20 Most Recent Magic Chef 31000 Gas Kitchen Range - Page 7 Questions & Answers

If the glow bar is glowing and the oven doesn't come on in about 30 - 45 seconds.... it probably is the glow bar that needs to be replaced. BUT it could be the oven valve. Usually it is the glow bar.
The glow bar is wired in series with the oven valve and even if it is glowing it may not be sending the correct voltage through to the oven valve. To change the glowbar... unplug the appliance, unscrew 2 screws holding the metal bracket to the burner and remove the ignitor. You can cut the 2 white wires going to the ignitor and use ceramic wire nuts with the new ignitor.
Tom

there are a few possible causes but this is usually caused by a problem with the safetythermocouple

there is usually a thermocouple that is designed to be in the pilot light flame (it normally looks like a small metal cylinder with wires leading away from it)

if the thermocouple isn't hot enough, that indicates that the pilot light has been blown out or something, and it is no longer safe to keep feeding gas to the pilot light (it isn't burning so the gas could fill up a room and cause an explosion)

there are several reasons why the thermocouple might not be registering the temperature

1. the pilot light gas nozzle is partially plugged and so the flame is not as big or as hot as it should be and isn't heating the thermocouple (sometimes you can clean the nozzle with a pipe cleaner or one of these cans of pressurized air)

2. the thermocouple has moved (been bumped or broken) and is no longer in the right place to be heated by the flame

3. the thermocouple wire is broken or unattached at the other end

If it isn't the thermocouple, then it may be the gas valve itself which is usually not repairable and kind of expensive to replace

it could, of course, also be something else

good luck
thank u...........................

As the igniters age from repeated use, they can become weak and longer function properly. Just because they glow, does not mean they are good. If you are experiencing ignition problems, the following link explains a little theory about how these igniters work and how to replace one:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575727-replacing_an_oven_igniter_on_a_gas_range


The burner manifolds in the oven each use a glow bar or electrode type igniter with a gas safety valve to ignite. Both oven manifolds are controlled by the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board, which is your clock/timer on the control panel. If the surface burners work, but the oven does not, the problem is usually not a gas related issue. It can be a control board issue, but is usually a weak or failed oven igniter.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between these sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also offer helpful exploded view diagrams to help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.

If you have any questions please post back with a complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

good day,
hope this link below will solve your problem.

kitchen

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

Some of the models require you to push in the oven thermostat knob to set the pilot if it blows out. So try pushing in the knob and hold it while lighting the pilot. When the pilot lights continue to hold the knob in for about a minute. When you let go of the knob the pilot should stay lit. If it does not stay lit then try it one more time. If it continues to go out the thermocouple or aso might be bad and will need service.

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good "blue" arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

heatman101

Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

If the bake ignitor comes on - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor.
Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

Good luck!

Remove the back burners top lids and using a good blower jet and a good brush clean up the areas around it. this must allow the mixing of the gas properly. try to light. if this wont solve you will need to open the front flow controller, remove the knob, check from within after opening the top lid for the jet screw, open and clean and use a pin for cleaning. reset the flow controller after checking for gas flow into the flow controller. now set back and the burner should light up. Hope this helps you out. Good day

Replace the oven ignitor.

This is normal for all ovens.

Start time should be set to current time of day (according to the clock on the stove) and the stop time should be set for at least two hours later. This will allow the timed oven feature to work for the self clean option.
***Keep in mind that if the clock does not work you will have to shut the oven off yourself after the two hours is up!!***
Good Luck!

hello,

the below address will be one of the place you can order for your kitchen ranger

Address: 80 Ronald Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, M6E 5A2
Phone: (416) 785-7885

service day (Open): Mon., Tues., Wed., Fri., Sat., 9:30 – 5:30; Thurs., 9:30 – 8; Sun. 12 noon – 5 Payment Method: Visa, MC, Direct Payment, Cheque, Cash.
View Map: 80 Ronald Ave, Toronto ON Thank you and thanks for using fixya.

Do you have your owner's manual? It will tell you how to convert it to propane and what size orifices to use with each burner. Not all the burners are the same size, so you will need this info in order to install the right size orifices. The data plate on the oven, which is usually behind the bottom pull out drawer, will tell you what the BTU rating is for each stovetop and oven/broiler burner. If you don't have the owner's manual, reply back with the exact model # you have (it's listed on the data plate too) and I'll look it up for you. You will need a small nut driver tool to change the orifices. As soon as you provide more info, I'll try to help you further. Douglas

F1 indicates a stuck key or the ERC electronic range control has failed. The key pad membrane is more likely the problem. Check each key by depressing and feeling for it retracting, if any are stuck replace the membrane. Also inspect it for ant burn marks or defects. If all loooks good then replace the main control ERC. They are easy to replace. Enter your model # at www.appliancehelponline.com for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model.

If it is a sealed top, you will have to remove the cooking grates and center caps off the burners and set them aside. Unplug the stove. Each burner body has a numbers of screws holding it down to the top. Carefully remove the screws and unplug the ignition wire from each burner and set aside until all are free. Set them aside in an orderly fashion, so you know exactly which hole they go back to. The top is now free and should lift off with a little bit of effort. There are two fitted clamps in the front under the top, which will release the top with a snap, when you lift it up. You will not be able to completely remove the top, as it is still connected by wires in the back, so have someone hold it for you or prop it up to keep it out of your way. Use a soapy solution to check for leaks, which will bubble if a leak is found. Keep in mind, that you have removed the burners, so turning on the gas is pointless as it will just leak out the opening and make checking for leaks very difficult if not impossible. If you smell gas under the top, then you may have something visibly obvious, like a broken tubing or twisted and cracked tubing. If you can, without removing the top, you should be able to see the gas connection hooked up in the back, which is where you want to start checking for leaks before you even take the unit apart. Good luck.

Hello,
The first thing you want to check is if the small shutoff lever built into the appliance valve has been accidently closed. This appliance valve is either in the back of the unit or under the top near the back. When you converted the stove, you also had to convert this same appliance regulator by flipping the top. Look at it again and see if there is also a small lever on the outside of it. Flip it and see if you get gas to the oven. If that doesn't solve it, did you adjust the oven orifice down? Although some models do swap out the oven orifices, so be sure you used the correct size. Make sure you have enough air on the adjustable air shutter on the end of the burner tube at the orifice. Typically it should be open 1/2 to 3/4 of the way. Since it is a used stove, it may have a spiderweb or bug nest blocking the burner inside, so you may have to remove it to inspect it. Does the oven require a pilot? If it doesn't have electronic ignition, then a pilot has to be lit before the oven will light. If it does have electronic ignition, is it glowing orange at all? These things are a lot easier to trouble shoot when you're looking at it, so I'm just throwing out ideas for you to check. Hope this helps you. I'm a propane guy, so let me know if you need more assistance and I'll try to help you further! Douglas

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101