Top 20 Magic Chef CGR3725 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

Hello,

The part number for that conversion kit is 74009911 it could be ordered at searspartsdirect.com,
repairclinic.com,apdepot.com or by looking in your phone book and finding a appliance parts distributor in your area.
It will come w/instructions how do perform that

Hope this helps and if it does help please give me 4 thumbs up

Gene

LP ( low pressure) is the same as propane gas. Do you mean natural gas.
So LP to Natural Gas ?

Yes the ignitor stays on even after the burner is lit. The ignitor is wired in series with the oven valve. It sounds like the oven valve isn't opening all the way. A new ignitor should solve this problem. The old igniter builds up resistance and doesn't let the correct voltage through to the oven valve for it to open properly.
Tom

Hello Betsy,

There can be a few causes of this condition.

Foremost, it is good that the igniter is glowing, it shows that there is some life in the oven control.

If you never smell gas, then the gas valve is defective, or is not receiving voltage from the control to turn it on.

If you do smell gas, then the flame sense electrode may be out of position (which should at least momentarily allow burner to light), or the flow of gas is restricted and not enough gas is reaching the burner.

You are probably looking at replacing the oven gas valve. Checking it with a multimeter for 1) operating voltage when it should be on and 2) for coil resistances (both coils should be the same and within specs) when voltage and wires are removed from it.

F8 usually means that you have a fault in the ERC (electronic range control). meaning you have to replace the control.

First try unplugging the range over night and see if this clears the problem. If not you can check the price of a control at a local parts store. They can be fairly pricey so depending on the age of your range - you may want to consider a new range.

ther is a temp sensor that goes from the control valve to the oven,this may be the problem, make sure sensor probe is tight where it screws into the gas valve and other end is not just hanging in the oven, it attaches to the top of oven,if it's where it's supose to be, I'd change that first

hello. Go to your electrical panel and reset the breaker or replace the fuse. Joe

First unplug for a couple of minutes to reset the control. If that doesn't work you need a new control.

Turns out it was the ignitor going bad but not totally gone. We are waiting on a part to come it to replace it. Thanks. By the way, this is a neat service, keep up the good work!

HI ITS a short or defctive oven sensor

sure it will . just clean it up good . mm

The stickiness is from a build-up of grease between the center shaft and the sleeve in which it turns. The non-flammable liquids are nearly all dangerous to expose to open flames so this must be considered.
Methyl ethyl ketone (M.E.K.) is not flammable but it must be gone before firing up any open flame. The stuff has very low viscosity so 'creeps' into tight spaces but it will not be easy to completely clean the shafts because of gravity.
It would be much better if the assembly is removed and MEK is dropped (or sprayed) into the junction of shaft and tubular housing or if practicable, submerge the assembly in it. Some rotation will be needed to work the chemical into the small crack and MEK really is tough on skin, removing every bit of oil from it._
You must use very good ventilation when using MEK as it is not good for the lungs and if the fumes are in sufficient density, it can cause unconsciousness. Use with caution!

Hi, glow plug (element) should glow red, maybe you got faulty thermocouple, located ot bottom of oven burner, unit where gas enter oven burner, they could either be gas pilot or electrical element as metering device, give a little tap, could be stuck, could also be your thermostat, check oven thermostat, many ways to check oven thermostat, give thermocouple a little tap located at beginning of oven burner, if it didn't work, call a mechnic to make futher checks. good luck.

Usually if the symptoms stop with the touchpad disconnected from the clock, that touchpad is often the cause. If the error continues even with the touchpad disconnected, the clock itself is usually at fault and will need to be replaced to correct the problem. On some models it is not possible to disconnect the two in which case the electronic control/clock would have to be replaced regardless.


There is a tool that allows testing of the touchpad (on models where they're separate parts) but is kind of expensive for a homeowner to purchase them self. If you contact a technician so equipped, they should be able to test the touchpad before replacing any parts.

BTW. On most models, the control keypad is only sold along with the whole control pane.

You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.

1. Disconnect power to stove
2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
5. Turn power back on to stove.
6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.

NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part. * We have seen a few of the newer Maytag ranges with a F1 fault code and the problem was the oven temp sensor - check carefully the wires to and from the oven temp sensor!! This has been a new occurrence to us in the last 2-3 years or so

Thanks for using FixYa - a Very Helpful rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

**** ORIFICES EACH INDIVIDUALLY SOME DEBRIS IS OCCLUDING ORIFICES

F8 is a Analog/Digital converter failure.

You cannot "clear" this error.

You will need a new clock assembly (also called an ERC or Control Panel)

CLICK HERE to select the color of your oven and/or oder the part.
2nd 3rd and 4th from the top on the list.



It is part #7 on THIS DIAGRAM


CLICK HERE for an online service that repairs timers for $89

Thanks for using FixYa - please accept this answer to remove it from the work queue.
:D

The orfices at each burner and in the oven need to be replaced

I would look at the transformer and verify that it is jumpered ( hooked up ) for the correct power source.
If there is an option to add a inline fuse to the transformer this will limit the amount of damage to the transformer so you can veirfy the issue.
If you know the current draw on the circuit, you can verify to see if the transformer is sized correctly to supply the power to the unit.

Dont know if this is helpful , hope it is......

local hard ware store should supplie gas stove fittings but make sure main gas supplie is turned off before working on seek an call a pro do not atempt to do it your self unless u have experience.

F1 means, defective touch pad or control.