Top 10 Admiral AW22 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Your problem sounds like a defective water level switch, the rinse switch bypasses this switch therefore your get water whan you go to rinse.
lift the top cover, look at the front of the machine, insert a flat knife approx 4" in at each side of the seam between the front panel an the lid to release the clips, this will allow you to lift the lid, the water pressure switch is at the back (usually round with 3 wires and a small hose to the outer drum low down, ensure the small hose is connected, or with a mais tester check the output (orange/purple wire terminal 2), no mains voltage=no water, the input is grey (terminal 1) from the timer and should be live, the 3rd wire is the output telling the timer "the washer is full" (light blue terminal 3) and will be live when full.

this can often happen on a top loader if the lid switch is not engaging properly.  The drum usually rotates (slowly at first, then much higher speed as the water is expelled) and, as a safety precaution, there is a locking mechanism for the lid. You will get the same result if you leave the lid open... cycle just pauses at the drain/rinse/spin part of the cycle.
Now, to solve the problem...
First we need to confirm the problem ...put the dial in spin cycle and see if you can open the lid, or if it is locked.  If the lid opens ,then you are probably not engaging the switch that enables the washer to lock the lid ( and turn on the pump).
THe switch is activated by a piece of plastic ( often in the form of a loop) attached to the lid which pokes through a slot in the metal top of the washer. a microswitch is located down in the slot. If part or all of the plastic piece is broken, the switch will not be activated.  If found to be broken, these are available at any appliance parats store, cheaply.
Sometimes the switch mechanism shifts down slightly or the internal workings of the switch wear down to where the plastic piece does not push the switch down far enough to activate.  You can test for this -*USING GREAT CARE*  by inserting a plastic stick or other non-conductive (electrical) material (a popsicle stick or plastic drinking straw works fine) that fits in the slot and can be pushed down an inch or so.  The test would be to put the machine in the spin part of the cycle and, with the lid open, insert the stick/straw down into  the  slot (you may hear a click from the  switch). This should turn on the pump if the problem  was that the switch had not been contacted properly by the plastic part on the lid.  Only do this for a moment as it is not safe to run the washer with the lid open (they lock the lid for a reason :).
If this procedure does start the pump, then you have isolated the problem and need to have the plastic part on the lid press down further into the slot to activate the  switch.   For a $50AU washer , i might try to build up  the plastic part with some tape to penetrate into the slot further (dont put on so much that it doesnt fit in the slot or gets in the way of the locking mechanism).
Alternatively you could replace the switch or plastic part, or both (replacing the switch will require taking off the front panel).

do the tests suggested and get back to me.

Gidday!
(from a yank that would like someday to visit coober pedy and ayers rock, along with the other spectacular places and people of Australia... oh, yes, and meet Crocidile Dundee too  :)

y Admiral washing Machine modle # lnc6760b71 will fill with water and agitate. But when it come time for the spin cycle it wont spin. I can hear the motor making noise. and now stop and it does not work, does not smell to burned What should I do??

After spinning it does not release the water

broken or slipping drive belt, ( motor) to spin pulley , losse pulley, defitive drive clutch, spin brake fails to release, or transmission is frozzen

Possibly the lid switch. It won't spin if it doesn't know the lid is closed. Some washers won't agitate with the lid open either, so let it fill until it starts agitating, then lift the lid. If the washer stops you know you've got a good lid switch. If it keeps going you know you need to test the lid switch. Just hearing if it clicks or not is not always a sign it's good. Some Maytag/ Admiral washer lid switches have more than one contact that must close to spin.
It could also be a problem with the timer. Put it in the spin cycle where you know it should be spinning. Make sure the lid is closed. Grab the timer knob and try wiggling the timer shaft up and down and around without turning the knob. If it starts and stops you've got a bad timer. You may still have a bad timer if nothing happens, but you'd have to check it with a meter.

Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary. 
for detailed help with diagrams and step by step instructions click the link http://www.applianceaid.com/washerspinnoise.html

If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up

load lite, and if the problem still is there let run empty a couple of times, if there is still a problem it is off track and a professional needs to go inside of it you can do it yourself but not recommended so call a pro!!!

If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely -if it's frozen or stiff- replace it.

a.- It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
a.1. If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
a.2. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


b.- It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
b.1. The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
b.2 The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
b.3 A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
b.4 The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
b.5 The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
b.6 The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
b.7 The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

c.- It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up

Additional details in Admiral: Washer Use and Care Guide (PDF Format)

Check it and keep us updated.