20 Most Recent Magic Chef 9512 Electric Single Oven - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Check the oven ignitor for voltage.Its most likely the oven ignitor.If you getting 120v at ignitor and its not glowing replace it
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

You could have a weak glo bar, that is common or the main oven gas valve could be bad.You have to trouble shoot and find out which it is.If you happen to have a seperate broiler in that range that has a separate glo bar you can use it in the lower oven to see if it will open the gas valve.Hope this helps.

Have you tried to put in a new light bulb?

Hi,
In most cases these cannot be lit manually.... for your safety!!!

The ignitor needs to pull xxx amps before the gas valve will open. So even if the ignitor seems to be working it may not pull enough current to open the valve.

Any ignitor will slowly deteriorate as it ages... they need to be replaced periodically.

Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

All you need to check for is continuity. If you have it the element is good.

you could have a problem with the clock assy.and there's also a computer board in with the clock assy. or the touch pad.kill the power to the machine,take it apart and unplug the ribbon that's connected to the touch pad.turn the power back on and if the code comes back you need to replace the clock assy.if the code doesn't come back then you have to replace the touch pad.

Just two work there:
1.- Replace the touchpad or the clock (ERC) if the code "F1" is displayed. Disconnect the ribbon connector to the touchpad. If no code is displayed after an hour, replace the touchpad. If the code displays again, replace the clock.
2.- Replace the oven temperature sensor if "F2," "F3" or "F4" is displayed. "F2" indicates the oven temperature is too hot and the oven temperature sensor is suspect. "F3" or "F4" indicates the oven temperature sensor or shorted or open.

Parts replacement coudl look in www.repairclinic.com

Hope helps.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Knob-Dial-or-Button/713547 go to this site,down on the bottom right you can click to enlarge the picture,that knob has been discontinued,you can call my parts guy who's good at getting things that are discontinued,his number is 1-781-438-3800,hesco appliance in stoneham mass. he can ship you a knob if he can get one for you.good luck.

This is usually caused by the main control. The relay for the broiler has likely melted into the on position. Here is a link that should help Replacing oven ERC

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F3 error means open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you want to do it yourself and wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter between 1080-1120ohms....if it reads more then or less then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around between 1080-1120ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

The timer is bad and needs replacement, you can get back to me with its make and model# for any other questions.

Kevin

I recently had the same problem and it turned out to be the igniter. You will need to know your model number. I found mine in the bottom left side of the broiler section.

http://www.partselect.com/Entry.aspx

The bottom of the oven should come out. Then the flame spreader should come off with a couple of screws. The pilot it located in the rear of the over and if the over has a broiler use the same instruction for the top of the oven.

You have to open the oven and take out the door. The door is usually attached to the main unit at one side only. Look at the top and the bottom of that side. You will find hooks for holding spring. Put one side of the spring here. You will find similar hook in the main unit (top and bottom) at the side where the door is attached. You have to put the other side of the spring here. That will fix your problem.

My experience is that there is always at least one (and usually two) Phillips-head screws that secure a glass cover over the light bulb.

Unfortunately, a combination of heat and gunk can make these screws difficult to remove. Get a screwdriver with the proper-sized tip and a LARGE handle that will give you adequate torque, and try removing these screws. If they won't budge, try tapping the handle of the screwdriver LIGHTLY with a hammer... this might knock the gunk loose enough to turn the screws.

If that doesn't work, try using a ratchet with a Phillips-head fitting.

The most important thing is ensuring that your Phillips fits the screw(s). If not, you'll risk damaging the screw head(s) & then you'll have huge problems getting them out.

Once you get the screws out, remove the glass plate (you might need to lever it out with a flathead screwdriver). Clean it well. Unscrew & replace the light bulb. Reverse the steps for re-assembly. If the screws are gunky, or if the heads show any signs of damage, get some replacements at a hardware store (so you don't have trouble a few years from now!).

Beeping from ovens is an indication of function buttons in user. Observe the entire feature function either as cooker still in operationality where beeping is warning as haven been completely secured from functionality. Refer with an expert with condition over impressive.