessory, visit here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

well its not very hard to do,,, but,,, what caused the fuse to blow?
what fuse has blown as there are at least 3 of them in there, none of them are the same size as a 13 amp plug and most are of the slow blow type,,, even the hight voltage fuse!!! (ei:1000's of volts!) if a fuse has blown its most likely to be the unit getting near the end of its life, and sufferd whats called a "flash over" maybe on the capacitor or the megatron both would pop a fuse, but it will only do it again!! and that next time it could go with a big bang and stink your house out for weeks with a burning smell!!!! and if you dont know what not to tuch inside of this microwave dont go inside of it, it could easly kill you, even with the plug pulled out the wall scocket, there will still be 1000,s of volts kicking about inside of it,,, whats your life worth??????
microwaves are only £50.00p up now,, play it safe buy a new one

Go to the following site and click on "Door" in the subcomonent list. You can purchase the latch mechanism and repair your microwave
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd;jsessionid=2SOgGSa9NKCBf5EZ+1AlmQ**.shcapp3106?modelNumber=MMV5186AAS&pop=flush

-SE- error means you have a shorted membrane keypad.

You have a shorting membrane keypad. If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

(If not, please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.)

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



If you would like to have us do this repair for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs.

On some models, the membrane keypad is not available as a separate part, so you would have to order the control panel frame assembly which comes with a new keypad.

In this case, you simply move your circuit board into the new frame. That is a simple do-it-yourself job.

Please reply back with your full model number and we can tell you if yours is one of these models, and if so, we'll also give you the part number you need to order and a link to the best priced supplier.

Either way, we can let you know what your options and costs would be and send you other helpful info.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you. Once we have all your information and offer a final solution, we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

I have the same problem- funny when we built we went all Maytag and got a bunch of lousy handles- the stove, micro, fridge, and freezer... I glued the pieces of the handle together and used plumber's putty to fix it. It's MightyPutty, but without the repackaging and cost. Just knead the putty until mixed, fill the cavity of the handle and press on the door where it was... No problem after six months so far.

No, you would need to do a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for maybe an hour.

You have a bad secondary interlock (top door switch) or its mount is bad.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.