20 Most Recent True Refrigerated Sandwich Prep Table 72" 30 Pan - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Generally when the overload starts tripping the compressor is telling you it has failed. There is a relay that plugs into the compressor electrical connections and a start capacitor that is attached to that relay. Its a relatively low cost adventure to replace those 2 components maybe 30 bucks at the supply house. Otherwise if the condenser is clean and the condenser fan is running and the component replacement doesn't help you're going to need to buy a new compressor. Hope this helps and good luck.

40 degree is a perfect temperature for produce if its lower that stuff will turn brown. Maybe you thermometer has failed. Go to the food store and get a red stick and put it in there. Then adjust with that temperature indication. Hope this helps and good luck.

You need to take that control to a refrigeration supply house and get the proper control replacement. Those are factory set. One is differential and the other is set for temp. The adjustments in the field just don't stay put and will fail after messing with them. Ranco has a book that the supply house has that will give you what you need and the part is generally on the shelf. Hope this helps and good luck.

Put a thermometer inside the refrigerator and once you get a stable reading turn the dial one number at a time. Give the refrigerator time to adjust, say 3 cycles before you check the temperature again. Keep doing this until you reach 35 to 37 degrees f. Hope this helps and good luck.

You need to evacuate and recharge the system with the exact critical charge of refrigerant. Make sure the control sensor is secure and in the right place. Hope this helps and good luck.

Either you didn't place the control sensor securely in the right place or you have an improper charge in the system. The evaporator coils get attacked by food acids and over time get tiny pin holes and leak refrigerant. The coil is unrepairable if that's the case. If an overzealous hvac guy put gas in it, the improper charge will keep it from shutting off properly. In that case the system has to be emptied, a vacuum put on the system, and a proper charge put in by weighing it in, in ounces. The charge is listed on the spec tag. Hope this helps and good luck.

The tag with the model and serial number states what the charge is. You might want to take a closer look.

Call true in St Louis and ask for factory authorized service. They have contractors on a list. Good luck hopes this helps.

Its hard to say without a model number but generally the plug harness that the fans plug into is not plugged in, or the evaporator is solidly iced up and wont let the fans spin, or the coil has a fan temperature switch that has failed. Sometimes the harness plug burns and the connection is lost. Best thing is to take the cover loose and follow those black wires and see where they go. I don't believe true ever had door fan switches on refrigerators. Hope this helped good luck.

http://www.true-residential.com/pageimages/Documents/24_Series_Installation_Guide.pdf Hope this will help.

Hi Joe, my name is Roger and i'd be glad to help you, i assume that when you refer to the fan on the bottom is the condenser fan motor. if that is the case, please check if the compressor is coming on or not. if the answer is no, then you are most likely having issues with your cold control or t-stat. hope this helps I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/roger_e8672cfe67bf61a1

This thermostat is no longer available so be careful. Not knowing the workings though why not the direct approach. Adjust one screw in one direction (my guess is ccw) and see what temp changes. I would think the two screws are for high and low limits. If you cant get it higher (with knob at max) try the other direction first and then the other screw.... good luck.