20 Most Recent Nikon N90S 35mm SLR Camera Questions & Answers

Press down and slide one way or the other. It's generally held by two pins that slide into hole slots and lock in place

when you place the film in the camera & close the door does the film advance ?

Top cover needs to be removed to fix it.

try a web search, you'll be surprised what you may find. just enter 'error 7 Nikon N90s'

You may download a copy of the manual from http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_n90s_af/nikon_n90s_af.htm

Try pressing the two button rewind to unjam the camera and then try to take a photo and advance the film. If it still fails, you may have stripped a gear and will need to have the camera professionally repaired. Or, for about $20, you can get a replacement body from eBay and use your current lens.Hope that helps,Bax

Is your battery door closing tightly enough to keep the contacts on the batteries touching the contacts inside the battery door? Make sure you have the batteries inserted correctly, too, matching + with + and - with -.

I believe you mean the focusing screen. While this is an interchangeable part on higher-end Nikon cameras, it's not on the N90s. Your local authorized Nikon repair center may be able to replace it, if they can get a spare.Before repair, bear in mind that the focusing screen will not directly affect any of your pictures. Due to the very nature of a SLR, when you take a picture the mirror flips up next to the focusing screen to let the light from the lens through to the film, bypassing the focusing screen and the rest of the optical viewfinder system. If the scratch isn't very big then while annoying it won't affect camera operation. If the scratch is very large, on the other hand, it may affect the exposure metering and, of course, your viewing.

Have you tried replacing the batteries? It sounds like the batteries may just be too low to wind film, but can function without a load.

I can't remember if the N90S has the vertical grip release or not, but if it does, have you attempted to use it, to see if the camera functions from that release, or on fully manual settings with a cable release? Are there any error messages reading out on the LCD top panel or in the viewfinder? Are you using an attached flash? What settings are you using?

If it's not functioning, on any settings including manual with film loaded, then it's most lilely in need of a visit to a repair shop to figure out where the issue lies.

But, I'd try new batteries first.

FEE error message displayed on SLR camera LCD Description If the cameras LCD screen displays "FEE" in the area where the aperture is normally displayed, please ensure that the lens is attached to the camera correctly. This error message will appear if the lens is not attached correctly to the camera or if you are not using a CPU lens such as the Nikon AF or Nikkor P lenses. Alternatively, if the lens has an aperture ring, it may not be set to f22 (or the highest aperture number on the aperture ring - normally marked in orange). Select the aperture number marked in orange on the lens and lock it using the aperture locking switch to prevent this occurring again.

The FEE error message

Set to F22, or the highest aperture number - normally marked in orange. Note the locking switch.
If the above did not resolve the problem and you still experence the the error display FEE, please contact your local Nikon office. Before doing so please also check the following.

That the EE servo coupling highlighted above on the lenses has not been broken. That the F-min switch highlighted above on the camera body has not been broken. If either of the two items above are broken please contact your local Nikon service center.

Try manually setting ISO to that of film instead of letting camera do it automatically.

It means that your lens is not set to the minimum aperture and your camera is either set to program mode or shutter priority. Also, it can mean that your flash is in an incorrect mode.
For any camera operating mode where the camera controls the aperture automatically, your lens must be set to the minimum aperture setting - which will usually be f/22. This aperture marking will be the one in orange.
IF your lens IS indeed set on f22 and you still see the fEE, then you may have mounted it incorrectly. Remove the lens and try to carefully remount it (with it set at f/22).
Let me know if you need further help or clarification.

The typical battery door for a digital camera is designed to physically block, and therefore lock, the hinge pin and spring assembly between the front and rear case of the camera. However, since the Nikon is slightly different, a service manual may help. Go here to download it, and it will explain how:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/service_manual/datasheets_n_600.html
Good luck, hope this helps, and thanks for using FixYa.

If you are paying more than 50$ for the shutter unit, it probably is not worth the time. I looked at what used N90s bodies sell for on eBay, and most sell for under 100$.

The job of replacing the shutter really only requires 3 tools. A cross point screwdriver, (with a metric tip rather than the US sizes), a pair of tweezers and a soldering iron. An anti-static mat for electronics work is also advisable.

You will be removing all of the covers on the camera, then several interal screws,plates,pressure connectors with some de-soldering on bridge connections to separate the circuitry. Most of the screws are different lengths and sizes, and need to be put back in the proper holes. The circuitry is very delicate and can tear easily with a wrong move.

If this sounds like something you would like to attempt, I can elaborate further. I've replaced a few shutters in the N90s. A few took about an hour, but not always.

just simply follow and adjust the indicators blinking on the view finder lock it on your desired scenario -- normal -- plus - minus --- exposure

The film transport functions on the N90s involve a series of small gears in the bottom of the camera. There may be a damaged gear or possible debris blocking the movement. Replacing any of those components is not really a do it yourself unless you are comfortable working with small screws, about 20 of them. I can guide you further if you are interested

If the switches and contacts are dirty that would do it. If that happens the cost of service may exced the cost of buying a used one.

With that much gone wrong you'd be better to sell it for spares and buy another. A good used and fully functional example of an F90x (=N90s in North America only) typically goes for anywhere from £20 to £80 on ebay and I've had two which only cost me the petrol needed to collect them from FreeCycle/Freegle. Both of the free ones came with a number of lenses and other accessories as well. Note that some examples go for ridiculous money on auction websites, but that only shows that there are still folks with more money than common sense. I would never consider paying above £50 for a perfect example and would only go to higher prices depending upon what else was included.

Your camera will cost far more than £80 to repair and that's without the cost of buying one or more parts donors but you can expect to get between £5 and £30 for it on an auction website, provided it actually attracts bidders. The F90x/N90s was discontinued eight years ago and spares are no longer readily available as it was not a professional grade model. You'll only find most of them as NOS (new, old stock) parts which surface from time to time as repair outlets close or have a clear out of forgotten bits and pieces.

The prices I've quoted are for the UK; in North America you can typically expect to pay around 20% less and in mainland Europe around 15% more.

It's a great camera when it works, but was not built to last and yours appears to have reached the end of it's service life.

Sorry this is probably not what you hoped to hear, but I hope that my posting has been of some use to you. Please return the favour by rating my answer.