20 Most Recent True 72 cu. ft. / 2039 liter Commercial Freezer GDM-72F Questions & Answers

Clixon is an overload device designed to shut off current when too much juice is flowing within circuit. When it cools it resets itself but if condition is still present it will go out again.

depends if it is only a two wire hard start.. then wire it parelel with the run capacitor . place line to line and load to load . load goes to compressor and line to power which is usualy realy the neutral for a 120v compressor since the hot runs to a overload and straight to the compressor

SEALED SYSTEM REPLACING COMPRESSOR ON COMMERCIAL FREEZER

MIGHT BE BAD TERMINATION SWITCH.

That freezer is meant to have a stable load an example is storage. A supermarket application would require a tx valve.

Actually Klixon - that's a name brand but it's used as a generic term for a disc shaped temperature sensor that mounts to the copper line on the inside coil. There are sometimes 2 of them on a freezer. One will be used to end defrost and delay the indoor fans when it goes back into freeze so that they don't blow warm air into the box. The other will just be inline with the defrost heater to kill power to the heater as a failsafe.

could be a dirty condenser coil check it and clean it. make sure the condenser fan is working too. located on the bottom.

because cooling cycle and compressor is not same thing ,cooling cycle fixed beside the compresor you can see that.

It is an overload protection device that cuts the power to the compressor if it draws too much current or overheats. Usually fitted close to the compressor body in a black box with the relay. Test by making sure you have continuity between the pins

Usually a blocked condenser fooling the thermostat into running overtime. Possibly thermostat fault but less likely

Marc is correct, you should check to see if you have a blocked filter (this should always be changed when a system is vacuumed and refilled) or you may have oil in the line(s) causing the blockage. But you should know that there is a blockage because your low side pressure will be lower than it should be or in a vacuum and your high side pressure will be much higher than it should be. The blockage could be oil, or a plugged filter or even moisture in the system which will freeze at the end of the capilliary tube in the evaporator which blocks the flow of the refrigerant. But if this was the case the freezer would start to cool down but only for a short time from first start-up then warm up as the capilliary tube plugs up with the frozen moisture. I would suggest that you remove the refrigerant, purge the system to be sure there's no oil etc int he lines, remove the old filter and install a new one, put the system into a deep vacuum for several hours, refill the sytem with the correct amount of refrigerant and monitor it to see if there's a change. Good luck

They have a support line here:
http://www.truemfg.com/24HourTech_en.aspx?language_id=1&event_id=401&from=food

Our Technical Service department is available via Internet or phone
Monday - Friday 7:30 AM - 5:30 PM CST and on Saturday 8:00 AM - 12:00 PM CST.

Via phone please call 1-800-325-6152 and ask for the Service Department

You can also use the page to ask any questions. I suspect you have a fan relay that has failed as the fans should be running anytime the compressor is running. Since all of the fans are not running that leads me to think it is a relay problem.

One thing to need to make sure is to verify that all fans.. condenser (bottom of the unit) and evaporator (inside the unit) fans are not running. If the condenser fan bottom of the unit is running and the evaportar fans are not running it could be something as simple as a door switch that has failed. Call them during business hours and I am sure they will tell you what the remedy is.... and of course.. do their very best to ensure they get to send a repair tech your way.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Thermo fuse has failed on the core plate, tells the freezer its cold enough to start blowing air, you can bypass it but not recommended. hope that helps, Russ

Try any good electrical supply for them.

first place to look is in the evap where the defrost/ fan delay is located. It is usually attached to the "U" tube on the evap and senses the temp. It prevents circulating warm are after a defrost. It could be bad and keeping the fans from running. Start there and let me know if I can be of further help

Special tool required to tighten.