20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher - Page 9 Questions & Answers

This could mean a lot of things depending on what the last state of the dishwasher is. For a double dishdrawer unit it could mean the power to the top unit has blown. But more commonly there is a water leak causing the flood switch at the base of the dishwasher housing to trip. The leak could be due to damaged lid seal, cracked hose or using very strong detergent which causes foaming. Assuming the power to both the drawers is ok. Let us work on the flooding problem. Remove power to the dishwasher (take power chord out). Extend the lower drawer out and use towels to mop up the base (under the drawer, hard to get to). Then take a hair dryer and run it inside. Give it an hour or so to fully dry and connect power and try again. Good luck.

The lid actuator motor is stuck which may be causing the lid seal to obstruct the movement of the drawer. If the problem is still there then first thing to do is try turn off the mains power at the switch and push the drawer in. If this does not work even when you turn the power back on, then post a reply. Normally I would not recommend trying the diagnostic sequence unless one is familiar with working with appliance controllers. This is a very sophisticated dishwasher and any wrong sequence in the diagnostic can either damage the dishwasher or cause flooding. Best to leave it to the technician.

Hi,

I had the opportunity to work on a Fisher & Paykel DD632 dishdrawer a couple days ago. By the way, I am a big fan of Fisher & Paykel equipment--if you ever have the opportunity to work on one, you'll see why. The engineering is elegant in its simplicity. Well-engineered equipment is actually much easier to work on because they have designed serviceability into the product.

Anyway, the problem with this particular dishdrawer was that the top drawer (with an 11 minute wash) was giving an F1 error code after the initial rinse, about five minutes into the cycle. The F1 code indicates an overfill condition. One of the most common causes for an overfill fault is that the dishwasher cannot pump out the dirty water due to a plugged drain hose.

So, I put the dishdrawer into diagnostic mode and tested the fill and pump out functions--everything was peachy. I ran the top drawer in a normal wash cycle and, sho 'nuff, the drawer faulted out on F1 after the first rinse. Well, Houston, we had a problem and it was time for the Samurai to break open a can of whup-*** on this dishdrawer. First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer.

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.

With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gook us. None found--my quest continued.

The next step to remove the bottom drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the bottom cover panel removed:

Fisher Paykel DD603 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.

With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms.

After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.

I had a flash-back to my Navy days and heard Petty Officer (AT1) Crowe's voice in my head, "Here, take this ruby red eraser and clean off them contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. Good to go, Sailor." You gotta understand, Petty Officer Crowe was my technical guru in the Navy--he taught me many of the practical and theoretical troubleshooting skills that I still use today.

So I cleaned the contacts as instructed by Petty Officer Crowe's mental image in my brain and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.

OR ,if this is not the case next thing to look for is
If you have problems with a plugged drain hose
Dishwasher Drainology

Your dishwasher sounds like it's working up a storm, draining all that yucky dirty water out, but you open the door and all that dirty water is still there. Houston, we have a problem. OK, grasshopper, go grab you a cold one and hang on for a magical mystery tour into what causes dishwasher draining problems, also called the ancient and mystical art of dishwasher drainology. Let's take 'em one at a time:

* Using Too Much Detergent
Some fancy dishwashers with electronic controls have sensors that detect when the pump is not pumping water. Using too much detergent creates a great head of foam in the dishwasher basin, like pouring a beer too fast into a glass. So if you use too much soap in one of these so-equipped dishwashers, the sensors think the dishwasher is empty and cuts off the pump (For you gadget geeks out there, it senses the pump work by using a sensing resistor in series with the motor main winding.) While we're talking about detergents, that store bought stuff you're using is screwing up your dishwasher
* You Forgot to Remove the Disposal Drain Port Knockout Plug

