Top 20 Samsung RS265TDRS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

could very well be a bad temp sensor. ck here.. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/parts-for-samsung-rs265tdrs-xaa.html you can chat with a tech too. hope this helps.

Get a high power wet/dry shop vacuum cleaner and use the blower side to blow through the vents from freezer to refrigerator. The frost on the "evaporator" acts as an insulator, no matter how slight. You need to do a process of elimination of individual components in the defrost circuit and test for conditions, which I call the three "C's": Circuit Condition, or Component. This tactic can be applied in any electromechanical device. With the Wet/Dry high power vacuum cleaner blower end, use it to defrost the evaporator completely, if you can have someone put a hair dryer or heat gun on the suction side of the wet/dry, it will speed up the process. Afterwards, check that the freezer evaporator fan is running and that all cowlings are installed and clear. Close the freezer and put your hand on the top part of the refrigerator and feel for cool air from the vent. Then open the freezer door and the draft should increase quite a bit, if not, you have a clogged ventilation. Check to see that your defrost kicks in for no less than 10 minutes in a 10 hour window. Usually the defrost timer runs for 6 to 10 hours and a defrost cycle runs for 10 to 30 minutes. Be careful and don't burn yourself because the defrost heater has around 40 ohms of resistance, which equates to around 360 Watts of heat. If a 100 Watt light bulb can burn you, imagine 3.6 times that amount. The defrost timer operates the defrost heater, or the compressor motor and fans, but not both. So, if the fans are not running, the defrost heater should be energized, if the defrost bi-metal thermostat switch is working properly. Said switch should be changed in no more than a 10 year run because they are rated to run 10,000 times, which equates to 9 years 1-1/2 months. It's similar to a vehicles thermostat, if you change the water pump, you need to change the thermostat too because it is a mechanical device working under the laws of thermodynamics, and the laws of physics are not just really good ideas. So, to start off the bat, if you are going to begin to troubleshoot and do your own repairs, start by buying said switch. It costs from around $4 to $75 depending on your manufacturer. Get a similar switch and piggyback it over your existing switch as a trouble shooting tool, over 75% of the chances its that, but always confirm your diagnosis then confirm the bad part with proper tests. After the repair, confirm the repair, never try to second guess yourself because it will bite you. Be aware of the high voltages present, and the sharp fins of the evaporator. If the switch, and/or the heater are good then it mght be your defrost timer. Disconnect the timer and jumper between #4 and #1, that will run the defrost heater if the switch is good. Jumper #4 and #2 will run the compressor motor and fans. Never, ever jumper #4 and #3 because you will experience something very bad, like a loud bright spark arc as it melts your jumper and hopefully trips your house circuit breaker and not electrocute you. Watch several Youtube videos and read blogs on fixing your refrigerator defrost problem and enjoy the experience as it will save you a lot of money from a professional guessing, replacing, hoping and praying that he fixed it, with your nickle.

try going to a samsung service agent and getting the parts most will give advice on how to do the repairs if you want or will make an appointment to come do the fix

Water control valve is defective=> DA97-07827B Water Inlet Valve are you posting the correct model number? RS265TDRS I'm here should you have question, Thanks, Sea Breeze

If the fridge is cool, the defrost timer has failed. If the fridge is warm, the thermostat is usually the culprit.

The crusher is at fault, it needs to be tested.

Your refrigerator is in demo mode. For a detailed description of how to get refrigerator out of demo mode, press the two button on the upper left side of display for 3 to 5 seconds or until the OF dissapears. If your refrigerator does not have a display on the front side, do a search for "how to take samsung refrigerator out of cooling mode/ demo mode" and it should give you several options available for your model of refrigerator. Hope this helps

I did a GOOGLE search using your reforge model number. I came up with several sites that have all of the info you need. The best was RC Repair parts. Here you will find all of the repair parts you need with pictures of same. Look it over I used this service for my Refrige a few years back and it was GREAT! also did a repair on my washing machine again a big help and all the parts were listed and available.

The normal setting for freezer and fresh food side is 5. A very common cause of loss of cooling in the fresh food side is the vent are blocked for cool air exchange from the freezer. Find the two vents to and from the freezer to fresh food side and make sure they are not blocked. Most problems can be solved by decluttering freezer and fresh food side. Next check to see if the evaporator fan is running. This fan provides the push for air circulation through the vent dampers in this type of refrigerator. If this does not fix the problem and is still under warranty, call the 800 number and pay the small service fee and get a professional to analyze and determine which part is not working. Hope this helps.

Hold the top two buttons down at the same time. That will reset it

Ours just started this today too, have you found an answer anywhere else yet? It's not listed in the known error codes.

5E Means Fridge Defrost Sensor Error. You will probably have to call an Engineer because this does not necessarily mean the defrost sensor is faulty and you would need to check that the evaporator and drain heaters are working, the thermal fuse for the heaters is ok and if they are fine, the sensor resistance should be checked.

Press energy saver button 1 time

Follow through on this for specific cause(s): http://blog.partsdr.com/samsung-blinking-dashline-error-code-list/

You have probably dumped the unit now but here are the most likely faults: 1. Defrost Heater (there are probably two in series, one on evaporator and one in drain hole so if one fails, neither work). You remove power, use an Ohmmeter and measure the resistance of the heaters which should be really low <20 ohms. 2. Thermal fuse (if this blows, it must be replaced properly and insulated from the heater). Again, a low Ohm reading would be required. 3. Ice blockage in drain hole (pour a small amount of warm water and ensure it goes down into the tray below compressor where it evaporates away). 4. An error is detected due to a faulty sensor or fan (if it has a display, it may have a diagnostic mode and instructions on back of unit). There could be two sensors and they are usually the same type. One would be for fridge temperature and one for the defrost temperature. You can again use an ohmmeter and check that you are getting similar readings from each (they will be a little different due to being different temperatures and you can warm them with your hands and see the resistance alter a bit). Lastly the main board which are generally pretty robust and you have already changed.

Behind the gasket, peel the gasket up and you will see screws remove and reattach the water line...

press and hold for 5 second the two buttons: lighting and freezer to the left o follow this:http://support-us.samsung.com/cyber/popup/iframe/pop_troubleshooting_fr.jsp?idx=388181&modelname=RS265TDRS&modelcode=RS265TDRS%2FXAA&session_id=&from_osc=

If you get the message OF on your Samsung refrigerator here is how to correct it. What OF means is your freezer and refrigerator has or is going to stop and warm up. To correct it push the Light+Freezer buttons for 3 seconds. It will reset to the last temp settings and everything should go back to normal.

8E = OVER CURRENT ERRORIPM fault signal (this is caused by the overload of the MICOM INTO during motor action). IPM: Integrated power module. The IPM controls the motor. If the fault (low signal) happens to be sensed even once during the washing/rinsing stage, the motor stops immediately. However, during the dehydrating stage the signal is to be sensed, when the number of signals reads more than 6 per 500ms during the Washing or Rinsing cycle action. If the motor stops working, in one direction ten times, "8E" Error is displayed. During dehydrating, when the overload is sensed, the motor stops working at once and then feeds back to the initial stage of the dehydration unbalance sensing. When the feed back has occcurred twice, Error "8E" is displayed during the dehydrating unbalance sensing, No error happens by overload sensing. When it happens at more than 800rpm, the process is stopped compulsorily. Power Switch OFF can clear the overload error.

If you had ice on the coils you will need to replace the defrost thermostat. Here is the part to order.