20 Most Recent Roper RAS8244KQ Top Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The problem is your water inlet valve has failed. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will show you how to test it. There is also another video that will show you how to disassemble your washer ( whirlpool style).

Using a flat blade screwdriver pry them off and you will have to tap the new ones on.

It could be a bad lid switch. The machine won't go into high speed if the machine thinks the lid is open.

If the washer does not agitate at all, does not spin, but will still drain, this is a symptom of a broken motor coupling.

The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

This is a very simple repair that doesn't cost much. The repair is actually much easier than you think and requires no special tools. The part number is included in the link I provided. Appliancepartspros.com carries a replacement motor coupling for about $11.

NOTE: A broken motor coupling is usually accompanied by a loud rattling noise. You can hear the motor engaging and running, but there is no tub action.

If you need an illustration, you can refer to the website I mentioned and locate item 13 under the Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump section.

The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the gearcase (transmission). It takes the place of a drive belt and commonly fails on Whirlpool manufactured top loaders due to normal wear and tear. This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. The replacement motor couplings are more resilient and resist breaking better, because the manufacturer added a steel grommet.

If you have any questions about this repair, or if you need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

If the washer does not agitate at all, does not spin, but will still drain, this is a symptom of a broken motor coupling.

The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

This is a very simple repair that doesn't cost much. The repair is actually much easier than you think and requires no special tools. The part number is included in the link I provided. Appliancepartspros.com carries a replacement motor coupling for about $11.

NOTE: A broken motor coupling is usually accompanied by a loud rattling noise. You can hear the motor engaging and running, but there is no tub action.

If you need an illustration, you can refer to the website I mentioned and locate item 13 under the Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump section.
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the gearcase (transmission). It takes the place of a drive belt and commonly fails on Whirlpool manufactured top loaders due to normal wear and tear. This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. The replacement motor couplings are more resilient and resist breaking better, because the manufacturer added a steel grommet.

If you have any questions about this repair, or if you need additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

PS $11 for a do-it-youself repair, with instructions? I think this would definitely be worth your time and effort.

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills, agitates, then stops at the rinse cycle and won't drain, or if the washer does an initial fill, then stops, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The "buzzing" noise you hear is probably the timer motor running.

This is a very simple and inexpensive repair. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

If the model number you have this question listed under is correct, the part number for a replacement switch is 3949247. It can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

If the model number is not correct, and you need assistance with identifying a part number please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid). The average price is $25 to $35. Prices vary between these sites, so shop around for the best deal.

I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Roper washers are manufactured by Whirlpool, so these instructions should apply.

Sounds to me like your WigWag switch is bad. I know name sounds funny, but it is the switch that makes it go back and forth (WigWag) and agitate. It is a small unit with two wires going to it. Usually about in the center if looking from under the machine.

Would say that the cold fill valve is shot

The machine cannot fill with cold water which it uses for setting the temperature on the 60 degree wash.

The cold valve is also used for rinses

Hot water only will give you a wash which is too hot and will cause the colours to run

Can take the pipe off the back of the machine to see if the cold water inlet filter is blocked

Make sure that you turn the fawcet off and also that you have a cloth handy in case there is still some pressure on the hose.

If the filter is blocked take it out and clean it , it just pulls out but be gentle with it it is only plastic.

If the filter is clean you need a new valve

if you have to reset the dial, it would be a worn out contact in the time.
purchase a rebuilt timer and all should be ok
if there is an issue with the clutch you will smell a burning smell as your clutch heats up from slipping.
i dont think it is the clutch, but more likely the timer. and possibly the lid swith

recommend you change the water valve call your model number into www.whirlpoolpartssurplus.com and they can get you very good prices.

the lid switch is defective or the lid or door screws on left & right side are loose tighten and or replace. nbcrca:)

http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level1_6 click the link

Your direct drive coupling on the motor is broken and must be replaced.
This video shows the procedure.

Check the lid switch. If you strip thwe wires and put on a wire nutit will go for ever For a switch call 7048196557

Are you sure its from underneath as a lot of washers seem to be leaking underneath but its actually a blockage in the soap dispenser. Or the water pressure is too high and splashing out of the dispenser in this case make sure the m/c is level front to back.

you have something stuck in the pump

broken lid switch

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

yes this noise is normal.its the dog ears ratcheting in the agitator

turn it on and just makes a hummins noise??? not filling with water??? at very least the machine if powered correcly will fill with water, the humming if happening is hte washer trying to fill check your incoming water supply. try alo changing water temp select from cold/warm/hot.