I looked at the washer drum online and the holes seem pretty small there are (from the outside looking in some groves that it may have gone thru.}
Have you taken a flash light and with someone else rotating it {drum) by hand gotten a general idea of where it may be sticking thru by sound? then looking closely at that area for a protruding bit of wire? then grabbing i with a needle nose pliers or a wire cutter and pulling it out? I'm not sure how technical you are cuz taking it apart to get to the drum may be a challenge.
Hope this helps you.
you can maybe stick your head in it and look for screws to undo..... but you're probably gonna need to take the whole front panel off... (maybe all 4 !) ... flip it on its back and look underneath for screws to remove.... same on the back..... if you manage to get the front panel off.... you should be able to see how the door is held on.
It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in
most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a
washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most
important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If
you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and
fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you
look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at
the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing
resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged.
Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the
drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power
to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened
properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be
replaced. If there is intermittent power
to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a
spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there
is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check
this link for tips:
I am not 100% sure your problem is the same as the one i had with my frigidare front loader but my door lock switch went bad. it would wash fine but when it came time to spin it only would tumble.
First, try leveling the feet, making sure that each one is bearing down at the same pressure.
You might have weak shocks, or just a weak floor. Try replacing the
shocks, or just adjust the feet to ensure they all are making contact
with the floor. If this dosn't work, you might have to strengthen the floor with a 1 inch piece of plywood screwed down.
Then, make sure your load is evenly balanced. Using a conventional
top-loader, for example, any large single object should be balanced by
another similar object or several smaller so that when it spins it is
not wildly out of balance.
With a front-loader, try reducing the spin setting from Maximum to Normal or Normal to Moderate and see if that helps.
We have two LG front loaders.
Both of them shake heavily on Maximum, but settle down nicely on
Normal. And the one on the concrete floor shakes much less than the one
on a wooden platform. But the key is getting them level and all the feet
bearing properly at the beginning.
As you said in the question you are using Euro Tech EWF 150 you are washing machine have problem with the belt.Belt will be damaged you just need to contact the nearest washing machine center so that you are washing machine will be just fine.There is no big problem it's just a small problem.If you no how to fix that belt means you can fix the problem.Thanks for your question.
The issue is with the door lock assembly that is bad and
should be replaced. If the door lock assembly is bad the control will sense
that the door is open and so will not start a spin cycle. If you want you can
test the door lock assembly with a voltmeter before replacing it. Hope this
helps...please post back for further assistance.
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer manual' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct ;-0)
If you are after a service manual you may find that the manufacturer provides only to its service engineers ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Spares Suppliers
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) washer spares' and you should be presented with a number of sources from which you can order. Alternately you could try telephone directories for spares suppliers but I would think the former would be more successful.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.
check your wiring to the door lock assemby as well as check the water valve in the rear first assuring that you have water to the valve then assurinig that water does go past the valve. one questions though what made you replace the motor control board and the wiring harness did you have the appropriate error code please message me back with your finds as well as any further questions you may have Thanks again Rick
You have to replace the whole door seal.It can be done through the port hole,difficult but achievable or you can strip the front of the appliance off and do the inner part easier.
Unplug the appliance.
Open the door and take the seal retaining ring out of the door seal.
Peel the door seal off the front panel and fold it inside.
Take the seal retaining ring/spring out of the tub side of the seal.
Pull the seal off and take it out of the appliance.
Fit the new seal to the tub,look at the seal and tub for matching arrow marks to help align it.
Fit the retaining ring/spring into the groove in the seal and over the lip of the tub.
Fit the seal to the front panel and then fit the retaining ring into the seal.
Restore the power to the appliance and leak test it.
If you find you can't get the seal on.
Take the top off the appliance.
Take the dispenser out.
Take out the screws revealed.
Take out the screws holding the door lock.
Take off the plastic cover below the door and remove the screws revealed.
Take the front panel off.
If the panel won't come down and off there will be a hidden screw that requires the facia panel to be removed.It's snap together plastic,just release the catches and carefully remove the facia.
if you can pull the lid up or a panel off the bottom to expuse the back side of the lock there should be some sort of plastic cord comming from it. that is a manuel unlock---pull on it hard. im sure you have tried unplugging it so it could try to reset its self
if your gettig hot water on rinse.your fill hoses are not correct.rinse is only cold.switch the hoses.if that dosent solve the problem call for warrenty
If your dishwasher's cycle times are too long, check these:
Water pre-heating Cycle not completing Water pre-heating Your dishwasher may pre-heat the water. If so, and if the water entering the dishwasher is cool, the heater may take up to half an hour to heat the water.
To avoid the wait, increase the incoming water temperature before turning on the dishwasher. Do that by running the kitchen sink faucet until the water runs hot. Or increase the temperature of the hot water to the entire house at the hot water heater.
Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
