20 Most Recent Transmission & Drivetrain for Ford Transit Connect Questions & Answers

Newer transmissions do not use an external transmission modulator so the do not need vacuum lines.

The transmission will not fit. The automatic transmission (a4ld) came out in the 2.3L and the 4.0L. The bolt patterns are not the same for the 3.0L.

Yes many of them will fit. However, there are many differences between drive/driven gears on the ax4s/ax4n transaxles. https://www.atsg.us/atsg/skin/frontend/default/atsg/corrections/01redpg19.pdf AX4N was later called 4F50N... Simply it will depend on the engine size, model year and lots of luck.

what make and year will interchange with 96 explorer 4 0 4x4 http://www.aras360.com/Pdf/resources/Sister-Clones-List.pdf Get a Haynes/Chilton's and determine the model of the transmission - then any vehicle that uses that transmission can interchange.

I agree with the first post. Checking fuses and fluid level are first. If the vehicle still has shifting problems its time to drop the pan and valve body. You will have a blown valve body gasket. Also the EPC solenoid has probably gone bad. it may check properly for ohms, but there is an armature in the solenoid that can break. Then the valve doesn't work at all. Depending on what you see on the magnet in the pan will tell you if the trany needs to be opened up. Some things to think about. Most valve body parts are metal and not prone to wearing out. they just get dirty. If there is just a bit of sludge in the pan( no metal shavings or pieces) then replacing the VB gasket and bad solenoids will help for a while, but there is still a lot of gunk in the rest of the transmission. The cooler, the torque converter and the transmission itself. To make a long story short if your having valve body problems and have to drop it then you might as well pull the whole transmission and do an inspection. Replace any broken or worn parts then clean everything thoroughly. dirt is a trannys worst enemy. The pistons in the clutches will be full of gunk too. Also a new torque converter should be installed if you pull the tranny. Basically if a transmission is having problems the way to do the job right and get the most miles out of your rebuild is to pull it, diagnose it, and clean it completly. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/louis_03c793f49b118a83

u have a solenoid problem on the transmission, needs to be overhauled

This is a vague questions without stating the year/make/model. There are several things that could be the culprit. The easiest to check is fluid level; without fluid, the valves cannot build pressure to ingage the bands inside the transmission. A clogged or dirty filter would be the next easiest culprit - how long has it been since you changed the fluid and filter? Mileage is the other simple issue; it may just be worn out. A transmission is full of moving and/or wearing parts. It is possible that it can't be fixed. Any other issue you will not be able to diagnose on your own, but there is possibility you can fix it... if it has a sticky/dirty valve-body (the part that engages the clutches), you may be able to clean it for about $12. Go to the parts house or department store and purchase a bottle of "Trans-X" in the silver bottle with the blue lable - NOT the black bottle with the yellow label. Also avoid Lucas or any other "thick" fluid. This Trans-x is a solvent/cleaner just for gummed up transmission parts. Put the Trans-X in the transmission, put it in drive w/ the brake and/or e-brake applied and run the car. If it is a sticky valve-body, it should clear up and start to pull within the first 5 minutes or so. If it does start working, drive it for about 50 or so miles to clean everything, then change the fluid and filter. If the above did not fix it, you are destined for professional help. You either need a new valve body, pump, rebuild, another transmission, or maybe another car depending on what vehicle you have (depends on what it's worth). Hope this helps! -Scott Euro Parts Plus

So you wanting a 5.4 V8 into a transit.

You might try a tranny service, but in all likelyhood you've burned the bands on the 1st gear. What it was doing, "jerking and high rpm on shift" used to be known as "slipping."

If the bellhousing from one can be put on the other, in theory, it should work. Just keep in mind that the torque horsepower of the 300 6 could totally splatter the 5 speed out of that flyweight Ranger.

It looks like the drive shaft/train needs replacement. Normally the front wheel drive cars have the drive shaft in the front.

Check this site for a similar issue..may help 2001 Escape automatic transmission stuck in reverse

check the owners manual. that may be a safety feature.

If you can reagust the reverse band it may be ok but you will need to find the nut to do it ,or go to a good trans man to do it.

it means over drive is not engaging

CHECK ALTERNATOR REGULATOR

Most diagrams can be found at your Ford Dealers parts department. The parts counter person can print out schematics for all Fords that come up on his screen. Just designate the specifics you need. They do not have repairs suggestions or help.

here it is, the red one. only check the transmission fluid level with the engine running, in park and on a level surface. the low level mark on the dipstick indicates the fluid level is one half quart low. do not over fill the transmission fluid or damage may occur

Possible causes of OBD code P0701 - Open or short transmission control system circuit - Poor transmission control system electrical connection - Check powers and grounds to Transmission Control Module (TCM)

a fairly simple job but there are a few points to cover to do the job properly. No1 DONT buy cheap pads. They will throw black dust everywhere, they do not dissipate heat well and will damage your rotors which are more expensive than pads. Also you can feel the difference, the more expensive pads do stop better but they also help you apply a more progressive and even pressure resulting in smoother braking. Once you have the vehicle off the ground and safely secure with the wheels off, you will notice the 'caliper' can be removed from the mounting bracket by removing the bolts (13mm or 1/2")from the 'sliders' (located on the top left and right). You must hold the large inside bolt (near the dust rubber) with a large spanner (17mm or 3/4") Pry the caliper from the rotor and mounting bracket. Pull the slider pins from the mounting bracket, clean and re-grease slider pin and guide hole and replace using high temp grease. Check condition of all dust rubbers and seals, (there should be no sign of leaking fluid or holes where dust can enter), clean dirt from the the tin angle pad anti-rattle guides. Push the caliper pistons all the way in using an old pad and a 'G' clamp or similar. To make the job very professional there is a silicon type substance that can be applied to the pistons where they contact the new pads, this will stop 'pad rattle and squeal', but is not totally necessary. Position the new pads in the bracket against the rotor, put the caliper in place and replace the slider retaining bolts remembering to stop the inner bolt from turning. Pump the brake pedal to push the pads against the rotors and replace the wheels. With any brake work always test drive, Before moving off make sure pedal is high and hard, move a little and ease the brakes to ensure they stop without making any nasty sound. Stop the car 2 or 3 times from a 'walking pace' and if all is good continue to 'bed' the brakes in by doing several light stops from a low speed (speed limit). Congrats! Job well done!