20 Most Recent Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Either not enough clothes or the lid switch is bad.

this could be a simple fix, where your hoses screw onto the back, ensure that there is a screened washer in place as your cold water is pushing the hot water back through the lines so the hot can't come through with the cold running as well, thats why it will only be hot or cold, scoot down to your white goods center and they will provide you with the correct washer screens for your unit, cost should be no more than about $3 a piece. good luck.

check lid switch.

If you hear the motor running when it is draining then you have a bad timer. If it just drains out and the motor is not running then you have a siphon problem which is caused if the drain hose is too low. Let me know what you find.

Look at this video.

Their is no belt. This washer uses a reversing motor. The motor has a double shaft. One side holds the pump. The other side connects to a drive couping to work the tranny.
The coupling will break because of normal wear,quilts or rugs,low water heavy loads etc. The pump and motor are held by convenient spring clips. The motor has a quick connect so no issue with wiring.To access the innards you have to remove the skin on this beast. Depending on the model you basically swing up the controls. Pop the clips holding the skin on and tip the cabinet forward to remove it. Then you can easily access all the vital parts of the washer. You can even jump out the lid switch and run the washer with the case off(when looking for various leaks). They say a picture tells a thousand words so I have a compilation.
Click HERE

Here is some more fabulous sites you can copy and paste to:
http://repair2000.com/coupling.html
http://appliancejunk.com/motorcoupler.pdf
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.Coming the second aspect if the above gives no result:Perhaps you need new carbons brushes for the motor. It is a fairly straightforward repair. Remove the top cover, screws at rear, and slide top cover off towards the rear. The motor is located at the top right right rear, you will see the drive belt. Slacken the bolt that holds the motor, and push the motor down towards the top of the drum. You will see the 2 brush holders, they will be either black or white, pull the wires off the holder terminals, and depress the plastic lug that holds the brushes in place, slide the brushes out of the motor. The length of the brush should be at least half an inch long or replace. Fit new genuine carbon brushes, and follow instructions on packaging. Push the leads back on to the carbon terminals. tighten up motor, and make sure the belt is reasonably tight. Test on final spin before you refit top cover.(Spares can easily be located on this very site - Fixya)There are very gud videos on YouTube to guide you.If helped pl click so.

try checking the lid switch,if it is broken it will not agitate.if thats good chances are it will be a broken coupling,a round black rubber gadget that fits between the motor and transmission.it has two three legged plastic pcs that fit together and are connected with the round pc of rubber.watch this video:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc

It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.

Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html

Check for tips on the link below to identify parts and removal:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7

it will fill but won,t spin, will throw out water as if it washed, then it take water to rinse but won,t spin ,then will throw out water as if it did , but clothes are soaked

Possible the INPUT FILTER of the COLD water is clogged or the INLET valve is faulty. check the power from the board.

It sounds like you have a motor coupling that is broken. There are videos on YouTube to show you how to repair this. Search for "motor coupling repair on direct drive".

Whirlpool uses a flow meter that detects the flow of water entering the washer. If this flow meter does not detect the correct amount of water entering the washer it will sound the F20 error code. Often this repair can be made with out calling an appliance repairman and without ordering parts. Start by removing the washer fill hoses; both the cold and the hot water hoses. Check for proper water pressure from the house. To do so, turn the water on and put the hose inside the washer or a bucket.

If water pressure is good, check the water valve inlet screens. Most residential washing machines have inlet screens. The screens prevent minerals from clogging the solenoid. With the hoses removed, you can visually inspect the water inlet screens. If the water valve screens are clear the inlet valve with the screens itself will need to be replaced. To replace the water valve, remove the top of the washing machine. Three screws hold the top down. The screws that hold the top down are on the back of the top panel. Once removed the top will slide back and off. Now remove the wire harness that connects to the valve. One screw holds the valve to the washers cabinet. Removing the screw and sliding the valve over will release the valve from the back panel enabling you to complete your repair.

faulty drain pump no drain no spin

It goes into the top of the agitator on that machine. It should look like this.