20 Most Recent Hoshizaki Freezer FH2AAC Questions & Answers

controller or controller probes are bad. It is reading 110 degrees so it never shuts off. Other issue could be the controller is not keeping unit in defrost long enought to clear the evap. I would start there first,.

any beeping? beeping says what problem it is having. Reset it while energyzed by pushing the button way back of the control board in the control panel section. The switch needs to be set to run and valve to normal position, full ice bin sensor may be stuck to full position, exercise the sensor flap. Post what you tried to remedy the situation for better help ideas. Trouble shooting instruction are included on the machine cover doors.

If you want the ice maker work. you will to pay for the repair, If you want you cam another company.. Or you can do nothing which is nothing

http://plus.hoshizakiamerica.com/techtips/pdf/im/IM-500SAA_TRAINING_MANUAL.pdf https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?723481-Hoshizaki-KM501MAH-Phantom-Off

How to repair

https://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/HOS-AM-100BAE_sm.pdf since your info is so limited, try this web site for the manual for your machine as see if there is anything that may be of some help to you.

http://www.hoshizaki.com/docs/manuals/IM-130_132_210_212_serv.pdf this web site from Hoshizaki does not show or indicate any wire for heating. See sequence on page 10. You may want to read thru this as this may help you understand how it works and what you may need to address. Let me know if I can be of any further help.

this is a large misconception of this unit. After a defrost cycle is completed, the display stays in "DEF" or "REC" until the box temp reaches 14 degrees of the "set" temp. So, if you have it set on zero, the conditioned space has to get to 14 degrees and then the display will switch over and show the temp. One way to verify this, is if the display shows DEF, check to see if the compressor is running, if so, then this scenario applies.

It appears that you have supplied the ice bin model number and not the ice maker numbers. Please double check your unit and see if you can locate those numbers.

When first turned on, the sump should fill with water. If it does, water solenoid is good. If you have a full sump, and no water pump running, sometimes the "Ice/Off/Wash" switch is bad. Put switch in wash, if pump runs, it's good. Now put in Ice position, if sump fills and pump does not come on and compressor indicates it is in the freeze cycle, replace that switch first. Simplest place to start and lest costly to fix.

If compressor is running, check the float switch. It may be stuck.

There is a "Dump Valve" that is stuck or has trash in it. Follow the small tube from the pump to the white plastic valve that looks kinda triangular with 3 screws. Remove the screw carefully as this is spring loaded. There should be a black rubber piece that is a seal. Pay attention to how it assembles. The spring presses the seal against an opening. Look for something that may be allowing this not to seat.

The machine, all in one, not indoor/outdoor split type, will make beeping sound when something is wrong and stops working until it is turned off and turned back on. Some times the machine needs to be reset with the power on, covers removed, reset button inside on electronic mother board.
The ice machine covers have instructions and information on beeping sounds.

with no model number, I can only answer this way: most all Hoshizaki machines use at bin thermostat to send power to the control board. If the thermostat is bad, nothing works. As long as you have the right power and no blown fuses, look at the bin thermostat.

http://www.hoshizaki.com/docs/manuals/KMD-410M_H_serv_LTR.pdf Try this site for a manual. The ice thickness is controlled by the float switch. Most all Hoshi machines have adjustable floats. It starts the harvest as the water level drops.

I have found that if the pump runs in the wash cycle but not in the ice making postion, the switch is bad. strange but I have had this happen multiple times.

3 beeps means freeze cycle too long. usually it's a stuck float or a water valve leaking most all the time. A low refrigerant level, weak compressor, bad TXV, or a leaking hot gas valve are usually secondary issues but not very common. In rare cases, the evaporator plates can separate from the refrigeration tubes. look at evap plates at the bottom and top and see if they are bowed or odd shaped.

with not model or serial numbers, I can only suggest that it may very well be the "bin stat". This is a thermostat that has a sensing bulb that is in the bin and senses the ice when it touches it to shut down the machine. If this is bad, no power goes to the control board. Try jumping this out with a jumper wire and see if the machine comes on.