it sounds like door mechanisim has fallen off.remove the top of washer/dryer and look down the front to where the door catch shuts and see if there is anything attached to it.if not your have to reconnect it.Let me know and ill give ya more details
Have suffered the same problem. Suggest you remove back (after turning off electrical supply) and look at the water outlet pipe - you may have a sock or two in this - remember to reattach outlet and secure in position.
hi there what u can do is take your drain hose and place into a bucket water will come out the door will release now check the pump and make sure that it is not blocked up with anything if it isnt check the drain pipe that is under the washer in the middle of the drum there will be water in there but check inside if anything is inside there it will slow down the empty programme and will not let the door release do u live in malta then m8 as my dad is maltease and im half
several points.
did you put in transit bolts for move and forget to remove them?
is machine sitting square on all four legs?
is it sitting on a suspended floor? if joist spacing is wide, then this can result in vibration.
You can ususally take your Hotpoint washing machine out of DEMO MODE by holding down both the ON/OFF button and the START/RESET button at the same time for about 3 seconds.The display should then indicate D OFF.If this procedure does not work for your particular machine, then please just comment back and be sure to include the exact model number of your washer next time so we can provide the appropriate procedure for your appliance. Good luck.
The first thing to always try is disconnecting it from the mains plug overnight. Then in the morning press and hold the power button for 60 seconds. Then plug it back in. The is a Power Reset on a machine that has an electronic mainboard.
Does water enter the machine? My guess is that the water inlet valve may have failed. It waits, no water comes, so it times out. There are a few things to check there, make sure there is water in the pipe, make sure the strainer screens are clear in the hose connecter on the back of the machine.
No model details given but there is help in the link.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hotpoint+washing+machine+going+into+pause+mode
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads. if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etcBeware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and HYPERLINK "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU" replacing the lid switch is probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!