20 Most Recent Estate TT18TKXKQ Top Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

You may have a defective defrost timer, it is the common reason if the refrigerant pump is working and there are no refrigerant leaks.

Is the compressor kicking on at all?

I\'ve been struggling trying to keep our 2 goldens dog hair from the coils of our 8 year old Kenmore side by side with "W" compressor coils, but like everyone else was unable to clean past the first set of coils.I came up with this solution that worked to get much of the big stuff, hair and bunnies, off of the further back coils. Not perfect but much better than nothing.Removing the back lower panel I was able to snake a crevice attachment from our vacuum down the right side of the coils (left side looking from back)Looking from front"I made a compressed air contraption to blow the dust/hair across the coils using a compressed air nozzle that I added a 10" long tube and a 90 degree deflectorFrom the front of the fridge, on the left side of the coils, I snaked the compressed air nozzle towards the back and started directing the air stream blowing towards the vacuum crevice tool at the opposite side of the coils.The compressed air dislodged the hair/dust enough that the vacuum was able to suck it away. Again, not perfectly but certainly much better than I was able to clean the coils in the past.I suppose you could use a can of compressed air and add some sort of deflector if you don\'t have a compressor.I then got to thinking how to prevent the dust from accumulating on the coils, I\'m going to try an air conditioner filter. I cut it slightly oversized to fit the front opening then split it in half to make it thinner for more air flow. Picture taken before making the filter thinner. For years I had my calendar remind me monthly to vacuum the coils but now hopefully I\'ll be able to simply change the air filter.

in the freezer behind the back inside wall of the freezer there's an evaporator fan motor that could cause this if you were smelling this inside,there's also a condenser fan motor in the back bottom of the machine that blows when it's running,pull out the machine,remove the bottom back panel and check the fan motor to see if any oil is leaking out of the motor.

Where is the water coming from? How much water? Is the freezer working?

Hello there,
The refrigerator is actually having a faulty component in it that is why it is not getting cold but having ice build up at the back.
The component responsible for such problems are the defrost thermostat, defrost heater and defrost timer. Have them checked and then replace the component that is found to be faulty.
You can go through these tips if you intend to fix this yourself.
Defrost thermostat http://www.fixya.com/support/r10513592-test_defrost_thermostat http://www.fixya.com/support/r10513650-replace_defrost_thermostat
defrost heater http://www.fixya.com/support/r10523771-test_defrost_heater http://www.fixya.com/support/r10523754-replace_defrost_heater
Defrost timer http://www.fixya.com/support/r10523722-test_defrost_timer http://www.fixya.com/support/r10523742-replace_defrost_timer
Hope this helped. All the bestElect_Comp.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

fdsjd

the drain line is clogged causing the ice build up .the frig has to defrost every 6 to 8 hours so every time it defrosts is when it will leak ..you will have to defrost the frig manually ..turn it off. open the doors. let it defrost. remove the thick ice on the bottom ..after its defrosted take the bottom an back panel off.. un plug frig first !! drainline is in the back in the middle of the freezer. unclogg it hot water or shop vac be carefull good luck!! drain line should go to a pan under the frig, in the back make sure it drains before putting back together

This would not be normal. Whoever if the fridge is running and keeping good temperature I would have to say that it's likely that something was spilled in the fridge. If it's struggling to cool then you might have a damaged refrigerant line, and this would most certainly mean an emanate fridge failure.I suggest that you clean and replace the drip tray, and inspect the inside of the fridge for any spilled materials. I would also suggest that you look closely for any small rodent **** like mice. Mice can carry food and use this dark place for a home.

if you are talking about the defrost control, it is located inside the refrigerator probably close to the light at the top behind a plastic panel. There is normally a hole where you can insert a screw driver to advance the timer.

if you are talking about the defrost heater, it is located inside the freezer at the back wall behind a panel and under neath the evaporator coils along with the termination thermostat.

It is leaking due to a clogged drain line between the bottom-rear of the freezer section and the drain pan underneath the refrigerator. Remove cover in the back of the freezer section. there will be a small drain pan under the cooling coil. Remove ice, defrost with hot water and clean/blow the drain line.
Good luck!

generally means defrost drain is clogged. take out back panel and bottom tray in freezer check to see if there is ice build up ,if so drain is clogged remove ice and run hot water over drain hole carefully run a clothes hanger into hole until water runs through.

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat....

low gas in the system

without a model number we cannot tell if the tray will come out or not. Some do and some don't. If you can get a rag in there to soak up the water you can do that and then put some bleach in the tray to keep it from stinking again. It should evaporate off.

hi friend
it is fan problem check it....it may also be a thermostat not working proper,,check them both ,
thank u,,,,,,,,

found this.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_DKNtgd5vI If you have a Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate or Kenmore defrostable refrigerator, that is leaking at its bottom and building up ice, you may have a plugged bottom drain line. This video will show you how to unclog this line. hope it helps.