Sony STR-DE597 Receiver - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I've had a Sony STR-DE725 for years, and it's always worked fine, until recently. When I turn it on, instantly, or within 1 minute - it will "click" and then display "PROTECTION". Like any good DIY'er, I googled everything - so I looked for any loose speaker wires, and finding none - decided to open it up. I pulled it out on my workbench, opened up the case, and blew out about an inch of dust from everywhere with an air compressor. Next I disconnected and reconnected every connection that I could easily reach. Finally, I unscrewed (about 1/4 turn) and re-tightened every single screw that I could reach in the guts of the receiver. It works fine now! Go figure... probably the dust, or a loose connection somewhere. Definitely try this first, as you have nothing to lose but 30 minutes of your time on a weekend!

There's nothing more you can do. It is likely a shorted output transistor that became damaged when either playing too loud for too long, connected to shorten speaker wires, etc. A repair shop or replacement will be you best options.

The Jensen JS650 does not accept line level input so you need to use the Front B speaker output from your Sony receiver and not the RCA subwoofer output. Even though your subwoofer is active, it does not support line level (RCA) signals. Just connect the subwoofer as you would a pair of speakers. Once connected, you make sure the front panel speaker switch on the Sony is set to A+B so you get sound from your existing speakers (A) and subwoofer (B). I hope that works for you.

The reason you may find it difficult to connect the Sony Receiver to the Jensen JS650 is that the JS650 does not have a line level input (RCA) to match the RCA subwoofer output of the STR-DE597 receiver. In this case, all you need to do is connect an extra set of speaker wires from the "Speaker B" Left and Right speaker connections on the back of the Sony to the speaker input connectors on the Jensen. On the front panel of the Sony, select speakers A+B settings so that the subwoofer is on in parallel with the front speakers. I hope this answer is helpful to your home system set up.

The wires to the speakers may be in the wrong positions check and make sure...

More than one.

You have a damaged amp. Need to get repaired.

RF or stray electric fed back to the unit via power cord or cables is most likely-----consider a technician looking at it as the audio output circuit etc may have been damaged---surge protection will not usually protect against this kind of problem.

Here is a guide for you:Protect or Protector message is flashingIf you have already check on these and needs to DIY let us know.

I am highly skeptical that the CPU is the problem; protection mode is designed for protection of the amplifiers.Use an artists brush to remove any dust and grime off the voltage rails and heat sinks. Reinstall the CPU and the chassis cover. Turn your attention to the rear connector panel; check for any broken or loose speaker terminals. If your speaker wires are still connected look for any stray wire strands and pull them off or bend them away from the connector panel. Check the connection for tightness, or simply disconnect any corroded wiring that you may not be using a banana or spade connector with and clip and redress it. Perform the same inspecting and maintaining procedures on all of your speaker channels.When placing the receiver it must also have adequate air flow around it. Anything you can imagine that would allow the unit to retain heat increases the chance of it getting it into protect mode for thermal protection. Out in open air is best.When the receiver is properly positioned and all connections are secure, power it up; it will likely still be in protect mode. If so, press and hold the power button down until the unit "clicks" inside the chassis; this takes approximately 15 seconds. Protection circuit is reset and you can now operate the receiver.

have u checked the COMPATIBILITY of the IPOD with your system(receiver/amplifier). the software of some models is not compatible withyour respective receivers.
Go to their sites for software upgrades.bye.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on; or it may turn on but produce no audio to the speakers.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'nekkid'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as another possible root cause for intermittent shutdown.

protect mode means there is a shorted components inside your reciever it's probably the out put transistors take out the transistors and test it with a multimeter.

So what did the tech do, just throw up his hands in failure? Of course if he tested it outside the environment at your home it's likely he can't reproduce the problem. I'd be surprised if he didn't offer something along these lines...

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

You don't say under what conditions it does that so...

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Hi, It may not be a wiring problem, or a heat issue, but it should be related to what is at the other ends of the speaker wire. I, of course, don't really know what is happening with your receivers. I guessing.
My only rational guess besides the receivers having been defective is this.

So here the theory part:
An amplifier is designed to operate with a certain amount of 'LOAD" on it's speaker outputs.
It will say something, in the manual and perhaps on the back of the unit itself at the speaker terminals
"4-8 Ohms (a measure of resistance, the load itself) 4-16 Ohms, etc.
So what happens when you wire in parallel Two 8 ohm speaker systems together. You get 4 ohms.
Not a problem.
What happens if you wire four 8 ohm speakers together, you get a load of 2 Ohms. This level of resistance if very low for a receiver and it will go into a protection mode. If you were able to run it without protection, the output transistors would cook internally. The Receiver itself wouldn't necessarily get hot. But that would happen.
If you put four 4 ohm speakers together. The amplifier would see 1 ohm resistance. That is almost a short circuit.
So if you happen to be running multiple speakers together. Check this point out.
Hope this helps,
Best,
Mark

The most common problem found on FixYa for Audio Video Receiver's is:

My receiver say's "Protect" or turns on then off. What's wrong? Seven times out of ten it is a shorted speaker or speaker wire. To determine your exact problem, the first step is to disconnect all speaker wires "at your receiver" Next: Turn the receiver back on. If your receiver still says "protect" or turns off, it needs to be serviced. If your receiver stays on; reconnect your speakers one at a time and power back up after each speaker. You may find that after reconnecting all speaker wires it works! Most commonly the small braids of wire from the + to the - have touched and have caused the problem. In some instances, you noticed the problem only when turning the volume up. either way, make sure the exposed wires to your receiver are no longer than 1/2" long and are completely under the screw down terminal or slide in. When you've found the wire or speaker with the problem, your receiver will go back into "protect" At this point, disconnect the wire from the speaker at the speaker that may be causing the problem then test again.* Note* Make sure speaker wires do Not touch each other as this Will cause a short! If you turn the receiver back on and it stays on, you now know the problem is in your speaker itself. To test your speaker, you will need a multimeter. Set it to ohms resistance and touch the speaker terminals, if there is a short internally the meter will read "1......" If it's an analog meter, it will peg to the right. There's your problem. Now, within any speaker there are quite a few possibilities as to what could be causing the problem. Most common is a blown coil and the speaker needs to be replaced. Some speakers have internal crossovers (usually floor standing speakers) and may have a shorted or burnt board (usually very visible brown burn marks on the board) and can possibly be repaired if your handy with a soldering iron. Now, if you disconnect the speaker wire at the speaker and it still says "protect" Check your wire for the obvious cut or nail thru the wire if possible. If your system has wiring that runs behind walls, you may need to use your meter again. Disconnect the wire at both ends, keep the ends separated, put your meter on ohms resistance and touch probes to the + and - wires at one side. If the meter pegs to the right or reads "1...." the wire is shorted and needs to be replaced or repaired at the short. Hope this helps.

Any audio device with a headphone jack can be adapted to connect to any standard audio component that supports Line Level analog stereo input. Just don't use any input specifically labeled as PHONO.

A Place like Radio Shack would have the inexpensive adapter you need.

There's a Speakers OFF/A/B/A+B button on the upper left front panel. Press it a few times and watch the display.