20 Most Recent Baumatic BWE41BL Wine Cooler Questions & Answers

It sounds like a possible shorted alternator, or a bad ballast resistor at the power terminal on the solenoid which should be mounted on the fenderwall. To test if your ballast resistor is bad you will need a test light. Hook the test lught to the ground terminal of the battery and test for power by stabbing it into the wire in front of the bulge in the wire. The bulge is the ballast resistor, so you want to test for power at the terminal on the solenoid as well and if yu get no power after the bulge the ballast resister is bad.The run wire should be located at the battery side if the solenoid. The start terminal is the small clip on wire. You should test the batt voltage before testing these wires. If the batt. voltage is extremely low, or completely dead this is a good indication of a shorted alternator. So make sure and charge the batt. at 2 amps for 12 to 24 hrs if it is dead. They will fall flat if charged at a high rate. You have to ease the voltage back up slowly. Please let me know how you make out and post on fixya if this solves your problem. Good luck hope this fixes your problem, if not let me know and we can take it from there.

Gas

Check the drain is clear by blowing through. Some frosting is normal anyway.

Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required