GE Profile Spacemaker XL 1800 36" Microwave Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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If you put in higher wattage bulbs than designed, your bulbs may have caused the control device (relay contacts/triac/diac) to permanently fail thus allowing the circuit to always remain energized.

If it's an LCD or LED display, it' may not be getting an adequate voltage from its driver I. C.. If fluorescent, it could be failing itself, or not be driven properly as well.

Based on other posts on this site,
The going rate for repair of these circuit boards seems to be about $39. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

This could be a diode or a capacitor. It is not expensive to fix if you have the time and patience. If you don't then you should take it into someplace to have it repaired.

After first setting the cook time---then hit the power level button and hit the number 5 (for 50%) and then start. Power level can also be changed while running by hitting power level button and selecting 1 through 10. For example level 3 is 30% for defrosting.

You want to take the microwave off the wall, is that correct. 1st unplug the microwave--plug should be in the cabinet over the microwave. Next--in the same cabinet you should see 2 or 3 phillips head screws with big heads going through the bottom of the cabinet into the microwave top. Have someone hold up on the microwave while you remove the screws. They are about 3 inches long. Once the screws are out, the microwave should tilt forward and downward at the front. The back of the MW sits on 4 tabs on the wall mount plate so to get it off completely you have to lift the back up slightly off the tabs about 1 inch. Feed the power cord down through the cabinet and you are done.

Usually you have to remove the top cover, then the globe can be changed, cover is held in place by screws, make sure power is off as dangerous high power can harm you, best left to a specialist

Check fuse. If bad test the door switches. Replace bad one and then the fuse.

Press and hold the stop button for 5 seconds.

If it was run without the fan a thermal protect device was more than likely taken out. Check for that and replace the fan.

I'm betting your base model number is JVM1860, JVM1861, JVM1870, JVM1871, JVM3660, or JVM3670.That's the automatic louver you're having trouble with. There are micro switches in the louver assembly which tell the controller when the louver is open or closed. If one of those switches or the louver motor fails, the louver will not work correctly.Did your cooktop lights recently fail?Sometimes the surge from them shorting will cause damage to the circuit board, which can be repaired.There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.There is a video here showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

A key question is does the light and turntable inside operate--if they do suspect a bad diode used in many models, a inverter board (power for cooking) and or the major part a Magnetron.Typical diode used in microwaves---it should not read shorted from one end to the other.Typical Magnetron--can look fine and not a real way except by replacing to know if good or bad.The inverter board if there will connect to the above part in some way directly.

The real clue here is strangely enough the table not turning.All units have a switch in the side (usually the right side) of the cabinet--when door is opened it allows the unit to work but will not heat or the table (usually both) will not work.It has to be got at from the inside of the unit--little plastic holder with the switch which looks like a leaf switch.What I have seen several times (including a unit I own) is that from countless opening and closing the door the holder may break or even melt and the contacts on the switch no longer are in position to work when door is open.The purpose of such a switch is simple---it prevents the unit from being used if the door is OPEN.Not a hard or expensive repair

How to close the door that won't close

I haven't heard of such a thing. You must have cooked it until there was no moisture left in the potato. That would also account for the failure of the oven. It would be the same as no load in the oven. A thermal protect part is your current problem.

The front control panel should come off after removing a few screws then look for a large capacitor behind it .DO NOT TOUCH THE TERMINALS! This capacitor is a common cause of the symptoms you describe and costs almost nothing.Changing it may be the fix.

SOUNDS LIKE FLAME SENSOR SWITCH OPENED OR CLOSED AND THE UNIT THINKS IT OVERHEATED AND TURNED THE FAN ON TO COOL IT MUST FIND SHORTED FAN SWITCH

I had this mute problem and found that unpluging it for 1 to 2 min. and the problem cleared.

May be an issue with the magnetron tube.

Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screw(s) you need to remove. Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done. In some cases, you then have to gently rotate the handle to unlock it. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.