If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
If you have a problem with your cooker or oven then this diagnostic video will help you find the fault on your beko oven and i hope it helps you. i have put a link also so you can get the parts for your cooker
cooker parts
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these repair guides will also help you find and understand the exact problem with your cooker
How to Repair
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Hello..... have you (a) checked that you have power going to the oven...(b)...With the power to the oven switched off open the terminal block (where the cable from your socket enters the oven) check that all connections are secure....(c) remove the rear panel of the oven and check that the safety stat is ok.......(usually small square white or gray unit wit two wires running to it found on rear of main oven...it is usually fixed to a bracket or directly fixed to the cabinet...test for continuity with a multimeter if open circuit ..that is no meter reading relpace it
sometimes there is a switch that operates when the door is opened or closed causes the fan to stop when the door opens. The switch is normally mounted at a door hinge, or hinge bracket.might have to remove a panal to get to it
Yes this is a frequent problem with thermostats. The thermostat is an electric switch which from overheat and long time use they malfunction and you need to replace it.
1, If your Bellingfan motorin the back of the oven is
going round and the temperature light is on (normally little red light), but
there is no heat then you will probably need a new oven element, these are
generally very easy to fit and readily available from our website these can be
tested with a electric meter.To gain access to theBELLINGelementyou will have to remove the
back plate from inside the oven. Once removed you will see the fan andelement, if you look closely at
theelementyou will probably see a
small hole burnt in it where it has blown. Sometimes however there is no
evidence of a fault but theelementis open circuit ie: broken
inside the element casing, either way it will need replacing. Some elements
will are fixed from inside the oven and some are held in place by nuts from the
rear of the machine.
The noise is probably cominbg from the externally mounted cooling fan. to access it, you will have to remove the side panel and rear cover, and top cover if it is bullt in.
If it is free standing, you should be able to get to it by removing the top cover/hob.
Hope this helps.
