Magic Chef CYE4000AWW Electric Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The air flow housing under lint filter in door is most likely obstructed with lint or debris, or your fan that moves air is worn out.

I would have a look at the wires going to your start switch or door switch. Sounds like they may have come unhooked or broken.

Check panel for tripped breaker. Check with a volt meter that you have 2 legs of 125v to back of dryer. See youtube for demonstration of testing. Can you hear the timer run? It is pretty quiet, but is a ticking noise.

With an electric tester

In order of probable causes, most common to least common are:1) the door switch, that allows the dryer to start when you close the door, has broken or may even have fallen down inside the machine.They are plastic, and break easily.2) A fusable link/thermostat has failed inside or under the machine, not allowing it to start.3) A wire inside (under or behind) the machine has burned in two, needs repair.4) A connection has failed in the wiring where the eloectric cord is hooked to the back of the machine.5) The timer has quit.If you wish to fix it yourself, you will be needing several tools and a good testing instrument to find the problem. A letter to "fixya" could cause someone to walk you through the testing and repair, a step at a time. Be blessed.5)

You will need to replace the drum rollers. Here is the kit to order.

need the model # from the unit should be where the door closes to the CYE4000AWW is not a Kenmore Model

Look for a bad blower wheel; If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Your dryer has a thermal fuse about the size of a dime that is located near the element, if it fails the dryer will not start. The fuse can be bypassed for testing purposes only or tested for continuity.

Hi steveramputi...

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley, or a faulty motor.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.
Here is a link to see a picture of your belt routing in case the belt is broken when you open your dryer:
http://www.expertappliance.com/dryerbeltconfiguration.html

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you remove and lubricate the drum rollers.
And also clean the shafts of the rollers as they will collect hair,dust,etc and cause problems and then lubricate the shafts and rollers with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting dry and making a squeeling noise, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise.
You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
Please take time to rate me

Hi... I would get the Hi-limit Kit as well

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on what you're describing " push timer to start and nothing " the hi-limit thermostat is likely tripped/open.

The hi-limit is located under the top of the cabinet in the left rear corner attached to the heating element housing.

The replacement comes in a kit as shown here...part # LA-1053


You may find this link helpful for purchasing & testing the existing thermostats, but the new does come with instructions.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse-and-High-Limit-Thermostat/3344#repairHelpVideoTabs

Let me know if you need further assistance or directions and I will help in any manner I can. Good luck.

Thank you for choosing FixYa today.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Yes, you can buy belts at Sears.com
Here is your problem with the dryer...


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101
,,

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hello heartwoman. Use a thin blade putty knife to gently pry up the lid at that indentation about one inch below the top surface. Gently make your way around. Also, and most important: UNPLUG the dryer before you open it up. Joe

4 thumbs up please. ty

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.
If you have a front loading machine.
Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical consol with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.
Now is a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots or wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.

Please rate me

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. As you have already checked everything else then the issue seems to be with the Thermal fuse going bad needs to be replaced. It is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. Also, often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter, no continuity means it is bad and you need to replace it. If you have also checked this fuse already then the issue is with the control going bad and should be replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee