20 Most Recent Roper RAX4233PQ Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Try the motor brushes or the drive belt. The lid switch is most likely a seperate fault

two screws hold back control panel on. panel flips up. two clips hold case on. remove clips and lid switch plug and whole outer case will tilt forward off machine base. pump is down in front and can be bought separate.

After the machine fills the next step is to agitate. By agitate I mean the wash portion. The plastic fin in the middle of the tub rotates back and forth. So, after the washer fills, if the machine does not agitate, but stops dead, you have a broken lid switch. When I say stops dead, I mean no noise whatsoever. If the machine makes noise you have other problems.

If the machine fills, agitates, and then stops dead, the problem is still the lid switch. The next step would be describing the noise so I can more accurately give a suggestion. Problems include but are not limited to: broken couplers, malfunctioning water pumps, and/or defective motors or transmissions. These are the vast majority of the problems, and the others need no mention.

With a model number I can give a part number of the lid switch, and or other problematic parts. Also, I can give you an average price of the parts. With this information you could order it yourself and save money :) The model numbers are located under the lid of the washer. Not physically on the lid, but right under it. Get eye level with the top of the washer and you will see it ;)

If you don't hear a click when you close the lid, it could be the lid switch, if you hear humming but not moving, it could be the motor coupler, and if you can turn the drum by hand with lid open, it may be a bad clutch. Those are the top complaints.

do you mean the lid switch is loose? 02 Control and Rear Panel Parts for Roper RAX4232PQ0 if it is broken -- you could bypass it 01 Top and Cabinet Parts for Roper RAX4232PQ0 take out the two screws on the top control panel edged and remove the panel - just tip it back-- see that squiggly metal piece in the edge -- use a flat screw driver and stick the end in the slot of the tip of the brass looking squiggly piece and relieve the tension. The top will now be loose and there is the lid switch

To get to the switch you first have to pull the control cover off. There should be two screws one on each side on the front at the edge. After you remove the cover there will be two gold colored clips that hold the top on stick a screw driver in the hole and pop the latch over until they come out. then the whole front of the machine will be loose. Now lean the front over and look through the lid and you will see two wires going from the lid switch to the main machine, disconnect the wires from the main machine and lift the cover out of the way. you now can get to the switch in the front cover. on this type machine all the lid switch does is keep the machine from spinning with the lid open. if that is the problem you are having then you can bypass the switch with a jumper wire and run it to see if that is the problem. You can if you want hook the two wires to gather and totally by pass the switch and put the machine back together. that will do away with the switches safety feature . I would not do this if you have children that might be using the machine.once you have the switch fixed set the front back on the pins on the base and lean it back over reconnect the wires and the push the clips back in place with a screw driver. hope this helps

I sent you a video.

The lid switch is bad. Here is the part to order.Here is a video to show you how to replace the switch.

Sounds like the drive coupler is failing. Here is a link to the part.Here is a video to show you how to replace the coupler.

It needs a new clutch see http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5132807&diagram_id=28729707#d

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(pre-typed to cover hot and/or cold!)

This is symptomatic of a malfunctioning (not closing completely) water control valve

With power off, if it is hot AND cold fill, turn one or the other off and see which one is causing the problem. Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call ;-0(
If it's cold fill only it's clear which one!!
If is only happens when there is power on it could be the PCB malfunctioning and will require checking by the service call.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello,

If what is happening is you start the cycle and the timer does not advance but if you manually advance it by turning it via the knob and it works fine as far it will agitate and drain/spin.
The problem will be the timer is defective and would need to be replaced.

GENE

Inspect for a broken drive couplerService manualBonus If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I am thinking if all works good except won't spin, it is your lid switch. Under your washer lid you will notice a peg of some sort that when lidnis closed goes into a slot/hole and that triggers the spin cycle. That is in lamens terms know as a safety idiot switch. It is designed so when the washer is spinning at those high speeds,na child or not to smart adult does not open lid and put hand in while spinning. SO, if switch goes out, of course it won't spin. Switch is cheap , under 20 bucks at any appliance parts store, and they even can tell you at store how to putnin yourself by showing on one of there washers on display. Let me know if I nailed it!! Thanks Mike

You'll have to replace the water inlet valve. Hope this helps!