Top 20 Ryobi Blower Vac 205mph Leaf Blower Or Vacuum Gas Powered Gasoline Zr08510 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hi there, Post a video or pictures. Its mechanical so few things could result in it not working. Is something obstructing it physically from moving within its normal operating range? Did something break or become missing from the unit? and lastly is dirt creating friction lock?good luckoh and ANYTHING that was man made can be fix or rebuilt the question is usually how cost effective is it gonna be.

Try pulling the muffler off there is a small screen clean it and replace or try starting with muffler off had the same thing happen with stihl weedeater

Check this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayF8-eyrmDk

I second the carb. Get a new carb and make sure the fuel is flowing to it

If that's the part number, type it into both Amazon and eBay you should get a couple of vendors that have stock.
Good luck.

question did you switch it on at the ignition switch

I would recommend taking it to your local Ace Hardware where the know how to do most things. You can always look in the Owner's manual that should be available on the Ryobi web site.

Are you sure it is a 4 cycle as I am unable to find any that are. They all appear to be 2 cycle. If it is a 2 cycle, one issue that will cause the problem you describe is if the exhaust is blocked as this will cause fuel to spit out the carb. Have a look at the exhaust and see if you have got a wasp nest or something similar partially blocking it.

Try YouTube

I guess you are doing more than the product was designed for, no point purchasing another or i fear the same will happen, you need to go for a larger capacity machine, possibly mains electric if petrol machines are out of the question.

read the owner's manual. should be there. or contact ryobi online to ask that.

Turn the mixture screw in until the engine just starts to run rough, the back out 1/2 turn

Just got to same point, alas its a complete stripdown and engine is to be taken out. Retaining bolts for the pump are underslung through the engine casing.

Hi there are no adjustment screws it is set up as solid state what happens with these diaphragm carbs is if there is any fuel left in the tool when stored the fuel expands and shrinks in cold weather and stretches the diaphragm making the machine useless if it was the older machine i have a carb kit for it but as your machine is still sort of new there is no carb kit for it here is a link to the carb you need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321780497527

Adjust the air/fuel mixture on the carb.

see if this helps. http://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/8339/original/RY43161_026_Assy_Addendum_trilingual_01..pdf?2017

There has to be two non-return valves in the system; one before the pump and one after. From your description I suspect the valve on the output side of the pump is absent which means operating the pump will not pump oil but will suck and blow air from oil outlet. Similarly the intake valve might be absent which means oil will be drawn from the reservoir and then pushed back, though in practice a little oil would probably emerge from the exit port. The description of valve tends to conjure images of rather more than the steel ball and possibly tiny spring that usually constitutes the valve, components that are easily displaced, lost, forgotten.

Looks l8e it's a bayonet connection. Push the lance end towards the trigger and the make a 1/4 turn counter clockwise.

These are purges not primers, so the pull fuel from the carb and dump it back to the tank, so if the bulb does not fill then there is no fuek supply to it, this maybe because the filter in the tank is blocked, or the fuel hose is trapped or twisted, or the fuel inlet needle in the carb is stuck in the closed position.

Its always difficult to say exactly why a saw will not start, however there are a number of things that need to be correct. Good clean fuel in the tank, replace the fuel. Fuel getting to the carb, fit new fuel filter, check hose for leaks. Fuel getting to the cylinder, check the spark plug is getting wet, if not a carb clean is required. Cylinder in good condition, remove the muffler and check for any scuffing on the piston face. A good spark, rest the plug against the cylinder and crank the engine look for a spark. After all these checks it becomes a bit more difficult, flywheel removal to check the key-way has not sheared knocking the timing out. More not easy to check is air leaks from gaskets or seals, this would need a pressure/vacuum test.