20 Most Recent Allen & Heath Mix Wizard Wz3 16:2 Rackmount Mixer A&h Questions & Answers

1st....the output section, "M" stands for mono. The A&E does not have "monitor" sends per say but instead calls them "Aux's." Adjust the proper Aux for the input channel 1-16 and use the Aux output section (row of knobs above output sliders) as the master volume. By using Aux 1-4 (and with more amps) you could send 4 discrete monitor mixes to four different band members. Bass likes his monitor strong but doesn't want to hear other members while guitarists want to hear only himself and the singing drummer...etc.

It appears that AUX6 is default factory strapped as POST FADER. If you want to change that you will have to disconnect jumper L to A for all channels you want the AUX to be pre-fader and instead connect K to S for the option jumpers. I don't know if this requires soldering or whether they are push on jumpers. These should be available in the back cover. In ADDITION you will have to run the switched pre/post fader switch in the PRE position which will make ALL AUX's that are strapped this way PRE FADER.

NEVER, NEVER put contact cleaner into the faders!!! It removes the lube and the faders will be damaged in short order. Try using CRC226 available at Home Depot in the electrical dept. Use ONLY the CRC226 as there are other CRC products that are not applicable. Squirt some in the center of the slots... not too much and work the sliders... if they improve try a little more... If they are still bad, replace the sliders... it is a MISERABLE job involing removing mass number of knobs, screws, etc... and then getting/finding the replacement fader control. Usually I get them from Digikey.com or Mouser.com and sometimes the actuator tab has to be trimmed to length with tin snips so knob will be at right height. The fader must have the same resistance and TAPER as the original as well as mounting tabs.

Check the insert sockets.

cachepe.samedaymusic.com/.../gl2400ug_ap5597_2-42fad5e2de1bc79db38576be174464d4.pdf - United States
Above is your user manual below is a service and repair manual.
http://www.performanceaudio.com/cgi/product_view.cgi?products_id=16696

Indeed i would suspect something around your Final Output semiconductors, and any associated resistors?
You really must obtain a service manual, here there are the troubleshooting steps required to isolate and hopefully allow repair of your unit.
Look for any discolored components etc, check if any are overly hot... use a temperature probe on suspected components. Freeze spray may also be useful in diagnosis.
Use your eyes & nose to isolate the bad burnt overheated components, I sometimes use a straw up a nostril and selectively go over suspect parts, and "Sniff" to try and detect the overheated smell... it works.
http://www.allen-heath.co.uk/uk/TechnicalSupport.asp
Above is your tech support link, contact them for any info you require.

The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.

'pianoforte'

BREV. N. 838420

See page 22 troubleshooting of this manual. It may help you. dd501 (yamaha.com)

Depending on the model, there are four around that date, it could be the insert jacks are tarnished reducing the signal flow between the pre amp stage and digital power amplifier. It could be the power amplifier has failed. It could even be customer error in wiring. This assumes there is the correct level of signal entering the input sockets of course.

Are you sure you are quoting accurately? Could it be one of these instead? http://www.lyrics.cat/lyrics+lead+a+horse+to+water

It's a Line 6 and probably requires a software update from Line 6.

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The Roland RD-600 is a digital piano, and its hammer action mechanism is designed to simulate the feel of an acoustic piano. The hammers in digital pianos like the RD-600 are typically made of materials like plastic or a combination of materials to replicate the weighted feel of acoustic piano keys. The breaking of hammers in a digital piano is not a common issue, and it's not typically related to the age of the instrument alone. Several factors could contribute to the breakage of hammers, and it's essential to consider the following possibilities:

1. Excessive Force: If the keys are played with excessive force or if there's any physical damage to the instrument, it could lead to the breakage of hammers.
2. Material Quality: The quality of materials used in the construction of the hammers can impact their durability. If the hammers are made from subpar materials, they may be more prone to breaking.
3. Manufacturing Defects: In some cases, there could be manufacturing defects that make the hammers more susceptible to breakage.
4. Maintenance: Lack of proper maintenance, such as cleaning and regular inspection, may contribute to the wear and tear of components, including hammers.

If you've observed a pattern of hammers breaking with regularity, it might be worth investigating the specific cause. If it's due to excessive force or physical damage, adjusting playing habits and taking care during transport can help mitigate the issue. As for whether it's worth purchasing new hammers from Roland, it depends on the extent of the damage and the overall condition of the instrument. If the RD-600 is in good condition otherwise and you enjoy playing it, replacing the hammers could be a reasonable option. However, you may want to assess the cost of replacement hammers compared to the overall value of the instrument, factoring in the cost of a used RD-600 and any potential future maintenance needs.