# This usually only applies to the situation where you just installed a disposal and connected the dishwasher drain hose to the drain port on the disposal. Believe it or not, this happened to me on my first disposal installation job, too...no, not really. But I have seen many a grasshopper stumped by this.
# Drain Solenoid Not Opening
Some brands, notably GE/Hotpoint and Magic Chef, use a drain solenoid to open and close the dishwasher drain port. If this solenoid isn't opening during the drain cycle, could be a bad timer or solenoid.
# Worn Pump Impeller
Other dishwashers, like Whirlpool and KitchenAid, don't use a drain solenoid but instead reverse the motor to drain the basin. One possible reason for poor draining in this type of dishwasher is a worn pump impeller. You usually figure this by elimination...no, not that kind of elimination you dawg! I mean, if all the other suspects listed here check out OK, then you've got a worn pump impeller. The rebuilding kit for this repair is very inexpensive and is a great beer drinking project.
# Kinked or Plugged Drain Hose
Drain hoses can become kinked or crimped from poor installation, stuff being moved around, lots of reasons. It happens.This page on drain hose configuration shows you several approved drain hose layouts. Drain hoses can also get plugged from gookus. Plugs usually occur at the one of the drain ports--either on the dishwasher or at the other end. The best test is to take the drain hose off at the dishwasher and pucker up and blow like a fish. Yep, it can be pretty nasty putting your mouth on that stuff but, hey, that's why we appliance techs make the big money.
# Air Gap Plugged with Gookus

Plumbing codes may require an air gap in your dishwasher drain hose and many houses have 'em. These air gaps do a great job of keeping sewer water from backing up into your dishwasher but they can become a source of problems, too. Sometimes, they'll get plugged with gookus and they'll need to be cleaned out. If it's real bad or corroded, do yourself a favor and install a new air gap kit.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Might be able to help you sort the problem. The wiring diagram is part of the service manual and therefore hard to find on its own.

see the causes and fix it : God bless youNo water Entering Dishwasher Check to make sure water is entering the dishwasher do this by starting a wash cycle wait for it to fill and start washing then open door. If there is no water you will need to check the water inlet valve and the float switch. This video will walk you through checking both out. Click on links to see a photo tutorial of replacing those parts. Low Water level This is another common problem. To check that you have the proper water level you will need to turn dishwasher to a wash cycle wait for it to fill, when it starts washing stop and open the door. Now refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper water leve. They usually refer to a fixed point in the dishwasher or to a specific measurement. This ensures that your dishwasher has enough water to wassh properly. If your water level is low you will need to check the water inlet valve and the float switch. The video will walk you thru inspecting and testing these components. The links will lead you thru a photo tutorial on replacing these parts. Wash Arms First check to see if they are moving. To do this start dishwasher into a wash cycle wait for it to fill and start washing open door and rotate wash arms to a certain position remeber this position then close the door let run for a few seconds and open door. If they are not moving check to see if they turn freely if not replace. Next remove the spray arms and check for clogged holes. If all looks clear you will need to check that the circulating pump is not clogged up or has failed. Drain Problem This is one of the most common reasons. To check open door after a cycle and check to see if any water is standing inside. If there is you have a drain issue. Could be the high loop or air gap is not correct. The drain may have a clog. The drain pump may have failed. The drain pump can be checked for the proper ohm reading (refer to tech sheet). If it is out of specification replace the pump. Check to see if the drain pump is getting power. If the drain pump is getting power but not running you will need to replace. If it is running but still leaving water behind you will need to remove the drain pump and check/replace for obstructions. Control This is the least likely cause.Check to make sure it goes to each cycle for the proper amount of time. The main control or Timer has a pre determined amount of time programmed into it. This determines how much time to spend at each cycle. The time is usually printed on the tech sheet. The tech sheet is located somewhere on your dishwasher. It could be behind the front panel,behind the console, behind the toe kick, somewhere on the sides. If it does not stay at each cycle for the proper lenght of time you will need to replace the control.

see this video for help:God bless you

see this video. God bless you

There 2 possibilities with this error:1)

• Fault with water fill (only on machines with level-controlled fill)
• Note: Lights blinking, pump running and controls dead indicates an over fill fault

2)--4 Flashes--Draining failure. Drain pump, control board OWI or water indicator defectGod bless you