20 Most Recent Rangemaster Toledo 90 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

OK, here we go, this is actually a fairly lengthy explanation, but I will do what I can to explain.
The timer can be used to turn just one, or both ovens on and off automatically, however the start and stop time must be the same for both ovens, though different cooking temperatures can of course be set, so if you play around with temperatures to extend the cooking time of an item in one oven, you can often cook items needing very different settings for the fixed time you set in both ovens. Note that when the timer is on and the AUTO message is on the display, the ovens are disabled and will ONLY work during the timed period unless the timer is disabled again. (This is a common problem when you first power up, because the AUTO setting is automatically engaged on installation or power up after a power cut, disabling the ovens until you figure this out!). So, with all that garbage out of the way, how to use the timer settings:

For ease of understanding, I will refer to the buttons on the control pannel (Running from Left to Right as: BELL, HOT DISH, COLD DISH, HAND, + and -)

TO TIME SOMETHING THAT'S ALREADY COOKING (Minute Minder). Press and hold down the BELL symbol (Far left), use the + or - to adjust the amount of time you want to cook for (You can check time remaining at any point, or cancel the beeper when the time is up, by pressing the bell button.

TO STOP AUTOMATICALLY AFTER YOU HAVE MANUALLY STARTED COOKING. Press and hold the COLD DISH button at the same time use + and - to adjust your required stop time. AUTO will show on the display. When cooking is finished, the beeper sounds. TURN THE OVEN TEMPERATURE KNOB TO "0" FIRST, then press the HAND button, once to stop the beeper, and again to cancel auto and return to manual mode.

TO START AND STOP THE OVEN MANUALLY: Before you start, decide when you want the cooking to stop and how long you want the food to cook for (The cooker will work back from your stop time and figure out the START time for its self.). Press and hold down the HOT DISH button and at the same time set the minutes and hours you want the oven to cook for with the + and - buttons (You are NOT SETTING THE TIME HERE, you are setting how many minutes and hours to cook. Next, press and hold the COLD DISH button and use the + and - to set the stop time (YOU ARE SETTING A TIME IN THIS OPERATION). AUTO will show on the display. Set the temperature for the oven (or both ovens) that you want to auto cook with. When cooking stops the beeper sounds. Press the HAND button to cancel the beeper and press the HAND again to cancel AUTO and return to manual mode. (Note that the beeper stops after a while if you leave the oven attended, but the manual states you still have to press the HAND button twice to return to manual, I have not personally tested this).
GETTING BACK TO MANUAL MODE. If AUTO is showing on the display, because you have set automatic and no do not need it, or you have just powered the cooker up, any cooking time already set must be returned to 0:00 before you can return to manual, so hold down the HOT DISH button and ensure the display is set to 0:00, once you gave done this you can press the HAND button to return to manual mode

HOLD THE FIRST TWO BUTTON SON THE LEFT IN (BELL AND A STEAMING POT) FOR TEN SECS. THEN LET GO AND PRESS +. THE CLOCK WILL RESET AND ALL WILL BE WELL.. D XX

Hello Angela, does your cooker looks like this one? Then one of the very small buttons should be for the ignition. To replace that, you need to remove the control board, as they are screwed at the back. So work for an engineer. But I know a much easier way. Clean your button with brake cleaner, or thinner or something like that. Try to find the cheapest spray can with silverpaint. Be shure that you have covered all the parts that you do not want to be sprayed and only spray that part of the button that needs to be silver. Every one will tell you that you are an Expert. Good luck with it, Dik

No not if it has never had one fitted by the manufacturer as it wont have a safety device fitted to close the gas supply in the advent that the lid is closed while a burner is still a light which would shatter the safety glass and cause injury to the user. Some glass lidded cookers where imported to England when i was an apprentice gas engineer and no safety device fitted and the lids exploded and where soon made illegal.

I used to have the same range with 2 electric ovens, but it is available with the lower large oven on gas and the tall oven electric.

The manual for theToledo with tall electric and large gas oven can be found here:

http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/Siteimages/Site_311/BigMedia/Toledo90Gas.pdf

The manual for theToledo with both electric ovens can be found here:

http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/media/575792/toledo%2090%20dual%20fuel.pdf

The main product page for the toledo 90 can be found here:

http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/range-cooking/toledo-90.aspx

good day,
hope this link below will solve your problem.

ovens

This job is for qualified person. Is not recomadet to doit yourself.

I had a book written for you and remembered something basic I learned in electronics school and had to delete it all. Sigh. So with a smile I start all over and hopefully make this short. Are you certain there is a belt? Let's assume there is. A belt means a motor is spinning the belt which is spinning another pulley or "wheel". You could be correct that the belt needs to be changed. They stretch over time causing slippage. That is one way you hear "squeak". The other way which I hate and am dealing with on my car right now is the pulley or pulley's themselves. If you don't have a belt then your motor is directly running your fan. That means the "squeal" is coming from the pulley's bearings. Most fans I have seen come pre greased from the manufacturer and are not made with a hole to squirt a little inside. They are designed with an expected lifespan. That's another story though. The bearings get too dry and they begin to, well, drag. That drag is the squeal you hear. Your warning sign that pretty soon they are going to stop dragging and just dry up and stop rolling completely. When that happens you may turn your fan on and hear a hum but the fan doesn't work. To simplify this for everyone, the ball bearings inside no longer roll so the fan no longer spins. You may have a belt and two pulley's (or more like in a car) and have a good belt but a bad pulley. Most people throw away the product thinking it is no longer useable when all that is needed is to loosen a single screw in the middle of the pulley and replacing it with it's exact make giving the device another jillion years of use. Now for the conclusion. If you find that the pulley is the problem, go ahead and change that belt that has never been changed to save yourself from the squeal you will hear from that new strong pulley making that loose belt squeal. One last thing. Check by seeing if it wobbles when turned on or feels loose and slightly wobbly when turned by hand, with it turned off of course. Good luck.