20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I don't know if this will help. I had to work on Fisher & Paykel two draw dishwasher. The one problem was one draw would work but the other wouldn't. There is one board for each draw and one board in the base. The board in the base seem to be the power supply for the rest of the machine. I don't remember the model number and it has been years ago. Getting to the boards was not easy. I did the swap the two draw boards and the problem didn't move. So whatever the problem was it was in the draw. I found Fisher & Paykel had design the heating element as a resistor to drop the 110 VAC down to a voltage the logic/controller board can use turn to Dc voltage to run board. The problem I found was the heating element had opened. There was no power to run the board. Later there was also a cable problem the confounded the repairman. He had to replace the draw harness. My really big problem is the heating was on the ground side of the logic/controller board. The logic/controller board was on the 110 VAC side. So that if the heating element opened the logic/controller board would be floating up to 110 VAC. So any meter measurement on the board show 110 VAC. Even touching any part of the board and any part of washer you can get zapped. So be careful. It should the other way around so the board is at the ground side and heating element on the high side. If the heat element opened there would be no power to the board would be at ground level and no shock problem.

I read the instruction manual as it was a lot cheaper than asking you guys.

the top spinner is just clipped on. if you look at it you will see the cut in the plastic and it will just pull off. clean out the spinner and in the hole use some pipe and blow down it. on first cycle it should empty the dirty water out.

help

Hello,

This indicates the flood switch has been tripped. The video in the link below explains how to access and repair single and double drawer fisher and paykel dishwashers. Its a really good Fisher Paykel dishwasher repair video it really helped me.

Fisher Paykel Dishwasher Repair Video Link

What item are we talking about? Is this a dresser, a CD player etc. Need make model and serial number etc. Thank you.

Hi Aaron...
You wrote "I had a F1 problem that I cured by blow drying the control board"
I see techs on other sites telling people to "blow dry" the mains filter board (which has the flood sensor and controls lid motor operation) and it always makes me wince.
F1 is a flood condition. All you do by drying out the board is stop the machine from trying to tell you something is wrong with it. There is a reason why the board got wet in the first place. You won't cure anything by simply drying it out if there is an underlying condition causing a leak.
On your dishwasher, as you may or may not be aware, the lid is controlled by two motors that pull the lid down onto the top of the drawer in order to provide a seal. If, for some reason, the lid either does not come down on one or both sides or something is interfering with the lid's mechanical operation, the machine will leak, and the flood sensor will trip. The machine will appear to "go on by itself" and run the drain pump constantly.

The cure is to determine what happened.

Some possibilities:
1. Improper loading:
When someone places a tall dish, utensil, etc in the wrong position, it will "prop" the lid ajar when the lid comes down. A gap of even 1/4" can cause a leak. It is in cases such as this that drying out the mains filter board (yes it is called mains plural) will restore machine operation, as it was a temporary issue that caused the leak (More on this later).

2. Broken hose link support strap:
On older model 603's, there is a nylon strap that guides the hoses and wiring harness as you open and close the drawer. Over time, this strap can break right in the middle. What happens next, is when the drawer is closed, the strap gets caught between the lid and the drawer's edge, causing a leak. This is easy to see if you dis-engage the tub clips on the drawer rails and slide the drawer forward enough to see the strap behind the drawer. In a case such as this you can blow-dry that board all you want; it's not going to do much good, as the machine will leak again as soon as that strap gets caught in the lid. The fix is to replace the broken link support with the updated kit from Fisher Paykel, which is a part number 528437. You can purchase them here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=242&category_id=58
On double-drawer machines, I always replace both straps, even if only one is broken.

3. Worn or inoperative lid actuator/motor:
As mentioned, the lid is motorized. There are two motors, one on each side of the drawer. They can become worn mechanically, or they can fail electrically or fail to operate because that mains filter board is not sending the signal to one or both motors. The machine's main control board (the one where you select cycles) can also cause a problem.
There should be a detailed tech sheet behind the drawer (lower drawer on double units) that has instructions on how to put the machine in diagnostic mode and you can run the lid motors with the drawer open and check if one is not coming down. And again on older 603, the lid motors can stop working correctly. If they are tan in color, replace them with the new style, which are black in color and have rubber boots over the arms to keep water from running down the shafts and into the motor. Part numbers are 528112 and 528113 and are always changed as a pair. Lid motors can be obtained here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=240&category_id=58

Bad or damaged Mains Filter Board:
This needs to be read over carefully.
On older 603's there will be a GREY colored plastic cover over that board. This is a tipoff that you have the early model. The underside of that board in the area of the flood sensor is uncoated and the solid-state components are exposed to moisture. Over time, calcified deposits build up around the edge of the board on the side where the flood sensor protrudes. These deposits can cause a "phantom F1' condition where the machine thinks there is a leak but there isn't one. Whenever I speak to a customer on the techline who says "I am sure there is no leak but the F1 is activated" I tell them to examine the underside of the Mains board for these deposits. The other thing to be aware of with regard to "blow drying" the board, is that it will warp and sag in the center and this can break the tiny solder joints and cause all kinds of problems for you. The most recent version of this part has a nice, thick almost rubberized coating over the bottom of the board and it's much more durable that the first versions. it also comes with a WHITE colored plastic cover and this is how you can tell if you have newest version of the board. You always should replace the grey cover with the white one. You can get the updated part here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=248&category_id=58

I hope this info is useful to you.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/PUMP MOTOR/DRAIN to work when it is commanded .If this does not happen then the voltage at these points must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage/drive from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor. The water pressure must be good and the spraying must be seen to be good. If there is low pumping or pressure then the spray arms will not turn around to inject with pressure. If so the pump must be checked for clogging. Since the machine seems to hang up after the main pump starts this must be checked. remove and clean all sections, check inlet flow and drain , check water pressure .

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/dishwashers/a/3

http://www.espares.co.uk/search/dishwashers/p/1083

Thank you for using Fixya.

The problem is hard water. www.dishwasherfilter.com has a product to solve this problem once and for all. It filters the water going into your dishwasher and removes the hard minerals that leave those spots. It is very affordable and even has a money back guarantee. You will love the way your dishes look with this product.

You also need to repair the solder link (over-temperature fuse) in the heater plate (or replace the whole heater plate). The drawer control board gets its power via that link.

Still need your email to send you the service manual

check your kitchen drain as it might be blocked or if you have a garbage disposal (kitchen insinkerator) make sure it is cleared before running the dishwasher.

I drilled holes in the soap block, covered it in water - 6 hrs later it came out when I tried to drill more holes - be sure to clean the drill bit.

check the waste hose is not kinked or blocked. otherwise replace the rotor at the bottom of the drawer. this can be accessed by unscrewing the panel at the bottom of the drawer.

Have you removed the drawer? Checked the rollers? Reinserted the drawer correctly?