20 Most Recent Shuttle MK40VN Motherboard Questions & Answers

go to the web site of shuttle download support then download drivers then ok.

Hi Angie8,
Click on the link to download you're manual for Shuttle MK10VN.
English Manual MK35N (PDF, 7 MB)

Click on the next link to load all drivers & downloads for you're Shuttle motherboard.
http://eu.shuttle.com/archive/en/mk40vn_faq.htm#download

Enjoy!

Mike

1) Do the voltage values stay the same right before the shutdown, or do they drop?

2) Plus, Voltage values; Are you getting a full 3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts?

3) Check the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard for visual signs of failure.

A) Electrolytic Capacitors are used on the motherboard as Filters, or Voltage Regulators, (Motherboard voltage regulator circuit)

B) Computer designers know that Electrolytic Capacitors break down over time. This is why they use capacitors that are rated at 50 percent more than is needed. When the capacitor (Electrolytic) breaks down to the 50 percent level, it is still good enough.

C) The Electrolytic Capacitors used on the motherboard are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Basic construction of a R.A.E.C. is;
1) A cylindrical aluminum case shaped like a Coca-Cola can, but with no top, or bottom

2) Top seal is a Vent Cover. A flat round thin disk composed of Aluminum, that has a shape etched partway into it, in the middle. Usually a K or X.

3) Bottom seal is a Bung. A flat round thin disk composed of synthetic rubber.

4) Three strips.
A) One strip is metal tinfoil composed of Aluminum.
B) One strip is also aluminum tinfoil, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
C) One strip is a paper-like strip that is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

Strip A is the Conducting strip. It has the Positive lead, (Think wire) attached to it.
Strip B is the Non-Conducting strip. It has the Negative lead attached to it.

Strip C is placed in-between Strip A and B, and all three are rolled up tightly.
The Positive lead, and Negative lead, poke down through the Bung at the bottom of the capacitor.

When the capacitor starts to fail a gas is developed inside. (Hydrogen Gas) The paste breaks down, and makes the gas.

The gas expands, and breaks the top Vent Cover open at the K or X, AND/OR, pushes one side edge of the Bung out.

The gas then slowly pushes the Electrolytic Paste out. (It oozes out)

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state.
Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

The paste can also dry up inside, and show no visual outward signs of failure.

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

Power unplugged to computer, Anti-Static Precautions observed, the motherboard should be removed for visual inspection of the capacitors.
It may require using a magnifying glass, and a good light.

Post back in a Comment as to your findings.

Regards,
joecoolvette

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

in some motherboard when you change the c mos jumper the motherboard doesn't switch on change the pin to 1 and 2 normally which is c mos normal and 2 and 3 is to clear c mos you will see marking of all the jumpers in the motherboard set the pin correct to normal and also remove the power connector from the motherboard and short the green and the black wire and see whether the smps works if not working change them

Hola, aqu? se puede encontrar informaci?n sobre su placa base.
Aqu? usted puede encontrar los controladores.

http://www.shuttle.eu/_archive/older/en/mk40vn.htm#specificatio

Prophitinc, I'll try to help. First off a real basic question, the specs I have say this board has a built in video adaptor. Did you make sure that the BIOS was configured use the plug in card? Some BIOS's can do this on their own but I would check anyway. -The first thing I would do is to check each screw, card, connector and component you installed to make sure nothings being shorted out or is improperly connected. Common occurrences are screws touching capacitor or other component leads. -Check the power connectors to make sure everything is connected correctly and that all the contacts are still mounted in the plastic connector correctly. -Check the output on your power supply and verify it?s rated for your motherboard. -Make sure the motherboard is correctly grounded to the chassis per your instructions. Typically the mounting screws touch a grounding plane on the motherboard and in turn ground that to the chassis. If your using plastic mounting studs that might be a problem. Make this as basic a machine as possible: remove any add in cards, use the built-in video (make sure you enable it via the BIOS), unplug mice, remove all USB components, reduce the size of your memory (RAM) and if you have multiple hard drives remove all except your boot drive. If you have on try a basic PS2 style keyboard you know works. Restart, does anything change? If this doesn't result in some changes then some more information is necessary. In light of your situation I?ll be checking back for another couple of hours: -Are all of these parts from the old machine, IE do we know they all work? -Any beeping or noise coming from the machine during booting except fans? -You say it behaves as if it were booting; what about hard drive activity? How long is it running? -What exactly were the conditions in which the last board was damaged? Was it plugged in and powered up?

I did go to Shuttle to look for a bios upgrade & Shuttle does not list any bios files. I found one bios file at Softpedia & downloaded it to see the date. The .rom file is dated 11/28/2003. I gather your 2003 is close.
http://drivers.softpedia.com/progDownload/Shuttle-MK40VN-Bios-103-Download-6730.html
The current bios does not allow you to clock the CPU to its correct frequency.
AMD XP 2400+ frequency
Bus speed (MHz) = 266
Clock multiplier = 15
You can try turning on the over clocking, see the manual page 57. These setting would be normal for the AMD XP 2400+ CPU.
I'm looking at the max frequency for the Shuttle is topped out at
198MHz. As far as the IDE hard drive I'd like you to download the manufactures bootable floppy software & check the drive with this floppy disk. (Works in a dos like mode). No windows involved. The Mfg's software will test & repair the drive if needed & will also set the drive up, set cluster size, choose NTFS FAT or any other FAT you wish for windows XP. It's better than windows format. You'll fine there are other options you can turn on & off if you wish. (If you run the Mfg's software, disconnect any other hard disk drive by removing the data cable).
On a personal note, I always use the Mfg's bootable software to set up any drive be it IDE or SATA I, SATA II.
Shuttle site's.
http://global.shuttle.com/download03.jsp?PI=516&PL=2

Live chat:
http://us.shuttle.com/Scgsupport/Support2.htm

Good luck cfuller77!
If you find you need more help, just ask...

Mike

you need to enter the BIOS usually del key or f2 will come up lower right corner boot screen when in BIOS set for default close and save reboot see if this helps

If this was damaged 'In Transit' contact the company you bought it from and they may be able to supply you with a replacement. The damage was possibly due to bad packaging at their end or damage while the delivery company had it.

Optical drive is defective and in need of replacement.