if there is water in the drum it wont open, so you need to drop the drain hose low to gravity drain....then the door should open. sometimes this fault is due to a broken door catch utube is quite good for fitting help.
to get to it you need to remove the plug so there is no power to the machine????
take off the top
turn upside down ,
put the screws into the lid as you take them out
remove the dial screw at the back
remove soap dish.. 6 screws
unclip the door seal
take of the front 6 screws
follow the pipe from pressure switch down
there it is to take of and clean there is 3 screws
now you need a dumpy screw driver
you may have messed the lock up while the door was braking because of miss alignment-does the door line up now-you may have to replace the lock-cheers Denny
I can't believe you haven't heard about this.There has been a widespread issue with all front loader washing machines with mold on the door seals.i have heard that a wipe-down with bleach helps,but there may be other solutions that are better,maybe someone else on FixYa knows.
I think what was meant is that the water seems to overflow from the top side and so washes off the powder. This can be due to a improper setting or fault on the water level controller unit as it fails to detect and stop the water flows at a lower level.
You don't need to remove the pump (Or you shouldn't have to anyway) Here's a copy of my standard advice for this problem (Most hotpoint machines without a filter access door are covered in paragraph 3)
The empty cycle is timed and if it can't get all the water out in time because the filter is blocked and slowing the empty down, then it will fail safe and won't step on to the final spin cycle with excess water in the drum. Your repeat of the rinse/spin cycle is giving it extra empty time and then the spin works OK.You need to locate and clean the filter. Depending on the model (not sure which with the model you mention) there is either a round filter cap on the front of the machine at the bottom (It may be behind a small door or hidden behind a clip on panel on the bottom) or, you will need to access the debris trap from the back of the machine.If there is no filter at the front, pull the machine out and you will see a roughly oval panel at the bottom of the rear of the machine. Unscrew the 3 or 4 screws and unclip. Directly below the drum, you will now see a rubber "Cup" like bulge in the black pipe, with a plastic tube connected to a plastic pipe. The cup is held in place by a large jubilee clip. Unscrew the clip, pull off the rubber boot to expose the debris trap (A conical plastic cage with a ping pong ball in it) Take out the ball and the plastic trap, clean out the debris and replace the trap and the ball (Note that the cage may have a slot in it that locates in the rubber boot, make sure it lines up, or it won't reassemble correctly). Now push the boot back onto the fitting at the bottom of the drum where it came from and tighten up the jubilee clip, making sure that it is fitted correctly (it too may have a small slot out of it that fits around a protrusion on the bottom of the housing).
This seems quite likely to be a fault of the WATER LEVEL SENSOR. So since the pressure activated switch is not working even when the set water level is reached the water overflows.
Drain the water out of the washer and remove the level sensor which is located on the rim of the drum which has a tube feeding water to a pressure activated switch- the diaphragm could have punctured or failed on the switch.
You can bypass the switch by shorting to see if the machine starts and works , if so change the switch.
Yes. All machines, as far as I am aware, will have filters- to stop 'foreign objects' from fouling the drain pump mainly!
Following are my generic/standard instructions for filters (or lint trays as some call them).
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Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is normally behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
If you have checked that the drain pump is working fine then
the timer has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps...please post
back for further assistance.
I've got the same problem justnow. Read on another site that the reason that the filter wont come out is because of the amount of 'rubbish' that is behind it - best way is just wiggle it and hope that it eventually comes out (although sometimes this breaks it).
If you believe it is a bearing then the answer is no unless you don't have the proper tools. Second of all did you check if your machine is mis-align and rubbing to make that noise. Just a suggestion before you tear into the machine. Good Luck
hello theres a bad earth on the washer could be number of things. 1 the interlock on the door 2 circuit board fault 3 motor gone down to ground 4 bear wire touching the metal part of the washer. you will some 1 with an insulation tester to do a test also with power off check the plug socket for loose wires and the washer lead for splits or loose connecton hope it helps
