20 Most Recent Maytag MAV3855A Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

It sound like lint bult up under agitator orIn Between inner and outer tub it would have to be manualy cleaned thanks and good luck:)

If the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Here is a link to the part you need.

The outlet solenoid valve is either stuck open or there is an erroneous signal from the control unit being sent to the valve. Disconnect the wires from the valve (with the unit disconnected from the electrical outlet) and try to fill it. If it still runs through, inspect the valve to see if it is stuck or jammed open.

White smoke coming from the machine, it was in the middle of the extended cycle. stopped machine and unplugged. Smells as though something burned.

Usually the first repair a Maytag washer needs is to replace the belts. They can wear out and smell.
The belts are located on the very bottom of the machine. They are not covered. If you pull out the washer about 2 feet and lean it back against the wall you will see the belts on the bottom.

If they have shiny parts, or one of them was sticking. You will be able to see if it is burned.
I've made a diagram to help.
The "main drive pully" is the belt that is most likely to be burned. It is also possible for a clothing item such as a baby's sock, to get caught in the pump. That being the case, the pump belt can burn.
If you replace the belts, which you should do if the machine is 10 years old. You must replace them with Maytag belts. This is important, because they are designed to allow some slippage. If you replaced them with belts of the correct size but not the right type, the machine will not work properly.
Of course, the machine can have electrical problems, but it is rare. Let me know what you find and I can advise you further. Happy New Year, Mark

Tilt the washer back and take the belt off. Turn the drain pump pulley and you will probably find the drain pump bearing is bad. You will need to replace the pump. Check your belt also it may need to be replaced from the extra wear from the bearing failing. This is the most likely cause of the whiring.

If you are not trained to work with electric do not attempt. You will need to put into agitation or the cycle where it is supposed to be agitating and measure if you are getting 110 V to the windings on the motor. If you are your motor is not reversing and it is bad. If you are not getting 110V chech all wiring connections from the motor to the timer. If the wires are good you have a bad timer (which is the most likely cause. I have seen this condition a couple of times and in both cases was the timer.) USE PRECAUTION.

no belts in a washer just a tramsmision it could be going out

I believe your machine is equipped with a "snubber plate" under the transmission. A lot of Maytag top-loaders are. This is a white teflon ring that is used as the wash tub and transmission support and assists in dampening vibrations during the spin cycles. It's located on the inside case of the machine under your transmission. When the snubber goes bad they generally start to squeak. They cannot be lubricated and must be replaced. If you try to oil them, they will eventually disintegrate. The snubber costs less than $10 to purchase. I hope this helps.

well..that would certainly make it sound better. you might want to check the bearings and belts first though..

not even water going into unit???? with power to the unit you should at least get water into it at very least,

Check first the filters on the cold inlet water line (both sides). Then, if problem still exist - check that the cold inlet water valve works(it is an electromagnet valve, located at the pipe's entrance to the machine)). If it doesn't work, test that it get power. In case it get power and doesn't work - You can easily open the valve and clean it (from scale or other dirt). Be aware you should disconnect the power cable from machine before doing it !!!! Check as well for valve's coil resistance. In case you have no resistance measurement - you should replace it for a new one. Good luck

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+MVW7232HW0+top+load%2C+error+codes+and+condensation+on+control+panel ..

Troubleshooting chart-

https://machinecompanion.com/maytag-neptune-washer-not-draining/

The label should be at the back where the power goes in. The label is supposed to be not able to be removed (strong adhesive or metal and riveted. There may also be a service manual and wiring diagram in the top console. Pictures and mentions here, but no model details. You could also try emailing Maytag. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+ensignia+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles You can upload pictures, but we know what the machine is because of your excellent description. After more searching it may be MDE4806AYW although it says 12 cycles? https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+%22ensignia%22+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles+manual ..

I found this reference on the web ... from a repair technician on a Maytag Maxima>>> So I'm really sorry to bring you this bad news, but let me explain your error codes. F06 E02 is a communication error between your MCU (motor control unit) and your CCU (central control unit). You'll want to remove the top panel, the control panel, and then the front panel of the washer and make sure the wire connections to the motor control unit below the tub are all secure. If everything checks good, you'd need to have the MCU replaced. From a different reference on a similar Maytag MHW6000XW2 ... also indicating communication issue Usually ... hidden somewhere on the inside of the washer you will find the service technician paperwork which has all sorts of additional detail. Helpful? Good luck on your troubleshooting!

Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.

Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.

Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.

Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.

Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.

Could be as the spin starts it overloads the fuse ..... not sure without more information though.

Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked. I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day. Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet! ..

If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.