20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The 2nd and 4th and spin light were on.
Thanks for your help.
Vickei

If power is getting to the machine and the screen is blank it's likely that a fuse or a circuit has failed. This could be because another component in the machine has failed and caused the main controller board to overload, or the main board itself has failed.
Either way you should call a F&P tech, so that the board and/or the other components can be tested. If you replace a main board without checking the rest of the machine it's highly likely that the same fault will cause the board to fail again.
A tech from F&P will warranty the work and save your investment.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but absolutely the best course in the long run.
F&P machines are easy to work on and test, so the job shouldn't take too long.
Good luck....Nomess

Hi,
Here is a tip about how to clean your washer

How to have a Clean Washer
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4356970-clean_washer

heatman101

Hi just read your posting.Now have you removed the cold water hose from the machine end and checked to see if there is water coming from the hose?Do any fault codes appear on your machine when the cold water is not coming in?Have you or can you borrow an electrical test meter to test the coils of the valves to see if they are faulty?Please reply with additional information on these questions and I am sure I can help you rectify this fault.

Hi just read your posting.Now what water temp are you using for you wash cycle?Is it cold , warm or hot?Problem could be your cold water valve not opening enough or your motor controller.If you selected a COLD wash how fast does your cold water come in to the machine?Please reply with additional information on the questions and I can help you rectify this fault.Looking forward to your reply.

Hi just read your posting .Do you still require help?If so reply back and I am sure I can help you.

Code 37 means the pump is not pumping the water out. This may be the result of several things. For instance ask yourself what did I just wash. In our case, we had just attempted to wash a bath mat with crumbling rubber backing. Apparently the pump picked up the little pieces of rubber and they became impacted in the valve underneath. I was a lead aircraft mechanic for United Airlines and have dealt with some of the most sophisticated machines on the planet. I have always been impressed with our Fisher Paykel IWL16, the salesman sold us on the functions of this machine. He also told us about the technology incorporated into it. The elimination of the transmission and other moving parts and that FP had incorporated the philosophy of the minimum moving parts throughout the machine. So, I might have been a little intimidated about working on it because it appears to be very sophisticated. That is until I laid it over on its side and took a look underneath. My mouth dropped open There are 4 moving parts. The motor assembly that is connected to the drum and agitator. The water pump which siphons the water off the bottom of the tank and a 2 way valve that directs the water back into the tub or overboard. There is probably a fill valve in there somewhere that is at the top of the tub. Anyway I decided to try the 2 way valve first. Make sure the you have fully disconnected the machine before trying any of this. First I disconnected the two orange wires off of the 2 way valve and pay attention to which wire goes where (mark one with a marking pen). Then Squeeze the clamps on the three hose connections to the valve and back them up the hoses. Take one more look at how the valve is installed because you could put it in backwards. There is a screw and clamp holding the valve to the bottom of the tub. Remove the screw. Take the hoses off the valve and remove the Valve. Look inside and you will probably see what ever is blocking the Valve. Don't go digging around in there since there are O'ring seals on the flapper door that could get damaged. I used the eraser end of a pencil to clear the junk out of it. I then rinsed the valve out of the rest of the junk (take care not to get the electrical motor and contacts wet. They are covered with a clear plastic cover for a reason. Make sure the ends of the hoses are also clear and then reinstall the valve, hoses (3) and the (3) hoses clamps, Clamp and screw to the whole assembly to the bottom of the tub. Connect the two Orange wires to their respective connections and wha-laa... your done. Flip the washer back up and connect it up to the hoses and plug it in... Run the Machine through the tub cleaning cycle and that should do the trick... If this sounds like it might be difficult, it isn't. Tip over your machine and look at it before you call the serviceman and you might save a couple of hundred. The water pump also looked similarly easy to replace... a new pump is 98 dollars. I love my Fisher Paykel

If no light has come on when you switch machine on you will have to check for power at the socket and then make sure fuse hasnt blown in plug.

Hi just read your posting.Now you said in your posting it does not drain before the spin cycle, but does it drain before the rinse cycle?Does your machine stop and beep and show an error code in your LCD display or if you have the other model a series of lights?Have you tried advancing the cycle to spin and pushing the start button?Please reply with additional information and I can help you track down this fault.

Hi just read your posting.Now at what stage of the cycle does the fuse blow?Is it when it is filling,or draining or washing or spinning?Please reply with additional information and I can track down this fault for you.

