during the process of moving your dryer, it sounds like the drum became dislodged. With the dryer off, open the door and try to move the drum by hand, if it sounds like something is 'dragging' them the drum is off its bearings. IF it is, the quickest way to get help to take it apart is go online to youtub, type in your dryers name and model number and ask how to replace drum
Hello, If the timer doesn't advance on the auto, dry setting yet it advance on the timed dry setting regardlee if it heats or not the timer is fine and not advancing due to not heating and not problem with the timer. The not heating is probably going to a broken heat element it was the most common thing on the Maytag dryer from that Vintage of dryers. To check it UNPLUG DRYER remove front panel by removing the two phillips headed screws from the lower part of panel by that sligh step back in the panel.The heater will on the right side of the base frame in a tube.On the leftside of that tube will 2 wires that go into it remove those,3/8" socket to remove the brass nuts,use a ohm meter and place each lead on were those wires went and check for around 30-50 ohms,if the meter displays OL the heater is broke, This youtube vidoe will cover some of what i have already went over and show you how to remove and restring the heater,pause it at the 1:30 mark for a real good of when restringing how it is snaked through as shown the in video the part number is Y133538 it could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or on line at ;repairclinic.com assuredparts.com apdepot.com appliancepartspros.com
Good luck,i hope will help you to fix your dryer, Gene
Many dryers use rollers or wheels to support the clothes drum. When these rollers are worn, they can be noisy. You should replace the whole set of rollers at the same time. Dryers have a tension or idler pulley that keeps tension on the main drive belt. When it's worn, it can be noisy. When that happens, don't lubricate it. Just replace it.
This is a simple dryer to diagnose. The limits and heater or mounted in the lower left corner of the rear bulkhead. Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel. Remove the 2 screws holding the element and get it out. (only two wires to take loose) Get it out and check it for continuity between them two connections or simply examine the heater for breaks. If all of that is ok The cycling thermostat might be whack. If all of that is good and you have 240 volts at the receptacle then the timer may have a burnt contact inside
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Go to www.maytag.com , then click on owner center, then enter your model number into the search box, then you can download and print it off if you want or save to your computer.
Good Luck !
You could be right libby. If you know how to locate it and remove it,,take it out and test it first,,dont just buy one.They CAN be tested. The element heats up due to a dead short of current,,just like setting a wrench on a car battery and touching pos and neg together. With a electric meter set to (contenuity test setting) Hold one test lead on one side of the element input,and the other test lead on the other side and if its a good element you will hear a steady tone from the meter telling you that the circuit is (closed) or,,being completed. If no tone then circuit is (open) and the element is bad.
what you need to check is the gas coils
but i can tell you your hold coil is bad
they sit right on top of the gas vavle
you can order them idividually but i would reccomned replacing both as a pair http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4047607
if you have the 2706
this is the part you should replace
it is very easy to do and should save you money on the service as well as mark up from the part
Unplug the machine and check for a blown thermal fuse. It's located just inside the rear of the dryer and is usually attached to or near the exhaust duct. It's about one inch long and can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity means a blown thermal fuse. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
Hopefully, the moisture in the air didn't affect the timer. You may want to put some WD 40 on it. I would check all the wiring first. I assume you reset the breakers, checked the receptacle, especially if it is near the floor. Look under the top and near the drum and check the thermal overload.
Valid
Most likely the problem with your dryer is the coils for the gas valve. Remove the access door (on the bottom right side on the front panel) and you can see the gas valve with three coils on top of it. They are coming as a kit with complete instruction. The part number for this kit is AP2669614.You can buy it here http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=SrmyP8LkIos&offerid=92089.542517043&type=10&subid=
JustAnswerhttps://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair
Jul 21, 2017 - The way it works is that power from the heater goes to the motor so that the heater can't heat unless the motor is running.
1 answer ยท Top answer: The buzzer is not actually controlled by the timer. It's controlled by the centrifugal switch ...
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The limits and heater or mounted in the lower left corner of the rear bulkhead. Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel.
Remove the 2 screws holding the element and get it out. (only two wires to take loose) Get it out
and check it for continuity between them two connections or simply examine the heater for breaks. If all of that is ok The cycling thermostat might be whack. If all of that is good and you have 240 volts at the receptacle then the timer may have a burnt contact inside 
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
