20 Most Recent True 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial Freezer T-49F-RC Questions & Answers

You have non-condensables in the system.

1.Recover Refrigerant

2.Change Drier

3. Evacuate to 500 Microns

4. Weigh in charge

Probably the compressor has shorted. 99.999% of the time this is the main culprit. Otherwise wiring short.

Most all commercial freezers like yours have, what is called, a fan delay. It is located in the evaporator case and is usually attached on or very close to the actual cooling coil. It may also be a combination switch known as a defrost terminator/ fan delay. It's purpose is to keep from circulating warm air. If the cooling coil does not reach a preset temp, the fans do not come one. Another thing is that the fan motor may just be bad. If you have more than one fan, then chances are that it's going to be the fan delay. I would start there to see that either the fan delay switch is bad or there is a reason that the coil is not getting cold enough to activate the switch.

TRY TO ACID WASH CONDENSER. AND CHECK IF YOUR YOUR EVAPORATOR MOTORS ARE RUNNING.

4 times in 24 hours for 40-45 minutes works fine.

Opinions differ but based on my experience I would say yes. First the unit is starting under a heavy load every time you restart it. Second you will notice that rust will build up much quicker than normal because the unit will condensate a lot as it warms up and even the aluminum parts will get electrolysis and get a white powdery film and start to break down faster. Not to mention that bugs will gravitate to the unit for moisture and a place to hide when it's warm and wind up inside the walls going dormant when it's freezing.

Does it? Or is it just the display that reads 50? Don't forget the evaporator has to get to 50f to get rid of the ice forming on it. It will do this 3 or 4 times a day, but the product temperature should not creep much above setpoint. Check the food temperature with a digital probe when defrost occurs to see if it is only the display module ( which may have it's sensing phial too close to the evaporator or have lost it's insulation jacket)Also check the grill in the base (condenser) is clear and clean so it recovers from defrost as it should..

Many times a refrigerator's defrost timer will go out keeping the compressor from running

I would check your defrost timer to see if it is rotating. It may be stuck in defrost mode. you can check this by manually rotating the timer dial CCW yourself. This will be located in the front bottom left had corner behind the vent panel.

The defrost termination/ fan delay control is a temperature-activated, single pole-double throw switch. ).
The control is wired into the refrigeration circuit. The control is located high on the evaporator where the frost is likely to clear last. The function of this temperature-activated switch is to terminate defrost when the evaporator coil has been defrosted, and to delay the evaporator fans from coming on immediately after defrost.
The coil must reach a temperature of 25* F. for the fan delay to close allowing the fans to operate.

do you have just fan delay or fan delay / defrost temination?

Okay first True uses capillary tube not an expansion valve.
You say the compressor vibrates not cooling ?
If the valves of the compressor are bad, he may mean
internal valves but usually pressures would not be good.
Give a little more detail please.

so the freezer has no cold air at all correct then this would be a compressor or board problem with the machine and it is best to call a technician asap if you have no cold at all most of the time it would be the compressor but i also believe that model has a board controling the compressor so call the technician asap If you have any further questions please message me back Thanks again
Rick
sorry when it comes to compressor problems i only suggest trained individuals work on them causes alot less chance for mishap if it was a defrost problem where your freezer was cold but the frig was warm i could talk you through whats wrong and give you step by step instructions