Hi just read your posting.Is the black marks oil or lint?Has the machine been noisy on spin?If the marks are lint then try this !--Buy 2 pkt of Bicarb of soda. 2--Select high water fill.3--Select hot water fill. 4--Pour bicarb into empty machine.5---Push the start button. 6--Let it fill then wash for 5 to 10 mins. 7--Turn off the machine and do not let the water that is the machine drain.8--Now the machine sit overnight with the water that has bicarb in it .9-- In the morning put it throe a complete cycle and it should be free of lint and dirt.Please reply if you need further help or if the marks are oil.Looking forward to see how you got on.

Hi just read your posting Now if the machine is still full of water I need you to bail out some of the water by hand with a pot or bucket.Bail out just enough so you can look under the machine to the front right.You should see a pump with a red or black fan attached to it.If you see this pump try turning the fan clockwise and anticlockwise a few times to loosen it just in case it is jammed.Then put it back on its feet and select a spin cycle and push start.Hopefully it starts to drain.Please reply to tell me how you got on or if you have the pump with no fan attached.

Hi.

If the washer does not drain or spin, then check first the drain hose, that is the most easily accessing part.

You will probably find that the hose is not kinked or clogged. Proceed to check the hose attached to drain pump and filter, ensure that there is no lint blocking the tub.
After that check the lid switch l. F&P lid switch has different position, and different lock for spin. The lid switch is tested by jumping it.
If that is not the problem, check the pressure switch. try blowing into the pipe attached to the switch. The switch is tested by Ohming it with tub full and empty. This test is a bit complex. The part is not expensive, better replacing it after the above test fine.
Before replacing the switch the pump must also be tested by energizing.
If the above does not fix the problem, go for the timer board.

See the service manual below to locate parts and to get detail on procedures.

See also: My washing machine does not drain.


Here service manual:


517751 Smartdrive Series 11 Phase 6 Service Manual

Hi,
The code 131 indicates Rotor Position Sensor Error. The Motor Controller has found an error in the pattern received from the Rotor Position Sensor. This code appears due to bad connection on the harness between the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Controller Module, or a faulty Rotor Position Sensor.
1) Check for corrosion on the edge connector of the Rotor Position Sensor and the Motor Controller Module connector.

2) Check the contacts on the Rotor Positional Sensor end of the Hall Harness to see if any have been damaged. (Each set of contacts in the socket has two wipers. If the distance between these wipers varies between different contacts, replace the Rotor Positional Sensor Harness).

3)Check the Rotor Position Sensor with an R.P.S. tester. Replace if it is found to be faulty.

Thank you !!

Hi just read your posting.Now in my experience on your model of machine when you get a burning smell it is usually the pump.When the machine is draining the water and goes to spin do you get a burning smell then?Please try to look underneath the machine to the front right.You will should see the pump with a red or black fan attached to it.See if has any evidence of corrosion or leaking.Please reply with additional information and I can guide you throe rectifying this fault.

The problem is most likely with the hot water valve being stuck in the open position. Disable the hot water valve buy disconnecting the wires from its terminals then start cycle. The hot water valve is indeed stuck in the open position if the washer still fills with warm water; replace the hot water valve. Reverse the water valves, if the washer fills with right temperature, by interchanging their wires then start a cycle. The problem is with the motor controller module if the washer still fills with warm water or it is indeed the hot water valve if the washer fills cold water with the valves reversed.

Hi just read your posting.Now if you look underneath the machine have you got the pump with a fan on it?It should be colored red or black.If you have this pump type the locking tab is on the right hand side of the pump looking from the front of the machine.If you have the other type it has two screws holding it to the base of the bowl.Hope this helps and please reply and tell me which pump type you have and if you require further help.

Unfortunately it will be one of 2 things that is stopping your machine from powering up 1st--The control module is faulty -2nd-- Your pump is open circuit. Now the two reasons that the control module became faulty are --1-- It faulted internally. and --2---There is a faulty part on your machine that caused the control module to fault. My best guess it will be the diverter valve.They have a wax motor in them that always faults and causes the control module to fault as well.Has your machine got an Efficiency button?If it has then the faulty part that could have caused the fault will be the drain pump,as this model has a mechanical diverter inside the pump.Please reply with the answers to the questions and i can guide you throe any repair that needs to be done.

Hi,

Since the service message might come due to any of the following reasons like wiring faults, water valve faults or programme control faults, I am providing you a link which would take you step by step troubleshooting to figure out the main cause.

http://www.washerhelp.co.uk/diy-repair-help.html


Let us know if you want to know something else accept the suggestion.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

CHeck the impeller underneath the machine is not blokced by a sock, clothes peg or dust bunnies - reach underneath and you will feel a 6 bladed fan about the size of a bathplug. This is what drives the pump that empties the machine. Give it a little spin with your fingers and it should start to empty out again